Idiot's Guide to Central Heating

Joined
20 May 2005
Messages
5,343
Reaction score
21
Country
United Kingdom
Central Heating.

This post lists alphabetically the elements of a typical domestic Open Vented Central heating (CH) systems for the benefit of the novice. Sealed systems may eventually be covered too, but initially this post is confined to Open Vented Systems. Please note that not every central heating system will conform in every detail to the descriptions here, but the majority of systems will be covered.

Boiler.

The boiler is the device where fuel (gas, oil, etc.) is burnt and the heat transferred via a heat exchanger to water which then circulates around the heating system. The key control on any boiler is the boiler thermostat which operates the gas valve or oil burner. Modern boilers are much more sophisticated and include a wider range of controls.

Central Heating (CH) circulation

The circulation to and from the radiators (rads) is always powered by a pump or circulator. The pipes from the boiler to the rads are flow pipes and those from the rads back to the boiler the return pipes.

Combi boilers

Combi boilers include a Domestic Hot Water (DHW) circuit and DHW heat exchanger so that DHW is produced within the boiler on demand instead of in a separate cylinder. The overwhelming majority of Combi boilers are on sealed systems.

Condensing boilers

Condensing or High Efficiency (HE) boilers are more efficient than Standard Efficiency (SE) boilers because some of the water vapour in the flue gases condenses back to the liquid state (water). This condensate has to be drained to waste via a plastic condensate pipe.

Controls

Heating systems require a range of controls to ensure that they operate safely, efficiently and according to consumer demand. The controls usually comprise the timer or programmer, the cylinder stat, the room stat, one or more motorised valves and the wring to link these together. Often there will be a junction box where the wiring connects.

Cylinder thermostats

In order to limit the temperature of DHW, and to avoid the boiler firing unnecessarily, DHW cylinders should have a thermostat fitted to the side, about 1/4 to 1/3 up from the bottom. This is usually set to 60C and consists of an electrical switch which feeds back into the control system.

DHW Cylinder

The DHW stored in a cylinder is usually heated by an internal coil heat exchanger through which heating system water circulates. There is usually an immersion heater in the cylinder to allow for heating of the DHW by electricity as an alternative to the heating system water.

Domestic Hot Water

The Domestic Hot Water (DHW) is the hot water that you draw from the taps. This is not the same as the water that circulates around the central heating system. DHW is usually supplied from a cylinder but can be supplied directly by a combi boiler or an independent water heater.

Feed and Expansion tank

Open vented systems are filled and vented to a Feed & Expansion (F&E) tank. This is usually a small plastic tank in the roof space which is fitted with a float valve to fill automatically from the mains supply. The outlet pipe is the F&E pipe and the vent pipe inverts (upside down U shape) over this tank.

Filters - Strainers

Some heating systems may have a filter or strainer on the return pipe to the boiler. Some combi boilers have filters built into them. The filter is intended to remove debris from the water which might otherwise cause problems elsewhere in the system. A recent development is a magnetic strainer (Magnaclean) which collects all iron oxide debris. Any filter or strainer will need to be cleaned at intervals.

Fully pumped Systems

Fully pumped systems use the power of the pump to drive the circulation to both the DHW cylinder and the radiator circuits. This system is taking over form the older gravity circulation formerly used for the DHW circuit.


Gravity Circulation

Gravity circulation was often employed on the DHW (primary) circuit, but has now been superseded by pumped circulation. Gravity circulation relied on the weight difference between hot and cold water to drive the circulation and required large (28mm/1") pipes to allow this.

Lock shield Valves

Radiators have two valves, one of which is used to open or shut the rad. The other valve is known as the lockshield valve and should be adjusted by the installer to balance the flow around the system. However in many cases they are simply left fully open.

Motorised Valves

Motorised valves (MV) or Zone Valves are used to divert the flow form the boiler to either the DHW cylinder, the CH radiator circuits or both. In some cases the CH circuit may be divided into 2 or more zones, each requiring an MV.

Open Vented Systems

Traditionally all heating systems were Open Vented, meaning the water was fed from a feed and expansion tank and the boiler was vented via the flow pipe and vent pipe. Pressures in such systems are typically low. Today sealed systems are becoming more common.

Primary (DHW) circulation

The circulation from the boiler to the cylinder coil heat exchanger was usually known as the primary circulation. Traditionally this would be gravity circulation which would take place in large pipes (28mm/1") powered only by the relative lightness of hot water compared to cold. Modern systems use pumped primaries to achieve faster heat transfer using smaller pipes.

Pump

Central heating pumps are very reliable and long lasting. they consist of an electric motor which turns an impeller which accelerates the water flow. CH pumps typically generate a maximum pressure or head of 5 or 6 metres. Pumps are often built into the boiler casing.

