How to deal with raised floor after tiling

[vinn]

Its implied that the OP is taking care of the T&G boards.
The floor in the pics is in excellent condition its "solid and flat apart from a few areas".

Tiling on to T&G using flexi adhesive has been a standby method in plenty of jobs that I've done or been aware of. "absolutely" no call backs so far. And always installed on the customer's say so.

There could be other "problems cutting around the WC pan" besides a later exchange footprint but the call is down to the OP.

 

[terryplumb]

vinn I take my hat off to you ,you have taken no notice of the adhesive manufacturers recommendations and guidelines and have not had any clients comebacks. what good fortune you enjoy.keep up the good work.

 

[vinn]

You have previously posted in a number of the forums, & your posts range from an obvious lack of practical experience to plain wrong.
Whatever you consider yourself to be, all you present on here is the appearance of a confused googler.

FWIW: the method I described has been used by professional installers for quite some time.
Circumstances often dictate the details of the installation - if you wish to enter the trades you would do well to remember that.

Further, some years ago I watched an Ardex trouble shooter/technician demonstrate the use of flexi materials on T&G boards.

 

[hexdex]

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate your time and advice. In that case 12mm ply it is then. I will be using flex8ble adhesive and grout for sure yes. Looks like another fortune on screws then. My last job was a very large decking area where I got through 1200 screws!

As for the toilet, just how long from setting the tiles before I could fix the loo in place? I was thinking 24 hours at the very least.

Thanks again

 

[vinn]

You can use quick setting adhesive but normal powdered adhesive will usually set up in a few hours - good enough to walk on.
Grout only the WC footprint, fix the WC - and grout the rest of the floor the day after.

 

[Nige F]

I take my hat off to you ,you have taken no notice of the adhesive manufacturers recommendations and guidelines and have not had any clients comebacks. what good fortune you enjoy.keep up the good work.

You must use the Papal "We"when addressing his omnipotence.

 

[motorbiking]

There is a really good waterproof board that you can fix to the boards it is no more than 10mm thick and has a hard polyfoam core. It help stop tiles cracking

On one of my bathrooms the builder used 12mm ply and foam board so i made up a threshold out of a strip of oak, which covers the drop nicely.

 

[chappers]

Those boards look to be in excellent condition and really flat, make sure they are fixed down firmly.
12mm ply is unnecessary, either use 6mm screwed at 150mm centres or better still 6mm cement board,screwed and glued with tile adhesive, something like tilemaster trade flexi.
Then tile over with a flexi adhesive such as Bal fastflex or tilemaster ultimate. as for the toilet I would remove it and tile under both adhesives mentioned can be walked on within around 4 hours.
I presume that there is some argument about tiling directly over the floorboards.(I don't see vinn's posts anymore) not sure I would be confident myself but both Bal and Tilemaster say their S2 flexible adhesives can be used straight over T&G floorboards

 

[hexdex]

Thanks Chappers. Whatever ply I use, I presume it has to be marine ply? There is a considerable cost saving to be had with other grades!

 

[chappers]

nah waste of the extra money just plain old WBP

 

[vinn]

WBP used to have a slight meaning with ref. to the glue not the ply.
Nowadays its simply a Building Supplies rip off term.
Basic CDX construction ply is all thats needed.

OP (& any other readers),
be cautious about relying on the user name chappers - he claims that he doesnt "see my posts" although he seems to spend much time copying bits of what I've advised, often word for word.
Nothing wrong with that but unfortunately he often gets the info wrong - probably because he's "not seeing my post" or more likely, not understanding what he's copying (but hopefully he'll learn).

 

[hexdex]

Thank you vinn.

 

[Happyplumber]

Ditra matting

 

[chris_o]

Why is everyone recommending ply as an overlay over the t&g to tile on, when 6mm cement board glued and screwed is far superior?

All the people mentioning the use of ply don't even recommend sealing the underside and edges with sbr, which is crucial if you did decide to go down the ply route to try and eliminate moisture ingress and therefore movement of the board etc.

Ply is obviously a natural timber product, therefore it expands and contracts over time due to moisture content/ temperature. This is obviously not a great substrate for tiles, even if you use a flexible adhesive. By all means you can get lucky and it could last years, but it could also fail a year down the line, and I have in fact had to replace a couple of fairly new floors completed in this manner.

Heavily screw your t&g down (obviously watching out for cables/pipes) and sbr the floor. Wait until this has dried, then, using a flexbile cement based adhesive, comb the floor(as you would when you tile) to get full coverage and fix your 6mm cement board on to this being sure to stagger the joins. When this has dried pilot hole with a small drill bit and mechanically fix the boards using screws and small washers. You are then good to go with your tiling. Cement boards are stable, they will not expand/ contract like ply does, and therefore it is a far superior substrate to tile on to.

 

[vinn]

chris_o,
I'm not sure who the everyone in "Why is everyone recommending ply" is?
I mentioned "cement board is ... often used".
And that 12mm ply was "adequate" not necessary.
Neither was there a particular call to detail the prepping & fixing of any type of backing.