How small a room before drum sander is not worth it?

Thanks for the replies everyone. To clarify again, I have done this before and I know how to sand a floor. I've done this a number of times and in this specific instance I am looking to completely remove the varnish.

I understand that you can key a varnish floor to re-coat. Not sure if this would have worked well in this case as there were a lot and some very deep scratches, but regardless I have completely removed and applied a wax oil finish in the other rooms so it makes sense that I do the same in this one. I personally find it to be a more forgiving and natural finish than the varnish.

I've successfully used a hired upright drum sander and a DIY level belt sander in the past and they both have their pros and cons. My question was really only to ask people who have done this before about their opinions on what size of room is big enough to make it worth hiring an upright, drum type sander as I was swithering on this. Obviously if it was a 1x1m cupboard I'd just be using the belt sander and if it was a 4x6m open room I'd be hiring, but there is a tipping point somewhere in between.

My memory of using the upright was that it was fine on the long straight sections, but I spent more time on all of the edges and recesses and it took off a lot more wood. When I used the belt sander I could get in nearly everywhere, better control, less wood removal, but a hellish slog in the bigger sections.
 
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Poster #15,
My post #14 was obviously intended for you but I made a mistake by referring it to the OP.
But instead of proving your off the page claims you dodge attempting to answer by presenting after the fact information from me and the OP as though you have provided the info in the first place.
After claiming forty years experience you unfortunately appear to be confused?
 
Poster #15,
My post #14 was obviously intended for you but I made a mistake by referring it to the OP.
But instead of proving your off the page claims you dodge attempting to answer by presenting after the fact information from me and the OP as though you have provided the info in the first place.
After claiming forty years experience you unfortunately appear to be confused?
You're not making sense.
I told the op that he needs to remove all varnish, so an orbital sander will not be the appropriate tool.

Then, for future reference and to avoid people getting confused by your post, I explained when a key is appropriate for recoating.
In this last scenario, an orbital sander is the appropriate tool to use.
I hope that's clear to everyone.
If not, this is the schematic:

Original coat=varnish -> new coat = varnish -> provide a key without removing all varnish

Original coat=varnish -> new coat = hardwax -> remove all varnish
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. To clarify again, I have done this before and I know how to sand a floor. I've done this a number of times and in this specific instance I am looking to completely remove the varnish.

I understand that you can key a varnish floor to re-coat. Not sure if this would have worked well in this case as there were a lot and some very deep scratches, but regardless I have completely removed and applied a wax oil finish in the other rooms so it makes sense that I do the same in this one. I personally find it to be a more forgiving and natural finish than the varnish.

I've successfully used a hired upright drum sander and a DIY level belt sander in the past and they both have their pros and cons. My question was really only to ask people who have done this before about their opinions on what size of room is big enough to make it worth hiring an upright, drum type sander as I was swithering on this. Obviously if it was a 1x1m cupboard I'd just be using the belt sander and if it was a 4x6m open room I'd be hiring, but there is a tipping point somewhere in between.

My memory of using the upright was that it was fine on the long straight sections, but I spent more time on all of the edges and recesses and it took off a lot more wood. When I used the belt sander I could get in nearly everywhere, better control, less wood removal, but a hellish slog in the bigger sections.
Yes I agree with you if you are not careful with the drum things you can dig a hole. Like I said - in case you missed it I have done a similar size room very well with a DIY planer, take the skirting off and you can get close enough to the wall so that when skirting is back you do not see the untouched edge..
Or maybe just hire the floor edger that you probably also hired with the drum machine.
The idea of an orbital sander not being appropriate is that it will take you forever and a day.
 
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Poster #18,
All your after-the-fact claims cant put back together again your apparent 40yrs of bewilderment?
And please dont get so worked up, after all its only an advice site.
I'll leave this thread now.
 
Yes I agree with you if you are not careful with the drum things you can dig a hole. Like I said - in case you missed it I have done a similar size room very well with a DIY planer, take the skirting off and you can get close enough to the wall so that when skirting is back you do not see the untouched edge..
Or maybe just hire the floor edger that you probably also hired with the drum machine.
The idea of an orbital sander not being appropriate is that it will take you forever and a day.
I did see that earlier, that's interesting, you mean like one of those electric planers, about £50-60 ish. I've never used one of those. Does it pull the varnish off in strips? I suppose in theory it would likely be less mess than sanding if it did.

I agree about the orbital sander, I've used it before to finish off bits but would be there all day trying to take off varnish with it on a floor.
 
I did see that earlier, that's interesting, you mean like one of those electric planers, about £50-60 ish. I've never used one of those. Does it pull the varnish off in strips? I suppose in theory it would likely be less mess than sanding if it did.
Yep something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-ehp1050-4mm-electric-planer-220-240v/636fv

Mine is an old Bosch one that has a hateful rectangle dust/chippings exit (always gets clogged) that I made an adapter for but the one in the link has round exit holes easily connect a hover to and a very useful left or right option for it. Not saying this exact one so perhaps do some research. The blades are usually reversible for when they are worn - or more likely got a chip out of them from that nail head you missed, so I would also but a spare set of blades because if it gets chipped it will leave lines in the wood at the chip.

At tip using one dont try to take too much off in one pass - probably not good for the unit but besides that the resulting chips will be bigger and more likely to get stuck in your hover pipe.
 
Poster #18,
All your after-the-fact claims cant put back together again your apparent 40yrs of bewilderment?
And please dont get so worked up, after all its only an advice site.
I'll leave this thread now.
Finally!
So other members won't get confused anymore.
 
Metabo LF850?


It will grind flush to the edge of the skirting.

I have never used one though.
 

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