How to remove driving tool from metal fence spike

[breezer]

i stil lsay hit the bar with a smaller hammer, and hit it side ways for good measure.


mine has lots of indentations on the bottom, i wonder has the OP hit it too hard and thats why is jammed in (its stuck on the X inside the metpost)

 

[Thermo]

dont think its got a bar from what hes saying though breezer. i know the type you mean.

 

[Thermo]

just had another thought. drill a horizontal hole through the block that is protruding above the shoe of the metpost. insert a metal bar through it (reinforcement bar etc) you should then be able to get a bar or spade etc under it and pry it up

 

[noseall]

blowtorch!

 

[holmslaw]

"Metposts" are made by different manufacturers and have slightly different designs. I've got two different types in my garden. I tried banging one type in with the block I've got and I would have had the exactly same problem, luckily I noticed before it was too late.
Sounds to me you've got the wrong block for your posts - if you bought both in the same place take em back. I know - Easier said than done!!

 

[1892]

I bought them both from B&Q. They are the original "Metpost", made by Metpost, who sell the driving tool to safely bang the metal spike into the ground. The driving tool is a 4 inch square block of high density black plastic, with a twisted metal bar around the top for alignment when hammering the post in. It fits tightly into the metal post holder. The problem is that the metpost has a slightly tapered fit, and also four protruding flanges which grip the post (and the driving tool.) In frustration, I put the spike with the driving tool onto a gas barbecue grill outside, and heated for 5 minutes or so. This softened the plastic enough to loosen it, then hammer it off. It worked, but wasted a lot of time. This may help others with the same problem - I bet hundreds of posts and driving tools have been wasted in this way! The driving tool should be about 3.5 inches square, not 4 ins. I've planed mine off now, so it won't get stuck again.

 

[Thermo]

small tip. dig a hole put the post in and fill it with concrete. Why?

it lasts longer, its cheaper, its stronger, you get a straight aligned post a lot more easily.

Why do you think you dont see professionally installed fences with metposts?

 

[imamartian]

I often find at times like these, try using a scissor style car jack - it can be difficult to get a proper purchase, but if you can get it between the metal bar and the rim of the metpost you never know..... car jacks have lots of uses.

or alternatively, hundreds of smaller taps (on all sides) with a hammer on the side of the plastic block to loosen it.

or drill a line of holes (say an inch) in the side of the driving tool, immediately above the rim, so that you can insert a large chisel (or similar) and lever against the rim of the metpost?

And in the future, cut a small piece of fencepost off and insert that into the metpost before putting the driving tool in.

 

[1892]

I guess that professionals would find the posts too expensive for a long run of fencing, at one every 6 feet or so. I'd rather bang ten metal spikes into clay than dig a hole, mix concrete etc. The metpost does protect the wooden (tanalised) post from contact with the soil, whereas I've seen a lot of concreted in posts where the rot has set in just above the concrete. A metposted post can, in theory, be replaced easier. It's not the metpost I had trouble with, rather the tool sold with it. I do now have a piece of offcut post, planed slightly smaller, which is a loose fit in the metal for use "next time", but that may be years in the future!

 

[breezer]

dont fool yourself.

i put in two fences with metposts, being as the post is pointed after a few gusty winds they come loose and the fence leans.

not anymore since we had a whole new fence put in with concrete posts,

The other thing is the actual fence panels, as they are so thin they also break down after a few years.

metposts are good for trellis though

 

[ralph73]

never heard of these things until now,what a load of rubbish they are,my advice is to chuck it in the nearest bin.select your posts tap on spikes,use a solid bar or strong tubing and sledge hammer to make a hole were you want spike then swivel it round so you have a taper,then knock in post and spike.i made a shield out of mild steel and wood,like a crown to stop damaging your post knock in to desired height done, do this with every post.

 

[Turpitz]

Pull spike out of ground with the plastic drift still stuck in place and take back to b&q and get money back, telling them to stick their 45 day refund rule in a highly unusual place, using the drift if it helps! Simple

 

[ralph73]

First of all chuck that load of old rubbish,i dont know who designed these things but its obvious the tool is going to wedge itself in spike,what did we do before this thing was invented? mark out the site for your posts, use a strong piece of pipe or steel bar and sledge hammer to drive hole to depth of spike then wiggle about so you have a slight taper,fit spikes to post,make a dolly out of timber or i used mild steel square then fasten battens to steel plate youll have to drill 4 holes to secure your battens,this should be a snug fit on top of your post,then just knock the post and spike in hole you made easy.

 

[Thermo]

i would imagine he has either got it out or given up by now

 

[WabbitPoo]

lol can you imagine the poor OP still hacking away at the thing after all this time - he'd have arms like Popeye by now.