Induction hob wiring

[autolycusd]

I have a DP cooker switch running to a cooker connection outlet via conduit 1m away under the worktop. This outlet currently has a 6mm cable running to an oven with a total rating of 2075W and a flexible cable running to a wall socket. The gas hob is plugged into this socket with a normal 13a plug.

I wondered if i could just connect an induction hob using the 6mm cable and use the redundant lead from the gas hob for the oven? If so, what sort of wattage would be OK for the hob?

The Cooker switch is on its own MCB cicuit from the consumer unit.

Thanks.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It is unlikely you will be able to use the flex that supplies power to the existing gas hob, as this cable will very likely be rated at a lesser valve then any induction hob you select to purchase/use.

Where the gas hob only needs enough current to ignite the gas burners, an induction hob will need vastly more.

Your best method forward, is to select the hob you require and then use the cable/flex size that is recommended by the manufacturer.

6.00mm2 T&E cable will have a maximum rating of 46A (providing no derarting are required to be factored in), with a low rated oven output such as yours, you will have ample current available on this circuit to add an induction hob. Rule of thumb allows for 15kW on a 32A circuit, 32A device will protect 6.00mm2 cable (providing the cable is not surround by insulation along it's route).

 

[autolycusd]

Hi - thanks for the response. But it was the old 6mm oven cable that i intended to use for the induction hob - the gas hob flex would be used for the oven.

 

[JohnW2]

Hi - thanks for the response. But it was the old 6mm oven cable that i intended to use for the induction hob - the gas hob flex would be used for the oven.

Unless the gas hob flex was very over-generously sized, it is likely to be too small for an oven as well as a hob - gas hobs require hardly any electricity, but ovens need a lot. As PBoD said, the appliances you select (including the oven) will indicate what flex size they require.

Kind Regards, John

 

[autolycusd]

I haven't bought the hob yet, but the oven is rated at 2075W. Do you happen to know what size/spec flex it will need? It will, as you see, go into the same outlet, albeit via a 13a plug/socket.

Edit - just saw on the oven spec - min 2.5 mm 3 core butyl insulated. Any way to check what the present flex is?

 

[JohnW2]

I haven't bought the hob yet, but the oven is rated at 2075W. Do you happen to know what size/spec flex it will need? It will, as you see, go into the same outlet, albeit via a 13a plug/socket. ... Edit - just saw on the oven spec - min 2.5 mm 3 core butyl insulated. Any way to check what the present flex is?

As I said before, unless it was unnecessarily grossly over-specified, it's very unlikely that the flex for the gas hob will have been anything like 2.5mm². To give you some idea, look at the cable on an extension lead, kettle or fan heater - that's likely to be 1.25mm² or 1.5mm² - and I suspect that your gas hob flex will be no fatter than that, at most. 2.5mm² flex is quite fat.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Iggifer]

Plus most PVC flex has the size stamped in it rather than printed so should be visible.

It's definitely not butyl though

 

[deadshort]

Hi, you just need to replace the cooker connection plate with a dual connection plate. If you're oven requires a 13a fused supply, then put a 13a FCU or Socket onto one of the 6mm cables you have connected to the dual plate.

I would use 6mm or 4mm to supply the socket, that's just my preference.

Regards,

DS

 

[Iggifer]

Why? When the load you can draw from that socket or fcu is clearly limited by the fuse to 13A

You could use 1.5mm quite comfortably if you wanted to do so

 

[JohnW2]

Why? When the load you can draw from that socket or fcu is clearly limited by the fuse to 13A ... You could use 1.5mm quite comfortably if you wanted to do so

That was the past. For the future, the OP wanted to use the flex that previously fed a gas hob's "sparker" (which may well have been 1.5mm² or smaller) to feed his new oven.

Whilst 1.5mm ² (or even 1.25mm ²) would, electrically speaking, be OK for the 2075W oven, the MI apparent calls for a minimum of 2.5mm².

However, I agree with you that it seems to make no real sense to feed a single 13A socket with 4mm² or 6mm² cable!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Iggifer]

I get that. But there is only so far you can follow them when they are so OTT.

You would need to use an FCU and not a plug and socket, as it would be a pig to get 2.5mm butyl into a standard plug (not saying it's impossible, but not worth the effort)

I wouldn't even hesitate to put 9.02A down a piece of 1.5 flex

(I think you began replying to my post before I edited out the bit about the sparker)

 

[JohnW2]

I get that. But there is only so far you can follow them when they are so OTT.

Indeed - and, of course, one now only has to "take into account" the MIs. However, many people will still worry about 'invalidating the warranty'.

You would need to use an FCU and not a plug and socket, as it would be a pig to get 2.5mm butyl into a standard plug (not saying it's impossible, but not worth the effort)

Indeed, it's not easy - and should never be necessary, since (electrically speaking) one never needs 2.5mm² flex for a max 13A load.

I wouldn't even hesitate to put 9.02A down a piece of 1.5 flex

Nor me. In fact, again electrically speaking, 1.25mm² would theoretically be OK.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Iggifer]

I guess it's up to the OP how he want's to proceed. I know how I would do it...and it definitely wouldn't involve any more 6mm

 

[JohnW2]

I guess it's up to the OP how he want's to proceed. I know how I would do it...and it definitely wouldn't involve any more 6mm

Same here (and no 4mm², either) - but that's you and I.

Kind Regards, John

 

[autolycusd]

So if i understand you, what i propose is fine?