Indesit IWF washing machine, single click but no start with any selected cycle.

[RomanAbramovich]

My indesit IWF washer, 5 years old at the very most, is refusing to wash.

I've verified the water connection is ok, machine powers on ok. Also cleaned out the pump, which didn't appear to be blocked.

I load the machine, close the door, select a cycle, press begin. After 2 seconds there is a single click, then nothing. It used to start filling with water at that point.

The door lock is operating as expected, because the padlock light is illuminated. (and confirmed it is locked by physically attempting to open it).

Switch off the machine, wait 3 mins, the padlock light disappears (with the same click noise).

Removed the washer lid and observed inside while running through the switch on routine, the click definitely comes from the door lock mechanism.

Door lock mechanism has 2 brown wires and one red wire running to/from it.

Can anyone advise steps to trouble shoot from here? Presume lock mechanism is ok, but the next item in the chain (whatever that may be) is not firing up?

 

[jj4091]

Does the water inlet valve actuate shortly after the door lock? If not then possibly presure switch problem or solenoid may have failed. Try a continuity check across the coil if you have a meter. Also if the pressure switch is the type with a pipe from the drain pump to it then check pipe and pump for obstruction.

 

[RomanAbramovich]

Does the water inlet valve actuate shortly after the door lock? If not then possibly presure switch problem or solenoid may have failed. Try a continuity check across the coil if you have a meter. Also if the pressure switch is the type with a pipe from the drain pump to it then check pipe and pump for obstruction.

No noise from the water inlet valve. The pressure switch is connected to the pump area by a rubber pipe. The pump itself appears to be clear. Is it that the initiation sequence on most washers is: check door lock, check pressure switch, open water inlet valve? I have a multimeter, when you say test continuity across the coil, do you mean on the pressure switch or the inlet valve? Cheers.

Btw just examined the pcb and there aren't any burn marks visible.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

No noise from the water inlet valve. The pressure switch is connected to the pump area by a rubber pipe. The pump itself appears to be clear. Is it that the initiation sequence on most washers is: check door lock, check pressure switch, open water inlet valve? I have a multimeter, when you say test continuity across the coil, do you mean on the pressure switch or the inlet valve? Cheers.

Try putting meter, set for ac mains range, across the solenoid terminals. It should switch on, soon after you press the start button. Alternatively, disconnect wires from the solenoid and check its resistance.

Check that rubber pipe is free of obstructions, too. Blowing gently into the end of the pipe, should cause the pressure switch to click.

 

[RomanAbramovich]

Try putting meter, set for ac mains range, across the solenoid terminals. It should switch on, soon after you press the start button. Alternatively, disconnect wires from the solenoid and check its resistance.

Check that rubber pipe is free of obstructions, too. Blowing gently into the end of the pipe, should cause the pressure switch to click.

To my untrained eye, there appears to be 2 solenoids on the water inlet valve, each powered by a connector having 2 wires. First connector 2 grey wires, second connector 2 navy blue wires. Unclipped both connectors, stuffed the meter probes across the 2 contacts within the first connector, with meter set to volts ac 200. Switched on the washer, door lock clicked, no reading on the meter (monitored it for 2 mins). Same happened with the second connector test. Does this mean there's no power getting to the solenoids? Or my use of the meter is incorrect?!

With regard to the rubber pipe attached to the pressure switch, on closer inspection the opposite pipe end is attached to the underside of the drum, as opposed to being attached to the pump. I can't get access to the end of that pipe to test for blockages. Is it ok to tip a washer onto it's side to access components from underneath?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Does this mean there's no power getting to the solenoids? Or my use of the meter is incorrect?!

That's strange - both the four terminals, and the no reading. Is it a hot and cold fill perhaps?

Did you check the resistance across the solenoids?

With regard to the rubber pipe attached to the pressure switch, on closer inspection the opposite pipe end is attached to the underside of the drum, as opposed to being attached to the pump. I can't get access to the end of that pipe to test for blockages. Is it ok to tip a washer onto it's side to access components from underneath?

