Immersion Heater

[silve]

I moved into my new place - got a welcome note from previous owners, noting: "unfortunately must inform you immersion heater is broken and element is sadly of the non-replacable type".

On moving in had a PIR done on electrics - all passed, but as you can see in the pic below, the heater was disconnected (white flex). The wiring itself up to the switch for the immersion is all working (switch lights when turned on) and this went through said PIR. For info, immersion is on a 16A MCB.

Two questions:

1) Is it true this element is non-replaceable because it has the typical immersion heater spanner nut, so you would have thought a trip down to Wickes for a new element would be in order.

2) Is it legal/acceptable for me to buy said element, and connect it up to the currently live switch. Or is there some sort of Part P issue in doing that.

Untitled

• silve
• 13 Jul 2010
• 1

Apologies if 1) is best asked in the plumbing forum but maybe someone here knows. As the photo is not clear, here is the info stamped on the element:

Santon Immersion Heater
Volts: 230/250 230/250
Kw: 2 Short 3 Long
Cat No: 8X 3036 V
Serial: SZ72787[/img]

 

[Lectrician]

No reason you can't change that - atleast you dont have to drain the whole tank

 

[1john]

Looks changable to me, perhaps the stat is non changable.

 

[maguire]

get a spark in to check the element and or stat Look on top if there is a wee red button sticking out, if it is I would say that there is something wrong with it any way they do not pop out for no reason
Dev

 

[silve]

Thanks guys - actually I got the spark to check it when he did the PIR. He put a meter across it and read an open circuit - told me it was definitely duff.

So I guess I'll have a go changing it.

Couple of mentions of the stat - but the immersion heater has no stat (that I can see?) it just looks like an element that wires straight into a switch.

The stat on the tank seems to be connected into the main gas central heating system. So it's nothing to do with the immersion - is that right??

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[silve]

Ok thanks all

 

[1john]

Dont forget to check that the gate valve actually shuts the water off, they normally fur up inside and wont shut properly.

 

[nelectric]

... drain off the hot water until its below the level of the immersion heater.

How do you know when the water level is below the element? Do you knock on the side of the tank to find where the level is? How long does it typically take to drain half a tank?

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[conny]

When he tested and said it was open circuited did he test across the element or through the stat?
If he went through the stat that may be the problem.

 

[Lectrician]

You cant drain the cylinder by opening the hot tap.

You crack the element with the cylinder full (keeps the tank supperted).

Turn opp gate valve to bottom of cylinder.

Open hot tap until the water stops - there will still be water in the cylinder (it exits from the top).

You need to open the drain cock on the cylinder which may be part of the cylinder or on the pipework feeding it.

Let this run for a short while to drop the water level - for elements low down in the tank you obviously need to drain far more!