impact driver bits

[Deleted member 174758]

Philips (PH) screws were specifically designed for the aircraft manufacturing to prevent over tightening of the screws, that is why the PH screwdriver will alway torque out or slip out of the screwhead. They have no place in the general construction industry.

Which is presumably why all drywall screws are Phillips head, then?

 

[mrcrow]

With that Impact driver you definately need the correct bits. A suitable, Impact Driver bit holder will go a long way to stop bits from breaking. Also learn how control the trigger for the amount of power generated.

The economy sets from Screwfix do work (but other makes named above work better)

been looking through all the freebies i got when i bought various screwing tools
they are all...marked with CR which i take is chrome vanadium...spanner steel
some are a bit cammed out so i will ditch them..even the pz ones as i may have been using them on ph screws...complications for the hammer chewer..eh?
you are right about the trigger...need to mind set myself as to what i am fixing...soft timber, hard timber or metal...
good advice that
cheers
geof

 

[mrcrow]

Philips (PH) screws were specifically designed for the aircraft manufacturing to prevent over tightening of the screws, that is why the PH screwdriver will alway torque out or slip out of the screwhead. They have no place in the general construction industry.

that settles it for me...i am selling the DC7 renovation project...i can understand with fuselage materials being softish...etc they are not needed any more..
i will ditch all of them...as i said above some look frayed at the edges anyway as i chattered my way on jobs and cursed the tools...nuf sed
cheers
geof

 

[mrcrow]

No idea where you got that guff from.

​

https://www.thoughtco.com/history-of-screws-and-screwdrivers-1992422

ah well i will keep the DC7 project going
thanks Sammy

i think a caveat on this might be that auto assembly line tooling was set up differing torque settings for differing attachment duties..and camming out wasnt reached..???...i have had some really hard times getting out phillips scews on cars though with one of those yellow handled srewgies which takes a ring spanner...either that or tap and twist with the hammer on the end...
usually its down to the small chisel and tap around the block...not rock

the phillips screws were a real god-send over the straight slot screws...it used to be sometimes a hammer and punch job to get some screws out as the bit chewed the slot..thats in shipbuilding environments where everything is inch by thick.

note
it is strange that cabinet makers continue to use the straight heads...no veneer in 'eer covering mistakes
and
in japan when they got into the uk markets big time changed their tooling to use phirrips sclews..
sumimasen for any of our nippon friends..i for one know the awkwardness of pronooncing englush as weel...born and bred on irn bru, haggis and minsantatties.
cheers
geof

 

[mrcrow]

finally got down to doing serious impact driver work
fixing plywood to a chipboard floor..prior to self adhesive vinyl planks
wowowo
those cheapies burn/cam out after about 4 screws..
just asking for a suggestion on what ones to buy for the rest of the job..more plywood to fix
ps
the Makita gold impact bit holder works well..!! thanks for the tip
cheers
geof

 

[ntb]

Wera

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Agreed

 

[mrcrow]

Serra it is then!!
Thanks chaps

 

[Chud]

If its the same impact driver I have (https://uk.ryobitools.eu/power-tools/drilling-and-screwdriving/rid1801/rid1801m-1/) you're going to want at least the Wera Tri-torsion bit holder or you'll be going through bits like nobody's business - it's max torque is quoted at 220nm which is quite high compared to a lot of units that tend to average out at 160-180nm.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Po...iamond+Screwdriver+Tri-Torsion+Bit+Set/p79674

 

[Deleted member 174758]

note
it is strange that cabinet makers continue to use the straight heads...no veneer in 'eer covering mistakes

Firstly, as an apprentice ALL show quality work (as opposed to mainstream carpentry work) was done using brass screws (slotted screws were predominently plain, ungalvanised steel - BZP, stainless and PZD were yet to become widespread) or on the odd occasion bronze screws (marine work) or for really fancy stuff maybe polished chromed screws and it was a matter of pride in one's work to get all the screws flushed properly and the slots in alignment - miscellaneous angles were regarded as slipshod and slovenly work. In any case the best quality cabinetwork doesn't use (or at least show) screw heads. As to "no veneer in 'ere" that particular advert shows scant regard as to what quality work really is (i.e. often veneered) whilst peddling second-rate factory-made carp where there has been no attempt to match the grain and colour of individual boards and where every single edge and corner is dubbed over by oversanding..... Real amateur stuff!

 

[SammyInnit]

If its the same impact driver I have (https://uk.ryobitools.eu/power-tools/drilling-and-screwdriving/rid1801/rid1801m-1/) you're going to want at least the Wera Tri-torsion bit holder or you'll be going through bits like nobody's business - it's max torque is quoted at 220nm which is quite high compared to a lot of units that tend to average out at 160-180nm.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Po...iamond+Screwdriver+Tri-Torsion+Bit+Set/p79674

I'd sooner take 3 packs of dewalt for the same money. I guarantee you won't get through as many as you suggest.

 

[chappers]

I'd sooner take 3 packs of dewalt for the same money. I guarantee you won't get through as many as you suggest.

You're joking a couple of years ago I bought a box as there was nothing else available Shattered three getting the first 3" screw in the rest got launched into the field.

Interesting point JaK re lining up the screw heads. I've always done it as a matter of course and even still do it with posi screws in a hinge

 

[ntb]

I'd sooner take 3 packs of dewalt for the same money. I guarantee you won't get through as many as you suggest.

I tried that approach. I use Wera now.

 

[crank39]

Cheap bits from your local pound shop are a waste of time, dewalt non impact in the tictac boxes are better and I must have at least a hundred in my little bit box, they get used occasionally and I don't seem to get through them like others here do, having said that I bought a pack of 25 wera bits 3 years ago and I'm still not halfway through them and that includes giving the odd few away to friends and colleagues to try, another I can recommend if you don't want to spend £20+ on wera bits are the new black dewalt extreme torsion with the yellow band, great value and I've not shattered one yet

 

[SammyInnit]

You're joking a couple of years ago I bought a box as there was nothing else available Shattered three getting the first 3" screw in the rest got launched into the field.

I'd have to see it to believe it.