Hello all....I'm in the process of fitting a new kitchen and we're about to change from a gas hob to an Induction hob.
I've a couple of questions I can't seem to find a definite answer to.
1. Can an Induction hob be fitted into a laminate worktop? I've read that the worktop must be granite or quartz because the laminate will get too hot?? but I've also read that this only applies to "flush fit" hobs that need a recess cutting into them in order for the hob to sit "flush". I wasn't planning on a "flush fit" hob anyway, we're looking at the thin glass top type that sit about 6mm to 10mm proud of the worktop.
2. Regarding sealing the glass hob.I've read you should not, under any circumstances, use silicone to seal the glass hob to the worktop, for fear of the glass expanding when hot then cracking due to the adhesion of the sealant. That being the case, would the hob come with some sort of sealant strip and seal under it's own weight to the worktop? Obviously moisture seeping into the laminate core is not a good idea and this is partially the reason for question 1.
3. Regarding "heat resistant cable". A few models we've looked at, a Zanussi one for instance, state cable to H05BB-F Tmax 90°C must be used.
I've looked in the Screwfix catalogue and there is no sign of that particular cable, the only heat resistant cable they offer is 3-core flex type of about 2.5mm. I was planning on using the existing 6mm feed that powered my cooker (32amp) and purchasing a 13amp plug in single built-under cooker, as running a new feed from the board is not really an option without major surgery to the house.
Sorry for the length of post, I wanted to be clear and precise so what I'm asking is understood...all help and advice is massively appreciated folks....BTW the "gas is better" argument holds no weight with the wife, believe me, I've tried.!!
Thanks
John.
I've a couple of questions I can't seem to find a definite answer to.
1. Can an Induction hob be fitted into a laminate worktop? I've read that the worktop must be granite or quartz because the laminate will get too hot?? but I've also read that this only applies to "flush fit" hobs that need a recess cutting into them in order for the hob to sit "flush". I wasn't planning on a "flush fit" hob anyway, we're looking at the thin glass top type that sit about 6mm to 10mm proud of the worktop.
2. Regarding sealing the glass hob.I've read you should not, under any circumstances, use silicone to seal the glass hob to the worktop, for fear of the glass expanding when hot then cracking due to the adhesion of the sealant. That being the case, would the hob come with some sort of sealant strip and seal under it's own weight to the worktop? Obviously moisture seeping into the laminate core is not a good idea and this is partially the reason for question 1.
3. Regarding "heat resistant cable". A few models we've looked at, a Zanussi one for instance, state cable to H05BB-F Tmax 90°C must be used.
I've looked in the Screwfix catalogue and there is no sign of that particular cable, the only heat resistant cable they offer is 3-core flex type of about 2.5mm. I was planning on using the existing 6mm feed that powered my cooker (32amp) and purchasing a 13amp plug in single built-under cooker, as running a new feed from the board is not really an option without major surgery to the house.
Sorry for the length of post, I wanted to be clear and precise so what I'm asking is understood...all help and advice is massively appreciated folks....BTW the "gas is better" argument holds no weight with the wife, believe me, I've tried.!!
Thanks
John.