Programmable Room Thermostats

Room thermostats are available which combine the function of programmers. This has the advantage of putting the main user controls in one location, although as with simple room stats the location must be chosen with care to ensure that the air temp detected is representative of the whole house.

Programmers

Programmers are essentially timers which control switches linked into the control system. Typically they will have 2 channels (HW and CH) although Combi boilers will normally have single channel programmers. The simpler programmers are also known as timers.

Radiator Valves

Radiators have an isolating valve at each end. One is the main control valve (and may be a TRV) and the other a lockshield valve (although the 2 valves may look much the same, only one will actually open and shut without using a tool). If the radiator needs to be removed for decorating, the two valves can be closed and the union nuts released.

Room thermostats

The general temperature in a house should be controlled by a room thermostat fixed on a wall at eye level in a location where the temperature it senses will be representative of the general house temperature. the thermostat is an electrical switch that feeds back into the control system.

Sealed Systems

Sealed systems do not require a feed and expansion tank or vent pipe. The feed water is supplied manually using a filling loop. Expansion of the system water is accommodated by an expansion vessel. A Pressure Release Valve (PRV) is required as a safety device to release excess pressure. the boiler will require an overheat cutout to protect against thermostat failure.

System boilers

System boilers have the components of a sealed system (expansion vessel, PRV, pump) built into them to simplify the installation. It follows that they are always used on sealed systems and do not require feed and expansion tanks.

System controls

Heating systems require a range of controls to ensure that they operate safely, efficiently and according to consumer demand. The system controls usually comprise the timer or programmer, the cylinder stat, the room stat, one or more motorised valves and the wring to link these together. Often there will be a junction box where the wiring connects.

Thermostatic Radiator Valves

thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRVs) are often fitted to radiators to give a more responsive control of the radiator heat output according to the air temperature in the room. The head of the TRV has a sensor which responds to the air temperature around it. When the sensor expands on warming it pushes against a pin which closes the valve.

Three Port Motorised Valves

Some MVs have 3 ports (pipe connections) and can divert the water flow to either or both of the outlet ports. This allows one MV to control heating and hot water, instead of two separate (2 port) MVs. Most 3 port MVs have a mid position option which allows flow to both circuits simultaneously, but some (diverter valves) allow flow to only one or the other at any one time.

Timers

Timers are used to determine when the heating systems switches on and off. They are also known as programmers, particularly when controlling 2 channels (e.g. HW and CH).

Two Port motorised Valves

Two port MVs are either open or shut. I most cases they open when powered up and close automatically when power is cut off. When open they operate a microswitch which will in turn operate the boiler and pump.

Unvented cylinder

While most cylinders are open vented and are fed by a cold water storage tank in the roof space, some are now unvented and are fed directly from the mains. these supply hot water at much higher pressures than is normally possible from a tank fed vented cylinder.

Vent pipe

Open vented systems must have a vent pipe running from the top of the boiler, rising continually, to terminate over the F&E tank in an inverted U shape. The vent pipe allows air to escape from the system but more critically it is an escape route for steam in the event of the boiler overheating (e.g. failed boiler thermostat). Part of the vent pipe is usually combined with the flow pipe, but this section of pipe must not have any valves on it that might block the vent (e.g. the pump).
 
Sponsored Links
Sorry, but I think this is going too far. Giving help on specific problems is one thing, but this trend of running a distance learning centre is not the function of a diy forum in my view. Unless of course your intention is to write a book and are using the forum to have a running edit and correct service but then it's definitely bad form.
 
It was argued recently that since so many posts were FAQs we should have a section where standard answers were given to which posters could be referred. This would save us having to repeat the same answers ad nauseam. Admin subsequently agreed to the sticky topics.

This contribution is simply an input into this. Whether you or anyone else refer posters to it is entirely up to you. It will only consist of a short link in the sticky topic - the main post will drift off into the deeper recesses of the forum, to be forgotten by all except those who find it useful.

My aim is to make it a useful reference for all the posters who need guidance on terminology, which I think is the majority. I know some work has been done on this by others (definitions topic) but that work is currently rather sketchy.
 
Inclined to agree with oilman. The one-liners above could go into the Definitions thread I suppose, but without the structure, illustrations and indexing of a book, it's inappropriate to go too deep. The mess which the thread on flue types became, demonstates the problem.

Forums are fine for simple problem-solving, guidance and discussions, where books can't always help.
 
Sponsored Links
I'm ambivalent about this. I think the idea is a good one, but it's too hard to implement for one reason...

When posting an answer to a question (or symptom, or a general wondering), we can tell from the words of the questioner what degree of experience and knowledge they have, and tailor to it the vocab we use in the answer.

Pre-posting definitions, whilst being eminently handy as a reference, has only one shot at getting the lingo right, and I foresee (but don't assume) that it's too difficult a compromise to satisfy both skilled DIYers and utter novices.

