Do you know that as long as you have live and neutral supplying an rcd, and no other cables coming from it that it would 'trip' if the test button was pressed?????
Do you know that when you press the test button on an RCD? The test button is only there for checking the internal mechanism of the RCD still mechanically functions.
Your RCD is supposed to operate under fault conditions within certain times dependent on the level of fault current, for example a 30mA RCD will need to operate within 200mS @ 30mA of fault current. this test needs to be done twice on different phase rotations, also this RCD requires to be tested at 150mA and is required to operate within 40mS, also this test needs to be done twice, then to ensure of no nuicance tripping it is tested at 15mA (half it's rated operating current) and it should not trip.
What about all the other test results you need to know that the installation is safe such as
verification of main equipotential bonding conductor(s)
PSC
Ze
Zs
R1R2
loop continuity resistance readings on you ring final circuit
Insulation resistance
RCD operating times
Do you know that cables need supporting and securing so that they cant be damaged or pulled ect.
Do you know that cables grouped together, run in thermal insulation ect cannot dissapate heat as easy and their current carrying capacity becomes derated by such methods of installation.
Are you planning on running a trunking or conduit down to the socket outlets from them being CLIPPED SECURLY along the top of the wall?
If not then these cables wont have any mechanical protection, if you do that this also has a detrimental effect on the cable and also derates it.
Extreme cases of this can make a ring final circuit be required to be ran in 6,0mm cable or more.
I would suggest that you employ the services of a qualified electrician that can certify and notify his own work for this job, it is too large a scope with too many factors that you havent even considered and dont understand for you or almost any DIYer. I dont mean this in a nasty way, it's just that electrical work is quite complicated, not so much the installation (although sometimes it can be more than dificult) but the design and calculations required to design circuits that operate safely and as designed can be very complicated. thats why a properly apprenticed electrician has spent 3 to 5 years doing courses and has spent almost upto £1000 on test equipment and uncountable amounts of money on other hand and power tools. if the cost aspect of doing this job is making you do it yourself and you beleive you can learn all that is relevant then i think it would still be cheaper to employ someone to do the job rather than buy the test equipment. This work is notifiable and the LABC are to be notified before you start the work, the cost on this can be £200 i beleive, it varies from council to council. If this is ignored the penalty could be a fine of £5000. there are other implications to be aware of when selling your property too.
The electrician may let you do some of the work yourself to save you some money, although that shouldnt be the deciding factor on who you choose to do the job. Get minimum of three quotes, ensure you know exactly what you want so you have an identical spec being quoted for.
You need to then chose the person that you can afford but someone you feel you have a good rappour with, that you trust and feel confident to let work in your home.
DIY in my mind is about adding additional sockets where allowed, replacing lights ect. not installing sub main circuits and installing complete circuits with no idea of design calcs and factors and no idea of testing.
