Installing my own gas boiler

It's not just that its not financially viable but also a question of the overall quality of the installation and system design.
There is a lot more to it than people think.
Calculating the right size rads, choosing the best pipe runs, location of rads,choosing the best programmers/thermostats to suit your needs.
All these things come into the equation to ensure you have an efficient/cost effective system.

What are you talking about? A customer wants a commission on gas, flue, ventilation, safety etc. Nothing to do with efficiency or effective system.

They've chose to plump it, let them deal with it.


I can see that a responsible installer would want all aspects of the system to be correct, professionalism showing !
However I would like to say I agree with Gas2Air it's my choice to think I can do it and live with an expensive under achieving system, so long as no-one else is blown up. i'd have to live with the green issues too, wasting fuel.
 
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It's not just that its not financially viable but also a question of the overall quality of the installation and system design.
There is a lot more to it than people think.
Calculating the right size rads, choosing the best pipe runs, location of rads,choosing the best programmers/thermostats to suit your needs.
All these things come into the equation to ensure you have an efficient/cost effective system.

What are you talking about? A customer wants a commission on gas, flue, ventilation, safety etc. Nothing to do with efficiency or effective system.

They've chose to plump it, let them deal with it.

I would say that quality and safety go pretty much hand in hand.
 
Rad sizing, measure the width length and depth of the room, window area and note whats above/ below. Google rad size calculator, type in info on each room to get rad size, oversize around 10% for condensing boilers. Heating circuit, run 22mm f&r pipe to roughly centre of the house, manifolds to 10mm and supply each rad in 10mm, done. If your in a typical 2/3/4 bed terreace/ semi that's all you need to do :D (just my opinion, that's pretty much what I do)

Get gas fitter to fit and commision gas line and boiler :D

Although it seems someones happy for you to fit the boiler so happy days, I wouldn't be comfortable letting a customer hang the boiler, more because I'd worry if it backfired on me for any reason, good luck.
 
Rad sizing, measure the width length and depth of the room, window area and note whats above/ below. Google rad size calculator, type in info on each room to get rad size, oversize around 10% for condensing boilers. Heating circuit, run 22mm f&r pipe to roughly centre of the house, manifolds to 10mm and supply each rad in 10mm, done. If your in a typical 2/3/4 bed terreace/ semi that's all you need to do :D (just my opinion, that's pretty much what I do)

Get gas fitter to fit and commision gas line and boiler :D

Although it seems someones happy for you to fit the boiler so happy days, I wouldn't be comfortable letting a customer hang the boiler, more because I'd worry if it backfired on me for any reason, good luck.

Thanks srhawksy, your last comment is interesting.

Not sure how much I'm saving here if I'm paying for the gas run and engineer time while I hang the boiler under his supervision (covering himself). Suppose it's like supervising an apprentice.
 
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Also, forgot to say thanks for the ideas on running pipes and sizing rads. Done the sizing from several online calculators, just to check! I'm using the manifold idea and basically only need to run from the boiler to the center of the house - as you say. Its good that what you say hasn't made me think oh sh**.
 
Hi all,

Could you repair your car at home, buy parts etc then drive it to a dealership and get them to sign off in the warranty book? No, not many or any would do that for you. Fitting a full heating system as explained before is a complicated and inportant procedure. Given the cost of utilities these days, the choice or rads and pipework can be critical.

Why would you want to fit 22mm to centre of house then manifold down to 10mm. Lot of arguments fore and against that type of installation. I would like to think the guy who is signing off your work knows you and is happy with the work you are doing. Remember, he is putting his name and reputation on the line. Personally, I would never sign off a client's work, as that is taking money out of my pocket and cheapening the heating trade.

If all goes well great, but, I bet the guy wouldn't come back for a warranty call. Given that now most boiler company's offer 5yr plus warranty plans....
 
