Ideal Isar HE30 woes.

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This is my first post, so thanks in advance for any help offered.

I have a HE30 that has just started giving me problems( "just" I hear you say)

The boiler flashes 'L' 'F' and won't fire up even after pressing the reset.

A registered engineer was called who did some electrical testing and diagnosed a faulty ignition electrode which was then replaced by him......same fault code continued.

Next diagnosis/claim was 'no power' to the gas valve so a new PCB is needed but when he was testing it I noticed there was a reading on his Meter so I was a bit confused by this claim. My Meter shows 108v being fed to the valve so hardly 'no power'

My question:

Does this diagnosis sound correct to the professionals on here?

Cheers for any replies.
 
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These boilers are shyte beyond belief and multiple failures are run of the mill. The PCB's are a joke.

Do you know what the correct voltage to the Gas Valve? ;).

I have had one where not only was the PCB guffed the spark generator was too, but the boiler would work reliably whenever I was there.


Anyway - L:F is a combustion failure so you won't get any technical advice. Only to call a professional. If you don't like the one you have, get another.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I appreciate that no technical advice can/will be given and rightly so. I just want opinions on the diagnosis. It was his claim that there was 'no power' when there clearly is power to the gas valve or rather there is power to the connection he tested.

Cheers
 
Not enough power is tantamount to no power though.

Did you seethe reading on his meter?

If it is an intermittent fault, you might have had a higher reading than he did.
 
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Thanks for the reply.

I appreciate that no technical advice can/will be given and rightly so. I just want opinions on the diagnosis. It was his claim that there was 'no power' when there clearly is power to the gas valve or rather there is power to the connection he tested.

Cheers

Yes but we cannot give you advice on the cause, partly because we are not in front of your boiler and regardless the site rules here do not permit us to!

As stated you need a competent engineer.

In my view you should not have to pay for a diagnosis which does not identify the fault correctly OR for parts changed which were not needed.

Tony
 
Unfortunately I read 'Gas Safe' as meaning competent, so maybe he's just a rip off merchant :p

Thanks for the replies which have been noted and understood.
 
To be registered as Gas Safe you have to take assessments which are solely associated with working safely.

So once the gas supply is turned off there is no danger from the gas!

It has nothing to do with fault finding on boilers!

Tony
 
L F could also be that the condense pipe is blocked. Does yours terminate inside or out? Trace the White plastic pipe from the boiler and check at its termination that it isn't blocked.
If it isn't, it's time for an RGI who actually knows these steamers.
 
L F could also be that the condense pipe is blocked. Does yours terminate inside or out? Trace the White plastic pipe from the boiler and check at its termination that it isn't blocked.
If it isn't, it's time for an RGI who actually knows these steamers.

Thanks.

It terminates outside, I will be getting another RGI to go over the 'steamer'

:LOL:
 
UPDATE

I had another engineer out today who diagnosed a faulty PCB. When tested he found only 110v being fed to the gas valve instead of 150-200v.

Hopefully this will be the final fix and I will have heat and hot water.

After reading about the problems that others have suffered with these boilers it would seem I have been lucky up til now.

Cheers for your replies.
 
There are a few tests to check if the gas valve opens. but if you don't have confidence in your engineer then get ideal out to investigate the fault and have it repaired there and then.
 

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