If you can access the top-end of the pipe, then try blowing down it to prove it's clear, then find a short bit of pipe, to fit the pressure switch.

You can tip a washer on its side, but first lower the drain hose to the ground, into a bowl, to drain it - be aware, washers are very heavy. It is sometimes easier to just raise a washer, onto milk, or beer crates to work on them.

 

[RomanAbramovich]

That's strange - both the four terminals, and the no reading. Is it a hot and cold fill perhaps?

Did you check the resistance across the solenoids?

After much head scratching, opened up the multimeter to examine the battery, noticed the internal fuse was blown. Strange as the continuity test feature still worked ok. Took a drive to a local electrical supplier for the unusual spec fuse. Will get on to this again tomorrow.

If you can access the top-end of the pipe, then try blowing down it to prove it's clear, then find a short bit of pipe, to fit the pressure switch.

Pipe clear when testing from the top. Forgot to buy a length of rubber pipe for pressure switch test, when out buying the fuse. Doh!

 

[RomanAbramovich]

Did you check the resistance across the solenoids?

Multimeter on 200k setting the reading is 4.32 across terminals of both solenoids.

If you can access the top-end of the pipe, then try blowing down it to prove it's clear, then find a short bit of pipe, to fit the pressure switch.

Bought some pipe to attach on the pressure switch - on testing no click heard.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Multimeter on 200k setting the reading is 4.32 across terminals of both solenoids.

Bought some pipe to attach on the pressure switch - on testing no click heard.

4.32K seems OK.

As an additional check, you could try blowing in the pressure switch, with your meter across the terminals, set on continuity. It should short out, when blown into. If it still fails, it is faulty.

 

[RomanAbramovich]

As an additional check, you could try blowing in the pressure switch, with your meter across the terminals, set on continuity. It should short out, when blown into. If it still fails, it is faulty.

The terminals inside the switch are ridiculously difficult for making good probe contact, they're like barely accessible, thin painted on strips of copper, as such I'm not confident in the accuracy of my testing. No continuity sound audible from the meter after several test attempts.

Retested the switch with air presssure (both positive and negative) and can hear it moving up and down inside it's casing. Assume it must default to the down position on cycle completion?

 

[jj4091]

You really need to check the continuity of the switch contacts somehow as it may well just be a diagphram that moves up and down with contacts attached to it. Could you not get a good contact buy piercing the insulation on the wires with your probes. As Harry says if it does not conduct in either position then it would suggest it is faulty.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Retested the switch with air presssure (both positive and negative) and can hear it moving up and down inside it's casing. Assume it must default to the down position on cycle completion?

Unless it's some other type of pressure sensor? The only ones on these machines I have come across, look like two tiny, back to back frying pans. Inside is a rubber diaphragm, and the movement of the diaphragm due to pressure, operates a microswitch. It's the clicking of that switch, which you should hear, as pressure is applied.

If it matches that description, worthy of more investigation..

 

[pto]

try it on spin see if pump works see if motor turns if the pump is oc then it wont fill

 

[RomanAbramovich]

You really need to check the continuity of the switch contacts somehow as it may well just be a diagphram that moves up and down with contacts attached to it. Could you not get a good contact buy piercing the insulation on the wires with your probes. As Harry says if it does not conduct in either position then it would suggest it is faulty.

Persevered with continuity testing, nothing from centre contact to left contact, or centre contact to right hand contact. Expected one of them to have continuity without pressure applied.

Unless it's some other type of pressure sensor? The only ones on these machines I have come across, look like two tiny, back to back frying pans. Inside is a rubber diaphragm, and the movement of the diaphragm due to pressure, operates a microswitch. It's the clicking of that switch, which you should hear, as pressure is applied.

If it matches that description, worthy of more investigation..

This is the sensor:

On testing, the internal mechanism is defaulting to the 'up' position. Only when negative air pressure is applied does the mechanism move downwards. I would expect the reverse to occur, in that the internal mechanism is in the lower position by default, moving upwards when the weight of filling water in the drum increases air pressure inside the pipe?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

This is the sensor:

Which is nothing like I described. It's a transducer, and no way for you to be able to test it.