How to correct water not running into eaves support tray?

I've sliced 10mm off a fascia with a multitool, needs slow speed or it melts and re-sticks. Took about 10 minutes to do 5m. Tack a batten on as a guide.
You need to be careful lowering the fascia as the bottom row of tiles will "droop". I've seen quite a few like this, presumably non roofers encountering what you have, but I doubt a carefully judged amount would be an issue.
If i lower the fascia, i am almost certain that the first row of tiles will no longer interlock with the tiles on my neighbours.

What is the disadvantage of the tile drooping?

Kickers sounds like a better idea than cutting it.
What do kickers look like? Where do i buy it from? Or do i have to cut/make them?

I have asked my local timber merchants and they don't know what this is either.
 
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Although concrete roof tiles are rigid, roofs are never even/"flat"/plumb so tiles will forgive a reasonable amount of misalignment and still work - the trick is to blend it all in. Packing low bits (kickers are just bits of (usually tapered) packings), trimming high bits, sometimes knocking a bit of the back of the tile etc.

Most terraced roofs dip in the middle so if your fascia is straight it'll be relatively higher towards the middle - trim it to match the roof profile - less at the sides where it can rise up to the party wall.

I used a bonding gutter to sort the join with the neighbour - again you sometimes have to play with the battens and tiles to get this looking ok.

I had to trim my fascia (semi detached) because I fixed it level but the entire house/roof ran downhill by about 15mm from side to side so the tiles just wouldn't sit flat until I tapered it, unfortunately the taper was exaggerated by the fact that the gutter had to fall the other way and I thought it would look awful but you couldn't tell from the ground.

The drooping tile thing just looks wrong, I'm not a roofer but would imagine if it's too much the tile above won't be sitting on in correctly. It shouldn't be an issue for you - you only need to adjust your fascia (or felt/trays height at the top a bit) or combination of the two by a small amount to allow what looks like a fairly shallow puddle to drain. However to do it, make sure you maintain the sag of the felt and trays between the rafters to keep the water away from them.
 
Although concrete roof tiles are rigid, roofs are never even/"flat"/plumb so tiles will forgive a reasonable amount of misalignment and still work - the trick is to blend it all in. Packing low bits (kickers are just bits of (usually tapered) packings), trimming high bits, sometimes knocking a bit of the back of the tile etc.

Most terraced roofs dip in the middle so if your fascia is straight it'll be relatively higher towards the middle - trim it to match the roof profile - less at the sides where it can rise up to the party wall.

I used a bonding gutter to sort the join with the neighbour - again you sometimes have to play with the battens and tiles to get this looking ok.

I had to trim my fascia (semi detached) because I fixed it level but the entire house/roof ran downhill by about 15mm from side to side so the tiles just wouldn't sit flat until I tapered it, unfortunately the taper was exaggerated by the fact that the gutter had to fall the other way and I thought it would look awful but you couldn't tell from the ground.

The drooping tile thing just looks wrong, I'm not a roofer but would imagine if it's too much the tile above won't be sitting on in correctly. It shouldn't be an issue for you - you only need to adjust your fascia (or felt/trays height at the top a bit) or combination of the two by a small amount to allow what looks like a fairly shallow puddle to drain. However to do it, make sure you maintain the sag of the felt and trays between the rafters to keep the water away from them.
That's awesome. Thank you for so much for this.

Plenty of food for thought and I agree tile drooping is not astatically pleasing, so trying to avoid this.

Yes, it's a shallow puddle, so just need to raise the rear of the support tray just a tad. Will get this done.
 
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Hang on a minute... is that support tray even in right?

I've put a purple arrow where the fascia should be.

The battens should nail through it. You need to take the bottom batten off and re-fit.

EST.jpg
 
I'm assuming it's small (e.g. clay Rosemary or similar) tiles from the short distance from the fascia to that batten.

In which case the batten will have to be nailed through it. Or the tray shortened, in which case it will be likely to fall out.
 
I'm assuming it's small (e.g. clay Rosemary or similar) tiles
Oh right. So why did you post this....

The battens should nail through it. You need to take the bottom batten off and re-fit.
....without any consideration as to what tile the OP is using.

To a roofer, it looks like he's using concrete interlocking tiles. Therefore your post is bad advice, misleading and should be ignored. It was only when I posted a shock emoji, that you started to back-peddle.
 
Clearly you have an agenda and something of an attitude to lots of others. Some kind of weird top-dog thing going on. "To a roofer", jeez. It's just a forum, not Cell Block H. Let's keep things factual, you're not helping anyone here. I'd suggest you try the same, I'm sure there's a nice person somewhere beneath your stroppy tone just dying to get out.

On what grounds do you think concrete tiles? That batten distance suggests the exact opposite. The fact that the tray isn't inserted fully suggests that it's bumped into the batten. There definitely isn't space for a tray below that batten.

This is exactly the scenario I had with my roof. I attempted to retro-fit trays, encountered this issue and cut them down. Then had it re-roofed later, the roofer chucked away all my chopped down ones, put new ones in and nailed the bottom batten through them. All nice and flat, all held nicely in place.
 
What do kickers look like? Where do i buy it from? Or do i have to cut/make them?

Either cut some timber to fit on top of each rafter, or fit a piece to the side of the rafter. Plus a noggin between rafters to hold the back edge of the tray.

foto_no_exif (11).jpg
 

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