Installing Towel Radiator

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Hi
I am installing a towel rad, the pipes are already there ready and valve fitted, pls see pics. I have fitted required parts to the rad, pls see pics.
I have looked on you tube but all in all vids they first fit the rad on the wall then do the piping which don't apply to me. I bought rad with same spacing between pipes as the rad I had before.

1. The first issue is rad bracket depth to wall. I have the 4 brackets on rad, as in pics they are about 70mm from wall but valve centre from wall is 40mm as in pics. So I need to cut the bracket by around 35mm? I will have to cut both parts of each bracket, pls correct if wrong? By Hacksaw?
Also need to make hole for small holding screws, drill will break the plastic I guess, what's the best way?

2. As pipes are ready, what's the best way to measure brackets locations on wall? Is it best to cut the 4 brackets, assemble them on rad, place rad on the two valves and pencil 4 brackets locations on wall?
How much to allow for the nut which connects rad to the two valves? Or may be I don't need to allow anything as rad sits on valves and tightened? I don't need PTFE or Jointing compound here as there is washer.

3. It's plasterboard wall, which fixings is recommended?

TIA

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I think you can put the valves on the rad and connect them to the pipes with one of these.
pippture.JPG

The pipe section can be cut down to the length that you need to bring it away from the wall. Your curent valves are straight valves and you will need to swap them for 90 degree or corner valves I think.
If its too close to the wall then you cant get a towel behind it.
 
Yep, wouldn't be the first time I've had to cut the plastic tubes so the rad will have the correct distance from the wall for the pipe centres.

Hacksaw is difficult to get a straight flat cut. Dremel is best and warp a piece of tape around to mark the square cut. Once cut use some 120grit on the flat floor and flatten the cut. Same with the insert pieces.

Drill a new hole for the grab screw, 1/8th part drill, plastic is soft enough where drilling wont be an issue.

Locate the brackets that fit onto the rad to where you want them on the rad, sit the rad onto the valves, supporting the rad on a box or similar, then push the rad against the wall and mark the position of the bracket legs. The centre point is the centre point for the wall tubes.

Fixings depend on what's going on it and how sturdy the pipework is - Ideally something nice and strong - hollow spreading anchors should do.

BTW the rad tails do have PTFE on them?
 
Yep, wouldn't be the first time I've had to cut the plastic tubes so the rad will have the correct distance from the wall for the pipe centres.

Hacksaw is difficult to get a straight flat cut. Dremel is best and warp a piece of tape around to mark the square cut. Once cut use some 120grit on the flat floor and flatten the cut. Same with the insert pieces.

Drill a new hole for the grab screw, 1/8th part drill, plastic is soft enough where drilling wont be an issue.

Locate the brackets that fit onto the rad to where you want them on the rad, sit the rad onto the valves, supporting the rad on a box or similar, then push the rad against the wall and mark the position of the bracket legs. The centre point is the centre point for the wall tubes.

Fixings depend on what's going on it and how sturdy the pipework is - Ideally something nice and strong - hollow spreading anchors should do.

BTW the rad tails do have PTFE on them?
Could he do what I am trying to explain. Its something that I did and I also widened the existing pipes to fit the wider towel rad by the same method.
 
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Could he do what I am trying to explain. Its something that I did and I also widened the existing pipes to fit the wider towel rad by the same method.
Yes, he certainly could.

Would leave it looking a bit strange though IMO being cranked like that.
 
Yep, wouldn't be the first time I've had to cut the plastic tubes so the rad will have the correct distance from the wall for the pipe centres.

Hacksaw is difficult to get a straight flat cut. Dremel is best and warp a piece of tape around to mark the square cut. Once cut use some 120grit on the flat floor and flatten the cut. Same with the insert pieces.

Drill a new hole for the grab screw, 1/8th part drill, plastic is soft enough where drilling wont be an issue.

Locate the brackets that fit onto the rad to where you want them on the rad, sit the rad onto the valves, supporting the rad on a box or similar, then push the rad against the wall and mark the position of the bracket legs. The centre point is the centre point for the wall tubes.

Fixings depend on what's going on it and how sturdy the pipework is - Ideally something nice and strong - hollow spreading anchors should do.

BTW the rad tails do have PTFE on them?
I don't have a dremel, time to get a cheap Titan from SF.

What type of drill bit, metal or wood or masonry? I was thinking to try with heated nail to pierce thru?

The pipe work is quite sturdy buried in concrete floor. I think I can find one stud to fix 2 brackets on.

Cheers
 
Careful with a hacksaw, if it goes off straight, which hacksaws are very good at doing, then it's a right PIA to correct. Best hand tool, if you have one is a fine tooth wood/plastic saw and a vice

1.5/2mm HSS drill will be fine, just drill the outside tube
 
I managed to cut the brackets with clean perfect finish , remembered I had adjustable metal pipe cutter in the garage.
 

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I have a problem, although I bought same pipe spacing rad as per tape measurements, they don't fit, out by 5mm, pls see pics. The 15mm copper pipes won't budge buried in concrete floor. What are the options?

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One way would be to take up the floor tiles, excavate out a bit of the concrete floor and re-adjust the pipes.
However, i can ujnderstand why you don't want to do this. In that case the only option appears to be to take off the valve on the misaligned size, insert a pipe bending spring and then do a bit of hefty bending. This will of course result in a bit of misalignment of the valve with the towel rail tail when the valve is refitted, but these joints are tolerant to a bit of misalignment so it may well work and seal OK
If it doesn't, it's back to taking up the tiles I'm afraid.
 
I think better option is to remove valves, cut both pipes to half way short, hang rad higher than the 15mm pipes by about 40-80 mm and plumb new pipes to rad. I can leave the pipe on the left as it and plumb the other as can't be seen behind wall hang vanity unity.
 

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