I would have wound some ptfe on to the thread of the essex flange as when they have been in a while & the rubber washers harden slightly its possible to get a weep along the thread
I'm just starting to plan the re-install of my powershower due to having to replace the last coupe of pumps over a three year period
I'm told a need to install an essex flange and that this will need to feed the hot supply to the pump. I saw your aticle and thought yep that the thing i need to do. reading the article I can't work out how you managed to get the brass inner connector into the cyclinder and hence the external washer and nut to hold into place. I would have thought that the hole drilled would have to be the size of the flange screw shaft and thus the inner sleve holding it into place for the outet nut to attach would need to be bigger than the hole so how did you get it through?
For the gravity loop I was going to fill the pipe with sand and seal both ends and then bend it round a drum after which i would cut off the ends and clean the pipe out.
I want my pump to be in the loft but the cold water tank feeding the gravity shower is only 50mm above the floor surface and I need to raise this to 600mm min.
I also understand that i need to put air vents on both the hot and the cold feeds out of the pump but it doesn't say ho high above the pump these should go and it also doesn't say if i can you the automatic type of air vents.
I'm tols a need a negative head pump and im looking at the Salamander ESP100.
I'm probably going to be doing similar and wondered the same thing but OP does say
The flange section in the star shape is designed so that you can manipulate it through the hole. Bend the split washer slightly and rotate it on the pipe so that it goes through to the rear of the cylinder, then stuff the rubber sealing washer through the hole just by squeezing it and pushing it through. Now tighten the nut as hard as you can by hand, then turn another 1/2 (max) with a spanner.
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