How to build a roof

[ace]

Mick,

That drawing is a little confusing.

If you get time over the weekend take some measurements to the outside of the wallplates you have put on.

Just add some sizes to the sketch I posted

 

[Mick Leek]

Hi Ace,

Is there any way i can contact you ? i can send you pdf's of various roof images including the one like you suggested?

with your contact details and i will either call you or talk via MSN if you are a member.

Thanks

Mick.

 

[Mick Leek]

Ok folks,

Took a picture this morning of the wall plates.

As you can see the brickwork above is pretty level so thats why i never used compo... will this be ok ? or should i start again ? I know i should have used 4x3 instead of 4x2 but can i get away with what i have done or not ?

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/wallplate1.jpg
www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/wallplate2.jpg

here are the full plans also

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/RevCRegs(2).pdf
www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/rafterandelevs.pdf

cheers all who have helped to date. Especially Dave.

 

[Mr Winston]

Hi Mick

has your bco been around since you finished the blockwork/installed the wall plate and passed the walls?

I ask because the course below the plate is brick. It should all be thermal block. If your BCO spots it he may ask you to change it so best to check first. Current regs doesnt allow brick in the thermal wall.

The blockwork and wall insulation combine to make up the u-value of the wall to reduce heat loss.

As youve used brickwork at the wall plate level this will be a cold bridge and will be the weakest part of your extension in terms of heat loss and you may suffer condensations mould type effects here.

Just trying to pre-empt any problems for you with the bco

 

[Mick Leek]

Hi.

No hasnt seen that. I thought it was a good idea to level up the blockwork with a course of bricks.. oh well i have to do the wall plate again so i will knock them off... thanks for letting me know on that one....

I was told these are classed as "Pad stones" to take the weight of the rafters... well thats what someone told me.

how do i close the cvity by the way? i notice it says this on the plans. I was told to use a fibre board ? i presume i just drill and srew that to the outer cavityto close it ?

Thanks Mr Winston...

 

[Mick Leek]

Hi.

No hasnt seen that. I thought it was a good idea to level up the blockwork with a course of bricks.. oh well i have to do the wall plate again so i will knock them off... thanks for letting me know on that one....

I was told these are classed as "Pad stones" to take the weight of the rafters... well thats what someone told me.

how do i close the cvity by the way? i notice it says this on the plans. I was told to use a fibre board ? i presume i just drill and srew that to the outer cavity to close it ?

Thanks Mr Winston...

 

[Mr Winston]

from your plans i can see that youve got a partial fill cavity (50mm celotex + 50mm clear cavity).

I would use something like a masterboard or supalux board to close the cavity with the roof insulation quilt butted up to it.





from your plans i can see that youve got a partial fill cavity (50mm celotex + 50mm clear cavity).

I would use something like a masterboard or supalux board to close the cavity with the roof insulation quilt butted up to it.

 

[Mick Leek]

Hi All,

Bet your getting fed up with me now

ok i had a guy look at the plans. he said that the ones already posted on here have varying pitch angles and it wouldnt work.

So i have spoke to the designer AGAIN, and he has now come up with an idea.

One main concern that people seem to mention a lot is that the front wall plate will be considerably higher than the side one.. I presume this is necessary to form the extended eves ove the bay window ?

Anyway,

Please take a look at the new plan and let me know.....

Thanks to all

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/newroof2.pdf

 

[masona]

Mark,

Have you tried finding out how much the truss frame are? They do all the hard working out for you!

Try here for online quote to give you some idea.

I saved ££££ using truss frame instead of making it and it's quicker or you could have it fitted by them.

 

[Mick Leek]

Yes i tried a company called Truss Form near Burnley Lancs

They came back with a price of around £500 plus vat BUT they were only manufactured in 3x2

My specs say 6x2 ?

Confussed by this as the building inspectors have said 6x2 because of the shallow pitch (16 deg)

 

[masona]

3"x2" size is correct for gang nailed plate.

I'm surprised with the building inspector because the truss frame have to take into the account of weight calculation and stress load so therefore they have to follow building regulations.

Have a chat with the truss frame company and you can ask for the calculation sheets & give it to the BCO, so can't see how they can say no!

The price is very good and no way you can do it cheaper as it's already made up.

Your specs say 6"x2" because it's may not be for truss frame.

 

[Mick Leek]

Sorry, think we have got crossed wires. The BCO hasnt seen the plans for the trusses. It was just something i noticed, the fact that they were a lot smaller with regards the wood to be used.

I cant understand why my Designer and structual guy would say 6x2 yet a truss company only specify 3x2 Is it cause the trusses have braces and not just one long piece of wood ?,


am i correct in assuming that the bottom bits will sit on holes knocked into the wall ? I cant see how a wall plate would be hidden if used to rest the bottom bits on as i assume theses are used for the ceillings and the plaster board nailled to them ?

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/1.pdf

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/2.pdf

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/3.pdf

 

[Mr Winston]

Im sure youve noticed (but incase you havent)

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/3.pdf

from the truss company is different to

www.phenomenalfireworks.co.uk/images/newroof2.pdf

the valley is gone and you now have an overhang outside the utility. Be sure to clear this change with the Planning Dept before you order the trusses

With regard to the roof trusses being 3x2 - all the struts and bracing in the truss design do help to reduce the size of the timbers required.

It also means that you wont be able to chop out any of the truss in the future as that would destroy its strength. (ie if you wanted storage up there) But with the low pitch you would never of had much room with a cut roof anyway so not a major consideration.

Your BCO probably doesnet know your thinking of going down the Truss route rather than cut roof hence hes saying 6x2.

 

[Mick Leek]

Yes the roof design has now been changed 4 times Had that many suggestions my head is now battered.

Submitted all plans and revisions to BCO and planning, I think they have got fed up and have said " well were not bothered what the roof looks like so long as we can inspect before you felt and batton it.

I also asked with regards the line of bricks under the wall plate. He mentioned "patination" ?? What ever that is, but said he doesnt have a problem with it at all.

Been talking to Ace (Forum Member) extensivly over the last week or so and i think we have now come up with a plan of action with a little help from his triganomaty skills and experiance of working on cut roofs for a few years, It looks as if we are going to use Revision C or was it D Anyway, going back to the 3 hips and a valley and doing all the cutting on site... makes for more fun and a stronger roof..