Installing Gate Post Flush with Tarmac Path

[George.Swiftly]

I want to remove an existing brick pier since the matching one is long gone.

I'd like to install two 200mm x 200mm gate posts (wood) where the brick piers used to be.

Is it possible to install them so they are flush with the existing tarmac path? So remove the old brick and concrete, dig a deep hole and postcrete them in flush with the path?

Please see attached pictures.

 

[jj4091]

Wouldn't it be easier to get the missing pillar rebuilt? Definitely would not use wood posts.

 

[George.Swiftly]

Not really, at least not from a DIY perspective. Quotes for doing such are not exatly cheap, plus matching the capping stone and brick isn't exactly easy too so you need to remove the other and rebuild to match, plus the orginal 1960s drive way width are very narrow so having wooden posts half the width would make access easier. Finally the pier missing sits infront of a grim old fence anyway so it looks odd having brick pier then concrete fence. The plan was to have the wood post leading onto a new matching wooden fence.

Why would you not use a wood post?

 

[Why Not Indeed]

Not straight into the ground, because it will rot. Put a concrete spur in the ground, fix post to that. Or just use a concrete post.

 

[George.Swiftly]

A 200mm x 200mm treated wooden gate post? Over what duration? All the concrete posts on the rest of the fence are failing so they have a finite life too it seems.

 

[Why Not Indeed]

Over what duration?

I don't know.
If you prefer the look of timber posts, use just a spur. Timber in the ground always rots in the end.

 

[JohnD]

A 200mm x 200mm treated wooden gate post? Over what duration? All the concrete posts on the rest of the fence are failing so they have a finite life too it seems.

I have known concrete posts last 50 years. How old are yours?

Poor quality porous concrete allows rain to penetrate, encouraging frost spalling and subsequent rust of the steel. You can protect somewhat with masonry paint, especially on the top, or a lead cap.

Concrete spurs, holding wooden posts off the ground, increase the posts life enormously. You can add lead or timber caps to throw rain off.

If either of the posts is against a house wall, you can bolt that post to it and keep it off the ground.

There are a couple of steps you can take to prevent gatepost leaning. This is especially useful if they are tall or the gate is heavy. Gates shake the posts when slammed, and exert a constant sideways force.

The easiest one is to bolt a lintel between the tops

Another, when digging the post holes, is to dig a trench and cast a concrete beam between them, like a doorstep, preferably reinforced, to hold the two posts in a single wide structure. You can cast in tubes to use later as bolt sockets.

 

[George.Swiftly]

Maybe I should clarify some points - the large "chunky" post will be purely for aesthetics - there will not be a gate hanging off it. Its purpose is to mark the driveway entrance and the end of the front fence. As it stands now a small 75-100mm post just looks lost and unfinished.

Concrete posts, look frankly awful. I've never seen one with a nice finish.

I'd rebuild the pier to a brick and a half if quotes were not absolutely stupid for the job (thousands not hundreds) and then I still need to figure out a way to neatly marry up the wooden fence behind to the newly build pier. I was going to replace the fence with a small wall but again, was getting quotes of £4-5000+ for 7 meter wall.

If anyone knows of alternatives that won't look lost at the end of a front fence I'm very open to suggestions.

Thanks all

 

[JohnD]

If it's just ornamental, you can buy oak posts in large sizes, which will last better then softwood fenceposts.

I don't know if there is a treatment for the buried foot to delay rot.

BTW postcrete is designed to be fast to set and easy to use. In all other respects it is inferior to ordinary concrete. As you have no fence liable to be blown over by the wind the moment you let go, you do not need it.