Hi all,

Could you repair your car at home, buy parts etc then drive it to a dealership and get them to sign off in the warranty book? No, not many or any would do that for you. Fitting a full heating system as explained before is a complicated and inportant procedure. Given the cost of utilities these days, the choice or rads and pipework can be critical.

Why would you want to fit 22mm to centre of house then manifold down to 10mm. Lot of arguments fore and against that type of installation. I would like to think the guy who is signing off your work knows you and is happy with the work you are doing. Remember, he is putting his name and reputation on the line. Personally, I would never sign off a client's work, as that is taking money out of my pocket and cheapening the heating trade.

If all goes well great, but, I bet the guy wouldn't come back for a warranty call. Given that now most boiler company's offer 5yr plus warranty plans....

Surely if he did come out on a warranty call he'd be making money and be able to say "told you so". Also if the install was safe, yet incorrect, the manufacturer would say it's not due to defective parts, so tough!
 
Check out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7qVdRk5VZY[/QUOTE]

That guy is an absolute cock end. The installation is as rough as a badger's rear orifice and any installer signing of other people's work is an equal cock end

By all means run the heating and hot water pipes. Prepare the way for the gas pipe.

But let the rgi run and test the gas, hang the boiler and fit the flue. Strictly speaking the condensate is part of the flue until the first trap too.
 
When you sign off a boiler install you are confirming the integrity of the appliance as well as gas tightness etc. That's why I won't sign off an appliance that I haven't personally fixed to the wall. I'm quite happy for a customer to carry out the work on the wet side up to the last connections though. For a consultation fee I'll also design the system and advise on pipe runs etc.

As has been said above not a lot different from a boiler swap really.

I've done quite a few jobs where the customer has laboured for me to save themselves a bit of money, why pay crafstman rates for lifting floorboards etc. ?
 
I can understand others who feel they can buy a boiler from B&Q and install it. It would be better if testing this type of install was easy and failed if necessary. At least then you have a chance of getting it right and saving a great deal of money. Also, those installs that were unsafe and needed remedial action would be caught.

Rant over

Yes it would be better if testing a boiler install was easy and failed if necessary, it would mean us gas fitter would save a great deal of money too like £80 a week on apprentice wages for a few years £180 yearly gas safe fee's £2500 in training and assessments to work on gas appliances every 5 years £600 on flue gas test equipment £100 on annual servicing of test equipment and so on :rolleyes:
 
To say nothing of the Public Liability Insurers who will nail you to the floor if something someone else has done fails, but you were (allegedly)the last competent there. Your certification states that the installation (wet side as well as gas) complies with every aspect of building regs. When the house is sold 4 years down the line, you will be the one responding to the Solicitors claims for incompetence.
 
Hi all,

Could you repair your car at home, buy parts etc then drive it to a dealership and get them to sign off in the warranty book? No, not many or any would do that for you. Fitting a full heating system as explained before is a complicated and inportant procedure. Given the cost of utilities these days, the choice or rads and pipework can be critical.

Why would you want to fit 22mm to centre of house then manifold down to 10mm. Lot of arguments fore and against that type of installation. I would like to think the guy who is signing off your work knows you and is happy with the work you are doing. Remember, he is putting his name and reputation on the line. Personally, I would never sign off a client's work, as that is taking money out of my pocket and cheapening the heating trade.

If all goes well great, but, I bet the guy wouldn't come back for a warranty call. Given that now most boiler company's offer 5yr plus warranty plans....

What are the arguments against??

22mm will carry enough heat to supply all rads, then down size to 10mm which will carry enough heat to each rad. I'm not the smartest fitter but I know 22mm will carry around 13kw and 10 around 3kw I doubt one rad in the house will be more than 3kw?? why wouldn't you want to use 10mm

what would you do? 15mm for the lot??

Fit to the centre, then branch off, like veins. If you go to the centre and run from there the lengths of 10mm will be roughly the same ish, easier for balancing, if required.
 

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