Sorry to be negative, truly I am, but you wanted feedback :cry:
 
Thanks all for the feedback. Not quite the reaction I would have liked, but fair enough under the circumstances. If you stick your head above the parapet you can expect to get shot at.

Softus is of course right to point out that responses to questions need to be pitched according to the knowledge of the questioner. Inevitably standard responses will only suit a small proportion of questioners. However I don't think that is a valid argument against having standard answers available for use when appropriate.

The point about my post above is that it exists as an option for anyone who finds it useful. If no one finds it useful, it won't be used. No harm done, I would have thought, apart from the few seconds spent looking at it to see if it's useful or not.

And if it turns out to be of value to some, isn't that a good thing? Let the proof of the pudding be in the eating, I say.
 
chrishutt said:
The point about my post above is that it exists as an option for anyone who finds it useful. If no one finds it useful, it won't be used. No harm done, I would have thought, apart from the few seconds spent looking at it to see if it's useful or not.

And if it turns out to be of value to some, isn't that a good thing? Let the proof of the pudding be in the eating, I say.
I completely agree with this aspect, and I, for one, would expect to be able to use it, which is indeed A Good Thing. With this in mind I'm happy to comment on and/or proof read the topic as it evolves.

I meant to thank you for taking the effort ch, but got absorbed with my own opinions. So, thanks.
 
Hi,

I'm completely new to this forum, discovered it yesterday while searching for information on heating systems as mine is playing up. I knew absolutely nothing before I had the problem, but now I at least know the basics. Still can't fix my heating though! :oops:

Anyway I really appreciate the time people have taken to put these types of guides together. I find it strange that you have received negative feedback about it??? :?:

IMHO I believe the more information the better. Keep it up and if you want to come round and fix my heating for free then by all means! :LOL:

No seriously I'd like to see this kept going so don't lose heart by a few that think its a bad idea. Not that they are wrong, as they are only feeding back their opinions as requested.
 
I'm surprised at you, ChrisR and Oliman. You usually give the impression of a) wanting to educate your readers and b) encouraging self-help, but are now knocking Chrishutt for doing just that.

Unless I've got it completely wrong, contributors to this forum spend a significant part of their lives giving free advice for reasons of:

- intellectual excercise
- desire to help
- drum up biz (exception rather than rule)
- boredom
- feeling of "community"
- a divine urge to spread the gospel according to St John :LOL:

So what's wrong with ChrisH exercising his undoubted intellect this way and, in so doing, helping others etc etc? The idiot's guide has a place because it goes (or should go) beyond Kev's essential definitions.

If you really want DIYers to do a good and safe job, then ANY information you can give must be a bonus. A little knowledge is only a dangerous thing where it encourages people to tamper. But most people who post here are determined to tamper in the first place, so a little more knowledge can only be beneficial.

Content:
The key controls on any boiler are the thermostat and the gas valve

Someone above ain't going to like that ;)
 
PaulAH said:
Content:
Quote:
The key controls on any boiler are the thermostat and the gas valve


Someone above ain't going to like that
In fairness to Agile I must admit to having edited that bit to take account of his valid criticism. But thanks anyway Paul for the supportive comments.

As I indicated at the beginning, my post is under development and is liable to editing, particularly in response to criticisms. This can leave the critic's post looking a bit silly, but that can't be helped.
 
Slightly different perspective perhaps?

Whilst I am not totally in favour of a "book" for all the reasons expressed above, I have often thought that a list of instructions for common DIY tasks which we could refer people to would be helpful.

Examples that come to mind would be repressurising a system with a filling loop and repressurising an expansion vessel.

I do feel very strongly that it should NOT include invasive tasks which should be done by a CORGI engineer like changing gas valves and checking burner pressure.

Tony
 
In fairness to Agile I must admit to having edited that bit to take account of his valid criticism

Don't understand, Chris. The statement, as it stands, says a gas valve is a key control on any boiler. Oil? Solid fuel?
 
You mean it should be a FUEL control valve?

I have a problem with calling the gas valve a "control" in the context of the user.

I know that its a "control" to an RGI doing an ACS but to the householder its a boiler component ( and one they should not meddle with! ).

The boiler user controls are a thermostat and a timeclock!

Plus a DHW thermostat if its a combi as 95% are in London!

Tony
 
PaulAH said:
Don't understand, Chris.
Sorry, I misunderstood what your post was referring to. Tony had made a comment which lead to an alteration in my text which you happened to quote, so I jumped to the conclusion that you were referring to the apparent error in Tony's criticism. Is that clear now?

I now realise (I think) what you meant - I was assuming that all boilers are gas fired, which of curse they aren't. That will be edited out in due course, thanks.

Tony, I take your point about not encouraging DIY tampering with gas valves and such like. I shall try to avoid any ambiguity on that score.
 
That's it, Chris! The "someone above" was of course Oilman.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top