Ideal ISAR - CH off but radiators are hot - intermittent

[kevindgas]

same here we don't fit them anymore

repaired one last week new valve head, clean out all the crud, this morning went back to fit a strainer switched off done job switched back on
sequence of 7 followed by d, t, d,
switch on C/H c
switch off C/H 7 ??? then t then O

go to next job........

phone call 3/4 hour later, boiler not working at all, no display, go back verify supply to boiler, check fuse on PCB, change display panel as have a spare one, nothing!! looks like a new PCB on Monday morning

 

[idealnumber1]

Here we go again!!
If fitted correctly there is no problem with Isars, that also assumes that people working on them know what they are doing.

Still believing the head office propaganda then

The biggest fault with Ideal apart from unreliable products, is their insistence that it is never their fault, always the installer.

I have attended factory training, approved by Ideal for installations, my name given out by Ideal to customers when they have problems etc etc, all my Isars and Icos's serviced by the book annually, but still I have an embarrasing 35% + failure rate, higher if you count the same boilers that break down repeatedly.

It is really about time Ideal owned up, got themselves together and produced a product that is reliable and does not eat itself away with its own condensate. (But has the industry got any confidence left in Ideal products in general one has to ask, to dare fit their products anymore ?)

I see Ideal are after new gas design engineers. One hopes it is because they have got rid of all the idiots that have produced the last few boilers since the Classic

yet again you can't help yourself ,why don't you grow up and stop slating ideal
if you dislike them that much stop giving your opinion on the threads because you always sound pathetic

 

[gas4you]

Pathetic maybe, but definately true.

The same opinion as anyone actually apart from those that work for Ideal

 

[radio_engineer]

Hi,

I have attempted to sort out problem with diverter valve.

Once I have removed diverter valve actuator head I could see valve body. On one post here it was suggested to take apart valve by removing central part but NOT 4 screws holding valve head in place.

I could not see how this could be done? Should I remove small clip holding the spring on rod/plunger ?

I can see that valve head is made up of 2 parts, as it's made of plastic and is different colour. Central bit is cream colour and had inverted teeth / spikes but I can't see how this could be taken apart ? I have eventually removed 4 screws on the body and taken valve head off. No sign of blockage at all. ( and tons of water poured out despite draining boiler on drain point, lucky I was ready for it..)

Any suggestion here? can anyone be more specific how could I take apart diverter valve head ( Ideal part no 173 -624 )

I did push valve rod in few times to dislodge any blockage etc, and result is that the original problem has changed and radiators now are cold even when there is CH demand. thermostat demands CH but boiler has "D" on display. I suspect this is all down to sticky diverter valve.

thanks for help

 

[Agile]

Its possible the actuator is faulty or not properly seated.

How free was the pin with the cartridge out of place?

Did you apply silicone grease to lubricate it before putting it back?

Tony

 

[radio_engineer]

Its possible the actuator is faulty or not properly seated.

How free was the pin with the cartridge out of place?

Did you apply silicone grease to lubricate it before putting it back?

Tony

Actuator is working, I could see lever on one side moving etc, I think also it is seated fine.

The pin ( on valve and retained by spring ) was difficult to move even when head was taken off the valve. Pin would go in but spring could hardly move it back up once pushed in.

I did not lubricate it. There was some lubricant on actuator lever if this is what you refer.

Do you suggest I should lubricate valve pin ( retained by spring )? Could WD40 do the job or does this need to be silicone grease?

It was suggested valve head and pin with some sort of cartridge, can be taken apart and cleaned and lubricated perhaps, do you know how?

thanks

 

[Agile]

The pin ( on valve and retained by spring ) was difficult to move even when head was taken off the valve. Pin would go in but spring could hardly move it back up once pushed in.

I did not lubricate it.

thanks

Well thats your fault as expected and it seems that you could not identify it and took no steps to remedy the problem!

You might help it with silicone gease or it might need replacing or someone else on here might have other suggestions. Replacing it with new would be a good one!

I would never assume because a lever is moving that the pin is moving too!

The main problem is the pin goes down but does not return under the pressure from the spring. I thought a radio engineer would have realised that!

Tony

 

[radio_engineer]

Agree, .... and I must admit I was not sure how easy or fast valve pin should spring back up.

It was also suggested that cartridge can be taken out but I could not figure out how that can be done as outer of the valve head is one piece and inner part of the valve head is vithout any visible means to unscrew, it sits below level of the outer body so you can't grab it with pliers. Unless there is special tool ( mentioned in post below as "key thing" ) that would engage "teeth" on inside of the ring, something like pipe or socket with teeth on the outside to go over valve pin and spring and then engage inner part of the valve. ( hope this makes sense to you )

Does anyone know where this tool can be found or any alternative ?

see comment here:

if its a honeywell actuator head then yeah it would help if you had the little key thing to unscrew the cartridge.... but otherwise i'm sure you can get something..... just take the actuator head off and unscrew the cartridge - NOT the 4 screws on the valve body.... the cartridge has 'teeth' around the spring, thats the body, just unscrew it.... clean it, put it back in, check condition of the washers on it tho..... if you buy a new one, everything comes on it...

Just to add, it seems that boiler designers did not leave much space to remove actuator head, it needs to be rotated anti clockwise, and that is nearly prevented by main control board brackets even when CB is moved out to service position!? also main display board seems to just hang on the cable, and that can't be best for connections on PCB, so i disconnected display board.

thanks

 

[davebgas]

You get the tool in the cartridge replacement kit

 

[radio_engineer]

Thanks will give that go.

Only cartridge replacement kit for ISAR HE30 I can find on internet is Ideal / ISAR part No 173967 but photo of the cartridge shows what appears to be all metal (brass) unit.

Diverter valve head and body is plastic but i did not take valve apart hence I never saw cartridge itself.

If you have seen these cartridges yourself can you confirm that they are metal ? OR even better if you know is that correct part no. ( there is grey Honeywell actuator head on my boiler)

I guess this is common type of problem with ISAR boiler so it's worth having this kit with tool.

 

[davebgas]

Best give Ideal a ring and just ask them for the part no for the cartridge replacement kit.... if you arent mega desperate for a tool I can probably dig one out the van on friday?

 

[screech]

the plastic cartridge comes with a spanner to undo it, or at least it did 3 weeks ago when i replaced 1. there's about 3 possible cartridges it could be, ring up ideal and they'll give you the correct part number.

the spindle should pop back out nice and easily otherwise it's resting in ch mode so when the boiler does the preheat it'll do the radiators rather than the h/w