How to add rawlplug on brick after going through plasterboard?
- Thread starter OM2
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I used these:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/setting-tool/12429 - must must must get.
Youtube videos will tell you, you can do without. I wouldn't recommend.
I bought mine from ebay.
www.screwfix.com
So... I wasn't sure what size was the correct one to use.
I just used one that I bought - I can't remember the size.
These things are amazing. Holes that you can screw into again is amazing.
I put up a wall to ceiling Ikea cupboard, where I had to cut an L shape at the top back because I had the kitchen fan output go through.
I think they'll be good to hold up an LCD TV - but please do your research on that before you try to hand something heavy. If the load is spread over many holes, then it should be OK I guess.
Hope that helps.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/setting-tool/12429 - must must must get.
Youtube videos will tell you, you can do without. I wouldn't recommend.
I bought mine from ebay.
Easyfix Hollow Wall Anchors 8-16mm M5 x 52mm 10 Pack - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Provides permanent threaded anchor in cavity walls. For use with setting tool. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
I just used one that I bought - I can't remember the size.
These things are amazing. Holes that you can screw into again is amazing.
I put up a wall to ceiling Ikea cupboard, where I had to cut an L shape at the top back because I had the kitchen fan output go through.
I think they'll be good to hold up an LCD TV - but please do your research on that before you try to hand something heavy. If the load is spread over many holes, then it should be OK I guess.
Hope that helps.
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I admit I have not read the whole thread, so someone might have suggested this: there are now fittings designed exactly for this. They consist of a long "rawl plug" which goes from the surface of the plaster board all the way into the brick or block behind. Then they have a metal tube which you hammer in and which supports the fitting where the screw goes past the air gap between the plasterboard and the wall. Then you can tighten the fitting which will support the load and not crush the plasterboard.
I cannot remember what they are called, or which manufacturer, but I am sure you will be able to find them when you find the right search word.
I cannot remember what they are called, or which manufacturer, but I am sure you will be able to find them when you find the right search word.
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Use 'corefix'. Superb fitting.
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So here's my unprofessional non qualified take on the suggested usage of those long screws:
- There's too much work involved.
- Drilling into the solid wall blindly isn't a joyous task. For you builder guys, you can do in your sleep, I guess.
- The cost of the screws and rawlplug was mega expensive for me.
- I needed screws that were 15cm+ in length. Or maybe more, I can't remember. You have to screw into the wall and get into the wall deep enough for the screw to hold (all being done blindly I repeat).
- For one screw - not a big thing. My first project was to put up some shelves - I needed like 40 holes in total. For me that would have been a few hours work!
The anchors were a perfect solution for me in the end.
I didn't go for the shelves... I went for a wall to wall Ikea shelf - fortunately, it was the exact fitting I needed.
If hanging heavy objects... I guess you need to drill through to the solid wall.
Else, give the anchors a thought.
- There's too much work involved.
- Drilling into the solid wall blindly isn't a joyous task. For you builder guys, you can do in your sleep, I guess.
- The cost of the screws and rawlplug was mega expensive for me.
- I needed screws that were 15cm+ in length. Or maybe more, I can't remember. You have to screw into the wall and get into the wall deep enough for the screw to hold (all being done blindly I repeat).
- For one screw - not a big thing. My first project was to put up some shelves - I needed like 40 holes in total. For me that would have been a few hours work!
The anchors were a perfect solution for me in the end.
I didn't go for the shelves... I went for a wall to wall Ikea shelf - fortunately, it was the exact fitting I needed.
If hanging heavy objects... I guess you need to drill through to the solid wall.
Else, give the anchors a thought.
Thank you Koolpc, those are the exact ones I was thinking of !
As far as OM2;
Too much work involved ? Just one drill bit through the plasterboard and into the wall to the appropriate depth. Then simply tap the plastic part in, tap the metal sleeve in, and screw in the screw. No more work than any other plasterboard fitting, and much more secure for loads such as shelving etc.. (This assumes you have a decent hammer drill of course).
Some plasterboard fittings are too deep for the gap, so one needs to drill through into the wall anyway to clear them.
40 holes ! How many shelves were you fitting ?
As far as OM2;
Too much work involved ? Just one drill bit through the plasterboard and into the wall to the appropriate depth. Then simply tap the plastic part in, tap the metal sleeve in, and screw in the screw. No more work than any other plasterboard fitting, and much more secure for loads such as shelving etc.. (This assumes you have a decent hammer drill of course).
Some plasterboard fittings are too deep for the gap, so one needs to drill through into the wall anyway to clear them.
40 holes ! How many shelves were you fitting ?
About 8 -10 shelves. Was meant to go from near bottom to nearly ceiling.
Too much bother for me!
I'd recommend going on your advice though.
Thank you chaps,
I am hitting the brick after a massive 80mm, 8 flipping cm! it's obscene. Totally the wrong kind of boards for this task IMO. So naturally I need a screw which is going to go at least 40mm into the brick to provide any kind of security. 80mm of plaster board, foam and air + 40mm. That's a 120mm long screw with plug that I need. M10s are very common for this but M6 are not available on either TS or SF. Nothing on Amazon either, but finally found someone selling the M6s I need (These particular shelve mounts can't take anything bigger than an M6 unfortunately).
This is what I ordered. Waiting for delivery, will report back. Thanks!
I am hitting the brick after a massive 80mm, 8 flipping cm! it's obscene. Totally the wrong kind of boards for this task IMO. So naturally I need a screw which is going to go at least 40mm into the brick to provide any kind of security. 80mm of plaster board, foam and air + 40mm. That's a 120mm long screw with plug that I need. M10s are very common for this but M6 are not available on either TS or SF. Nothing on Amazon either, but finally found someone selling the M6s I need (These particular shelve mounts can't take anything bigger than an M6 unfortunately).
This is what I ordered. Waiting for delivery, will report back. Thanks!
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The
They look good, just too big (thick) for my precise shelf mounts. I can't find anything less than M10. No doubt will have other things to fix to the walls in the future. Will keep them in mind.
D
Deleted member 174758
Just whst do you nean by an M6 or an M10? Those are metric bolt sizes - wood screws are just stated as the diameter of the shank or sometimes the old British screw gauge. So a 6.0mm screw would be a #12 in old money, and those work with brown (7mm) masonry plugs and the ForgeFast ones sold by Tolststion certsinly go up to 6.0 x 150mm. I believe they make them up to 250mm long. 5.0mm (#10 in old money) screws are generally available up to about 125mm (from people like Spax snd Reisser), but the smaller the screw shsnk, the shorter will be the maximum screw length. 10.0mm screws are coach screws and are massive
That means if your shelf brackets will only take smaller screws you may need to find snother approach, such ss drywall fixings, installing s timber or MDF pattress (using longer, larger screws) and fixing the shelf to that or cutting out a section of plasterboard, installing a pattress then making good the wall
Agreed, could've got 'em off Amazon same or next day delivery.
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