How to put shelves for heavy items in plasterboard

[opps]

I saw some video online and the stick frame is called in that way, did I misunderstand?
In this video 2 minute tip-Fixing to plasterboard , where the plasterboard is attached, how is called if not stud?
This is how my house is made I believe... The survey also revealed the same, but they didn't drill anything .

The studs are the vertical timbers. The horizontal timbers are called noggins.

A stick is a thin part of a tree branch.

 

[hatTT]

The studs are the vertical timbers. The horizontal timbers are called noggins.

A stick is a thin part of a tree branch.

I don't know why it's called stick frame them, instead of timber frame...
From the point of view of working out a room, your statement makes sense, but the structure type is called everywhere as stick frame vs timber frame. (timber frame is one of those nice bulky piece of wood, more common in US for example, but not more present than stick frame which is easier and more DYI btw)

 

[hatTT]

Well, you are asking on a DIY site, so the advice up to now will have been provided with the assumption that you want to carry this out.

Anyone worth their salt who comes to fit a kitchen for you, will make sure the cupboards don't fall off the wall; don't need to spend 5 minutes on a DIY site acquiring just enough knowledge to be able to tell them how to do a tiny part of their job, and the project would probably proceed more smoothly if you avoided that approach

ok the kitchen was a bit off topic here, but still relevant

 

[blup]

Umbrella style fixings should work well on plasterboard, the weight of the cabinet is partly supported by the wall.

 

[robinbanks]

I don't know why it's called stick frame

I'd have said that was an Americanism

 

[hatTT]

Umbrella style fixings should work well on plasterboard, the weight of the cabinet is partly supported by the wall.

Do you mean this kind of concrete based wall? (the brick is the external part)

External Masonry Cavity Walls - Technical Detail

External Masonry Cavity Walls

www.knaufinsulation.co.uk

This is how my house is made as far as I know.

What I was trying to say before is that, apart the first image you see in that link, there is a stick frame structure in my knowledge, that is the real structure, whatever else is around is just for thermal insulation and sound isolation (wind for example).

Now, the way to attach things to the wall can be different, but it's all due to the weight to hold I believe.
So my doubt was how can I make sure to drill appropriately, after having checked that there is no water pipe etc behind the plasterboard.

If you need to do it for simple shelves, probably the plasterboard is enough, though it's better do not rely on it.
If I drill up to the concrete, then that would be in the case of kitchen shelves, or for heavy/many books but in that case I would simply buy a standing library to make it simple. It requires a decent driller and long screw guides.
Then I saw this video, I wonder if this is normal:

They didn't drill up to the concrete, but I wouldn't know if there is concrete behind or not, certainly they didn't care and I wonder why.
(Sorry for the basic video but I couldn't find a better one in a quick search)

Another doubt comes from why I didn't see someone drilling up to the concrete, but only on the wood stud/nogging... Is it not better to drill up to the concrete directly? In this way you can also avoid to miss partially the wood stud/nogging, which will just ruin it.

 

[blup]

You can drill into concrete directly but dot and dab plasterboard will have a gap, on which you can use a core fix plug or the hollow wall anchor type. If you drill a small hole and stick some wire through you will be able to gauge the thickness of the p/b and the depth of the gap which will give you the required dimensions to check against. A neodymium magnet will help identify any studs which you can screw direct into.

 

[hatTT]

You can drill into concrete directly but dot and dab plasterboard will have a gap, on which you can use a core fix plug or the hollow wall anchor type. If you drill a small hole and stick some wire through you will be able to gauge the thickness of the p/b and the depth of the gap which will give you the required dimensions to check against. A neodymium magnet will help identify any studs which you can screw direct into.

I'm aware of the gap, initially I thought that posing a screw guide between the plasterboard and the concrete was a good idea, but the distance may flex it, giving too much weight to the plasterboard anyway.

I can't use a magnet for the stud because they are usually wood based, but probably some particular scanner can do it, probably thanks to the moisture on top of it.
I didn't see any metal based stud in UK constructions, which could be a serious problem with rust, in UK you can forget proper stainless steel, or maybe I just saw cheap projects.

 

[robinbanks]

I can't use a magnet for the stud

The magnet isn't for the studs, it's for the screws/nails that hold the board to the stud and are just a few mm below the surface of the skim. It might take a while to find one but when you do it gives you the idea of the vertical line to look for the others, and then the horizontal distance to the next stud would likely be around 300, 400 or 600

which could be a serious problem with rust,

It's near certain going to be galvanised mild steel, which isn't going to rust in this application

in UK you can forget proper stainless steel

You'd have to be fairly lunatic to shell out on stainless studs IMHO

 

[blup]

I'm aware of the gap, initially I thought that posing a screw guide between the plasterboard and the concrete was a good idea, but the distance may flex it, giving too much weight to the plasterboard anyway.

I can't use a magnet for the stud because they are usually wood based, but probably some particular scanner can do it, probably thanks to the moisture on top of it.
I didn't see any metal based stud in UK constructions, which could be a serious problem with rust, in UK you can forget proper stainless steel, or maybe I just saw cheap projects.

Corefix are specifically designed to combat flex by use of a separate steel core that braces the p/b against the block. But the work within tolerances hence the need to measure.

Rare earth magnets identify the fixings in the studs, they never line up, so you can avoid fixing into the edge finding the maximum width between then, tapping the board helps too.