I want to fit a non return valve in the expansion pipe to stop my mega shower pump draining the expansion pipe instead of draining the tank. Yes I know i shd have fitted a surrey flange or essex doohdah...but my cylinder is a glass lined Lennox water heater and doing any such thing is strictly verbotten. Before I fit this valve though, I want to know all the things that can go wrong if this valve jams....or any other suggestions would be welcome.
Ingenious idea to stop shower pump draining expansion pipe
- Thread starter jonblair
- Start date
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No valves allowed on expansion pipe. Should be a free path to air and ex tank at all times. 
What are you trying to do anyway?
I can't see you getting a patent for this idea.
What are you trying to do anyway?
I can't see you getting a patent for this idea.
Thanks for the info. I am installing a 3 bar Salamander ESP100 shower pump. The pump will be protected with the Water Starvation Detector, which detects low water level in the expansion tank and turns off the pump. So I am not worried about the tank draining. I am however mindful of the fact that when the pump comes on, instead of drawing hot water from the cylinder, it will suck water from the expansion pipe as that is the path of least resistance. The hot draw off will be located just above the cylinder, and the expansion tank sits some 12 foot above this point, so there is a certain amount of leeway and maybe i will get away with it. Any suggestions?
1st,
the feed pipe fronm the cistern to the HW tank should be big, 35mm should do
2nd
If the pipe which comes frm the top of the cyl rises a bit, you take your feed from the underside where the bubbles aren't.
3rd
stick gate valves in (you'll have isolators anyway) so you can reduce the flow if necessary to the point where it doesn't suck air. You still get the same pressure for low volume high pressure requirement head settings like pulsed, but obviously less flow flat out. Would probably empty your water a bit quickly anyway!
Don't put anything in the vent pipe. Any non smooth bits tend to scale up.
the feed pipe fronm the cistern to the HW tank should be big, 35mm should do
2nd
If the pipe which comes frm the top of the cyl rises a bit, you take your feed from the underside where the bubbles aren't.
3rd
stick gate valves in (you'll have isolators anyway) so you can reduce the flow if necessary to the point where it doesn't suck air. You still get the same pressure for low volume high pressure requirement head settings like pulsed, but obviously less flow flat out. Would probably empty your water a bit quickly anyway!
Don't put anything in the vent pipe. Any non smooth bits tend to scale up.
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At least it will be easier to fit the cylinder in the back of your car to take it down the tat yard when it has imploded and shrunk to the size of a walnut.
M
muckylugs
I think the experts that have replied to your post would of put you of your idea by now!
NEIN! NEIN! NEIN!
Das ist auch verbotten!!
Sie sind ein wenig spates, mein Freund. Wir haben das schon gesagt.
Vous etes un peu en ******, mon ami. Nous avons dit cela deja.
Usted es un poco tarde, mi amigo. Hemos dicho eso ya .
(couldn't be ar*ed to do the accents!)
Vous etes un peu en ******, mon ami. Nous avons dit cela deja.
Usted es un poco tarde, mi amigo. Hemos dicho eso ya .
(couldn't be ar*ed to do the accents!)
Thanks for all the comments. I do need all your views, even the ones i do not want to hear....only after all the possibilities are known can i make the final choice. One ray of hope is the possibility of the secondary tapping point mentioned by doitall. The heater is the directly fired type. Where would this hole be?
I will determine the model number etc, and take a look at the unit and provide the details asap.
I will determine the model number etc, and take a look at the unit and provide the details asap.
On the side ofthe cylinder just after the curve stops.
The method I mentioned IS recommended by Stuart Turner for pumps up to 3 bar (but not 4) so would be worth a try, especially with a means to turn the flow down a little if required. Have you compared the volume of the cylinder with the flow rate of the pump. You'd be surprised how many people pump 40 litres/min out of a 120 litre tank and wonder why it doesn't last too long!
The method I mentioned IS recommended by Stuart Turner for pumps up to 3 bar (but not 4) so would be worth a try, especially with a means to turn the flow down a little if required. Have you compared the volume of the cylinder with the flow rate of the pump. You'd be surprised how many people pump 40 litres/min out of a 120 litre tank and wonder why it doesn't last too long!
Thanks chris, looks like that is the first thing to attempt, if it works, even with reduced flow, that would be great. Looked at the Lennox heater, it does not have any visible holes on the outer casing, unless it is hidden underneath the outer casing. The model no is JW405NT.
I have made some rough calculations of discharge from the shower panel i intend using. I will not be pumping anything like 40 litres per min. The panel only discharges maximum of 14 litres per min through the pulsating head, the only feature i am interested in, to massage my bad shoulder. at that rate of useage, i actually measured i have some 18 minutes of showering time. 10 minutes is plenty for me.
i will order my slamander pump and start experimenting as soon as it arrives. hopefully, i will not need any drastic measures!
I have made some rough calculations of discharge from the shower panel i intend using. I will not be pumping anything like 40 litres per min. The panel only discharges maximum of 14 litres per min through the pulsating head, the only feature i am interested in, to massage my bad shoulder. at that rate of useage, i actually measured i have some 18 minutes of showering time. 10 minutes is plenty for me.
i will order my slamander pump and start experimenting as soon as it arrives. hopefully, i will not need any drastic measures!
Chris .
You forgot the Italian
You forgot the Italian
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