Induction hob cable

Sponsored Links
This will surprise hard-work

upload_2017-7-6_13-5-10.png
 
This will surprise hard-work
... and JohnD :) If his "pretty well instantly" means less than 1 second, then it looks as if it would take about 500A to blow a 60A fuse that quickly. If he meant less than 0.1 sec, it would need nearer to 900A!

As one would expect from the mechanisms, whilst an MCB will trip magnetically "pretty well instantly" once one has exceeded the magnetic trip current threshold (but not appreciably faster if the current is above that threshold), the speed of operation of a fuse continues to increase "indefinitely" as current rises.

Kind Regards, John
 
Sponsored Links
No. But there is always a 1st time. :)
I think that it's probably extremely unlikely due to overload in any normal domestic situation, particularly if there is no electric shower. When service fuses blow, it is usually due to a fault.

The first flat I lived in, many decades ago, had a 40A service fuse, but had electric cooking, electric water heating, washing machine and dryer, to name but a few loads. That fuse never blew.

Kind Regards, John
 
Yes, I would be happy to use that.
For what it's worth, I personally don't like using twin & earth to connect cooking appliances.
Kind Regards, John
I will go with the 4mm flex heat resistant cable. I thought there must be a reason why TLC do not stock 6mm heat resistant flex cable. Like you, I do not like T&E to connect to appliances. It was not designed for that. It is for permanent installations. An oven is not a permanent installation as it is an expendable appliance that will need replacing at some time. Is there a reg stopping T&E connecting appliances?

One point about the TLC 4mm cable. It is rated to 85C not 90C. Maybe a 90C resistant sheath over it would do.
 
I will go with the 4mm flex heat resistant cable. I thought there must be a reason why TLC do not stock 6mm heat resistant flex cable.
At least in terms of things domestic, once one has taken diversity into account, I don't think you would find any usually-flex-connected load that would require bigger than 4mm². Showers will often/usually need bigger, but they are not wired in flex.
Like you, I do not like T&E to connect to appliances. It was not designed for that. It is for permanent installations. An oven is not a permanent installation as it is an expendable appliance that will need replacing at some time. Is there a reg stopping T&E connecting appliances?
I'm not aware of any specific regulation that prohibits it. My main problems with it are those of practicalities - and, of course, it is usually not specifically 'heat-resistant'.
One point about the TLC 4mm cable. It is rated to 85C not 90C. Maybe a 90C resistant sheath over it would do.
I personally really would not worry about that, but others might!

Kind Regards, John
 
The manual states:
Use the correct mains cable of type H05BBF Tmax 90°C (or higher) for a single-phase or two-phase connection.

This same phrase is in the manual for Electrolux, John Lewis and AEG induction hobs.
 
TLC has heat resistant sheathing, at 88p per metre:
If there were concern about the heat tolerance of the cable (and, as I said the 5° difference would not concern me!), I'm not at all sure that putting it within heat-resistant sleeving would necessarily make much difference. The sheath would be able to tolerate a slightly higher temp, but would probably conduct that heat through to the cable within!

Kind Regards, John
 
The makers specify `heat resistant` cable. Guarantee purposes. The 4mm is within range by 3A but it would be nice to have 6mm all the way.
What are the manufacturer guaranteeing by specifying that cable? The appliance guarantee stops at the appliance terminals, if it was that important for the warranty then they would supply it pre flexed, or are they gonna insist on a 90degree cooker connection unit as well? A length of 2.5 or 4mm flex will be sufficient and perfectly safe
 
If there were concern about the heat tolerance of the cable (and, as I said the 5° difference would not concern me!), I'm not at all sure that putting it within heat-resistant sleeving would necessarily make much difference. The sheath would be able to tolerate a slightly higher temp, but would probably conduct that heat through to the cable within!

Kind Regards, John
I agree with you 100%. The sheath takes 155C. It must add some extra safety aspect. But guarantee issues may arise and they can be very funny about those. For about £1 for a sleeve all is solved on that point. The 155C will shut them up.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top