How to get a sign off

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Due to lack of funds, I have done all the wiring in the house (1st FIX) and will probably also do the 2nd FIX when the time comes (as the finances will only get worse, not better).

Can I get a registered electrician to inspect, test, do whatever he needs to do and sign off whatever needs to be signed off for building regs?
 
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The proper answer is no, as part of the sign off is signing to say the electrician designed the installation which they obviously haven't.

You'll need to ring round sparks in your local area you may find one willing to sign it off if they can still access it all but it's very much upto them.

Your only other option is to speak to your bco explain the situation and see if they'll accept an eicr as evidence the electrics are upto standard.
 
Or... you can play a trick and make up a story that an electrician has left you with an unfinished job.
Maybe you'll get a better chance of an electrician to check the wiring, connect it and sign it off.
That's given that everything is still exposed and visible.
 
What does building control say - as they are the only ones who can do any form of 'signing off' whatever that is.
 
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The question is why do you want the paperwork? You will one hopes inspect and test your work, so there is no danger, so why do you want the legal documents to say some one else has done the work?

When I came to sell my mothers house I could not find the paperwork, I knew all done above board, so asked council for replacements, told it would take 4 months, and would cost however long it took the council worker to find them. In other words go away the Part P registration of work is simply a tax.

This house I viewed the certificates, and thought Oh good, but the readings seemed a little low for such a large house, then found they only covered less than a third of the house.

So we have two documents, the installation certificate, which you do, and either a compliance certificate if done by a third party, or a completion certificate if done by the LABC. All they do is say we are satisfied that the person doing the work is likely to have done a good job.

The installation certificate you can down load blanks for free from the IET web site, so there is nothing stopping you filling them in. You sign to say you have designed the installation, and you have installed it, and also you have inspected and tested it. Some forms all grouped together with one signature, and some have three spaces to sign.

To me the form acts as a check list, you are less likely to miss testing any item when you are filling in the form, there are some items the form does seem to miss, volt drop needs you to either measure how much cable used, or measure the resistance, or measure the loop impedance, you know the limits 3% lights and 5% for rest, and you can calculate what that translates to, for example the ring final is considered to have a maximum of 106 meters.

If you can't work it out, you should not be doing the job, but the formula is in BS 7671 so not much of a problem. You need test instruments, there is no way you can measure 40 mS with a stop watch, so you need the RCD tester, that is likely the most expensive meter, you don't NEED a loop impedance meter, you can use a low ohm meter, with a minimum of 200 mA test current, and the insulation tester can be bought for £35 as can a clamp on meter to measure back ground leakage, voltage etc. I have not found a cheap low ohm meter, but I have one, so have not looked.

You can hire the test kit, although not cheap, as it has to be recalibrated after every hire, which bumps up the hire cost, I have hired when my own kit went for calibration, but for DIY you can measure some know resistor etc, which is likely good enough.

To get the completion certificate in Wales costs £100 plus vat for first £2000 worth of work, England each county can set fees, and you need to inform them before you start, I thought the builder installing my mothers wet room was doing things above board, so when he walked off, I told the LABC I was taking over the job, only to find the builder had not told the LABC, who pointed out in no uncertain terms it is the duty of the owner to ensure it's done.

Next hurdle was to convince the LABC my son and I had the skill, son had done it before with Liverpool and Chester councils with no problem, but Flintshire wanted to use a third party to test and inspect at my expense. It took some persuading, in the end my son said any inspector must of course be higher qualified than us, and my dad has a degree, at which point he did back down and allow us to test, but you can't untell the LABC, once involved that's it, had we know the builder had not informed them, likely we would have also kept quiet.

When I did find the documentation for my mothers house, I realised how daft it was, three installation certificates, and two compliance certificates and a completion certificate with very little to say which linked to what. Dates showed which had been done last, but it did not say if previous work had been re-done. During the re-wire the wet room and kitchen were not done, as it had already been done, but hard to work that out from paperwork.

