How to correct water not running into eaves support tray?

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I have a problem with water pooling on the breathable membrane (marked on pic) and not flowing into the eaves support tray and into the gutter

Can I get some advise on what I need to do in order to correct this issue?

Potentially it seems like the UPVC Facia board is too high, so this could be preventing the slope.

The first course of tiles sits on the batten pictured and the end sits on the facia board.

The property is a mid-terrace, so I have neighbours on either side side with the tiles adjoined
 

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you could start by fitting the trays correctly.. nice underlay btw
I haven't nailed the eave support tray because with the 'dry run', I could see that that the water was not running to the gutter.

It just pools in the marked area.

What do I need to do to rectify this?

Thought you'd like the membrane, I believe I saw you recommend it.
 
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try fitting one
I fit the eave support tray and the water still pools.

What do i need to do?

The membrane will be cut back before installing the tile.
 

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Could I get a little help from the forum please?
 
Is the eaves support tray a red herring - wouldn't the membrane pool water if just sitting on top of the fascia?

If so then the fascia is too high. Looks that way to me from that first photo.
 
On the other hand the membrane is only there as a last resort if rain gets blown under the tiles and what will happen is the membrane will pool until its deep enough to run off and with the tray support there is no chance of the pool dropping down int to soffit area
 
You need to use timber kickers on the side of the rafters to increase the angle at the eaves, and possibly noggins to hold the tray up in-between the rafters.
 
Is the eaves support tray a red herring - wouldn't the membrane pool water if just sitting on top of the fascia?

If so then the fascia is too high. Looks that way to me from that first photo.
Thank you.

Lowering the fascia board would definitely help provide an adequate fall for water to run off.

To lower the fascia would you remove the gutter and replace the UPVC fascia (for one not as tall) or would you use something like an multi-tool to cut it?

You need to use timber kickers on the side of the rafters to increase the angle at the eaves, and possibly noggins to hold the tray up in-between the rafters.
Thanks woody.

Do you have an image or a link to timber kickers? I did a search and also called the local timber merchant and they hadn't a clue
 
A multi tool with me a right mess I think. So yes to lower it you would have to remove it and replace with a lower one - I think they size every 25mm, I was in a building plastics supplier the other day and was looking for some.
Unless anyone knows a trick to remove ring shanked polytops then the facia will be damaged getting it off.

Or if you have one you could perhaps plane it in place.
When I have fitted upvc facia I have used thin screws to first line it up and make sure its all good, I then remove the screws one by one and replace in the same hole with polytops
 
A multi tool with me a right mess I think. So yes to lower it you would have to remove it and replace with a lower one - I think they size every 25mm, I was in a building plastics supplier the other day and was looking for some.
Unless anyone knows a trick to remove ring shanked polytops then the facia will be damaged getting it off.
I agree, it could be messy.

Interestingly, this guy on Youtube appears to have used his multitool to lower a fascia board to correct the same issue i have.

Youtube Video
Or if you have one you could perhaps plane it in place.
I do have an cordless planer. Would never have thought to use this.

Will do a test run, just in case the plastic pieces start melting/causing problems with the planer.

When I have fitted upvc facia I have used thin screws to first line it up and make sure its all good, I then remove the screws one by one and replace in the same hole with polytops
Thanks for this tip. Very helpful.
 
I've sliced 10mm off a fascia with a multitool, needs slow speed or it melts and re-sticks. Took about 10 minutes to do 5m. Tack a batten on as a guide.
You need to be careful lowering the fascia as the bottom row of tiles will "droop". I've seen quite a few like this, presumably non roofers encountering what you have, but I doubt a carefully judged amount would be an issue.
 
Kickers sounds like a better idea than cutting it.

Lots of roofs are like this, where the bottom few rows of tiles are at a shallower angle.

It depends what the rest of it looks like.
 

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