Hi i need to put a plastic Y connector to a clay pipe,my problem is getting access to the pipe in order to cut it ,as it has thick concrete on one side and on top.My concern is that when trying to break up the concrete i will break the pipe underneath.Any suggestions?
how to break up concrete with clay pipe underneath
- Thread starter highbury44
- Start date
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R
RedHerring2
I assume you are talking about pipe encased in concrete.
In which case, I'm sure that you will break the pipe.
How far do you need to go back to find pipe that is not encased in concrete?
In which case, I'm sure that you will break the pipe.
How far do you need to go back to find pipe that is not encased in concrete?
unfortunately the pipe is covered in concrete all the way to the manhole cover as its underneath a concrete path.I suppose my only option is to replace the whole pipe back to the manhole cover 
R
RedHerring2
As far as I know, that's your only option, but others might know of a work-around.
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It is possible to pick away at the concrete in order to expose enough pipe to be cut.
However this will depend upon the strength of the concrete, the depth at which you are working, your skill and the age of the pipe.
It is probably best to try and tease away the material at the sides without actually undermining the pipe as this will allow it to be able to drop. Next pick away at the top but in shear as opposed to direct downwards hammering.
If it is old salt glaze then you need to be either well away from any joints, i.e. in the middle of a pipe run or right on a 'male' joint end. Being close to a joint is risky.
You will need to be very patient and have some sharp chisels about. We can tame our breaker down so that the hammer action is reduced for this kind of work, although the finer work has to be done by hand.
However this will depend upon the strength of the concrete, the depth at which you are working, your skill and the age of the pipe.
It is probably best to try and tease away the material at the sides without actually undermining the pipe as this will allow it to be able to drop. Next pick away at the top but in shear as opposed to direct downwards hammering.
If it is old salt glaze then you need to be either well away from any joints, i.e. in the middle of a pipe run or right on a 'male' joint end. Being close to a joint is risky.
You will need to be very patient and have some sharp chisels about. We can tame our breaker down so that the hammer action is reduced for this kind of work, although the finer work has to be done by hand.
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