If you make out the installation certificate, and simply say sorry don't know what happened to the completion certificate, it is unlikely anyone will try and get it from the LABC unless you kill some one. And if you do kill some one, the certificates will be the last of your worries.

If you don't have the skill or equipment to make out the installation certificate, then you should not be doing the work.
 
Thanks for all that.

Logic says that an electrician should be able to test and verify an existing electrical installation and provide a certificate? Old houses, existing houses, incomplete projects picking up years later etc. I would think this is a "standard" service they offer?

I have so far done 1st FIX, which is routing a myriad cables to all the rooms in the house to all the sockets and switches. All these cables are on the floor and will be covered over with insulation and screed, so it would be great to test them now. I was going to get the multimeter out to test for leaks or breakages, I did not know I had to inject a 200mA current though (the multimeter injects uA not mA)... Because there are so many cables I think it pays to pay an electrician to test all the cables I suppose. I wil ask him see what he says.
 
Logic says that an electrician should be able to test and verify an existing electrical installation
They can. You will get an EICR, electrical installation condition report. This describes an existing installation and whether it it suitable for continued use, or whether repairs or replacement is required.

However yours isn't an existing installation - it's a new one.
This requires details of the design, verification that the design has been followed, and an installation certificate to confirm all of that.
Testing is part of that, but so is confirming that the correct size and type of cables have been used, including where and how the cables are installed, what's connected to them and so on.

Additionally, new installations are notifiable to building control, and all of it must comply with all relevant parts of the Building Regulations, not just Part P. This includes things such as holes in structural items being in the correct places, openings through walls/ceilings and the like are properly sealed to prevent the spread of fire and passage of sound, lighting and associated controls that comply with Part L, and plenty more.

You need to speak to building control and find out what they want.
Having someone test some cables isn't going to be of much use here.
 
They have asked for this:

Any hot water storage tank installation certification.
Confirmation of drainage tests.
Any Gas Safe certification.
Electrical installer’s certification.

(Still pending to speak to the electrician ...)
 
As well as 200 mA for low ohm test, also 500 volt for insulation rest unless it will damage something then maybe reduced to 250 volt.

I was assuming you knew what you were doing, but it seems maybe you don't, the problem is to convince the LABC.

When I did inspections normally I would only test a sample, if no faults found, then I would record what sample had been tested, and would select a diffrent sample next time.

However if any faults found, then I would test all. I did commercial premises not domestic, but what you want is no faults to be found as if any faults found, then inspection will be more carefull.

The LABC may inspect themselves, or use a third party inspector, the latter they commission but you pay for, so less time he spends the cheaper for you, any faults mean extra visits, which in turn means it costs you more.

He reports to LABC and they decide if they let any faults go, or if a do it again and do it properly is result.
 
Well you can only sign off your own work if you are members of a scheme. Scheme members are not allowed to sign off other peoples works - that is fraud and criminal.
Having said that you might just find a member who is happy to do the work and let you do some of the heavy work under their direct supervision.
You could get someone to notify that they have checked your work if their scheme permits it as a third party certifier.
NICEIC (& ELECSA) will/would not allow it . NAPIT (and Stroma) would/did allow it but the scheme member would have to pay additional insurance cover amongst other things to be accepted as a third party certifier, otherwise not allowed.

Anyone competent may sign off the inspect and test bit only, providing they had enough of a supervision capacity to properly inspect your cable runs etc etc.
Anyone competent may produce an EICR (periodic) .
Neither of these two options alone would satisfy LABC.

You could could the whole job lot yourself and then ask LABC to regularise it.
Last I heard they added about 20% on then did not charge VAT so the cost was about the same as if you notified them before you started.

I think you had better take note of what FLAMEPORT has told you on this one
 
'Cables on the floor to be covered in insulation and screed' does not sound like a good idea. Cables in contact with some types of insulation (polystyrene mainly) will rot. You may have to derate your cables substantially if they run through insulation (like having to use 4mm for radials instead of 2.5).
Ducting would be a better idea. Or conduit. Or not burying cables under the floor.
 

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