Can I install a fan with a timer into an existing pull-cord light switch so that the fan will continue to run, after the light has been turned off, then be switched off by the timer? Can I get a light switch which will do this, or I need to install a separate switch for the timer?
Installing in-line extractor fan (with timer)
- Thread starter jakobyte
- Start date
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Or its SELV supply if it's a 12V fan, e.g. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGLT12T.html
Yes the timer is built into the fan itselfThe timer that controls the overrun is built into the fan itself.
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Sorry , i'm getting mixed up here.
the timer is built into the fan and it does not have a transformer to take it down to 12V. it is wired direct to mains.
Then the timer is built into the fan iself.
There's an article in the Wiki on how to connect it up.
You may need to add RCD protection to the circuit, don't forget.
There's an article in the Wiki on how to connect it up.
You may need to add RCD protection to the circuit, don't forget.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. WHEN I READ THROUGH IT ALL IT WAS SIMPLE. I USED THE SAME TYPE OF LIGHT CABLE TO CONNECT THE LIVE & NEUTRAL TO POLE 1 & 3 OF A 3 POLE ISOLATOR, THE THE LIVE LEAD FROM THE PULL CORD SWITCH TO THE LIGHT TO POLE 2 ON THE ISOLATOR. THEN CONNECTED 1, 2, & 3 TO THE CORRECT CONNECTORS ON THE FAN TERMINALS
There's no need to SHOUT.
1) What sort of cable did you use from the switch to the isolator?
2) Ditto from the isolator to the fan?
3) Did any cables concealed in walls follow the rules?
1) What sort of cable did you use from the switch to the isolator?
2) Ditto from the isolator to the fan?
3) Did any cables concealed in walls follow the rules?
ban-all-sheds";p="1771224 said:
As Tim says, let's hope it's not 6mm² cable, because that won't be the lighting circuit.
When you say "6mm", what do you mean?
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:flatpvccables
Not allowed - you need to replace it with a sheathed cable. Or enclose it in conduit, but replacing would be much easier.
Beware of condensation issues if you're routing the vent through the loft space.
OK I'm an old guy, not used to this new money. It's the flat grey cable about 3/16 inch thick and 5/16 inch wide, 2 wires plastic coated, red & black with a naked earth wire between. A single wire in each, about 1/32 inch. It's similar in size to the cable from the junction box to the pull light switch, and from there to the light socket, except those red & black coated wires are a bit older and they have two(2) thinner wires in them.
I definately don't have it wired into the shower as I don't have an electric shower. At the fan it wires straight into a circuit board with a chip and a few resistors on it, then a couple of very thin black covered wires out of it to the fan. I'm assuming that the resistors will cut down the current going through and the thin black wires will be safe.
Sounds like 1mm² or 1.5mm²
That doesn't. What are you using to measure it? Whatever, sounds big enough for a 6A circuit.
2?
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:old-imperial-cable-sizes
Main thing though is you have to remove that single-insulated cable you put in. Between isolator & fan the easiest thing to do is to use 3-core & earth.
I am only measuring it with my tape. I bought the cable at B & Q as lighting circuit cable. It's about half the thickness of the cable I got for installing a fused spur to a power socket, and about a third of the thickness of the cable to my electric Hob.
The single red wire I added from the light switch to the isolater, and on to the fan I taped to the other cable to keep them all together and labeled them as such, should someone else need them in future, and used the red one as it connects to the red at the light switch
The earth lead was connected to the earth in the light switch, but there is no connection for it in the isolator, or the fan.
Incidently, if your wondering why I just don't get an electrician to do this, the last one I had in, several years ago was installing my gas boiler. The plumber removed the old back boiler from the fireplace, installed connecting pipes and installed the a gas fire in front of it without tightening the pipes. the water soaked through both sides of the wall and the plaster fell off both walls. The electrician wired the heating thermostat to the motorised valve for the hot water, and the heating thermostat to the hot water valve. The hot water cylinder nearly exploded before I came home and worked out what was wrong.
Ideally, should find a point on the circuit that contains live, switched live, neutral and earth; then use 1.0/1.5 mm 3 core and earth cable to the fan switch, then to the fan.
You should find a point that contains all 4 wires. This could be at the light, the switch, or a junction box.
The 3 core cable contains
BROWN usually permanent live
BLACK usually switched live
GREY usually neutral
EARTH bare wire sleeved with green/yellow sleeving.
You should find a point that contains all 4 wires. This could be at the light, the switch, or a junction box.
The 3 core cable contains
BROWN usually permanent live
BLACK usually switched live
GREY usually neutral
EARTH bare wire sleeved with green/yellow sleeving.
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