Insulation and u value

[lostinfens]

At last, another soul calls it scant!

Just looked at this thread and noticed the scant reference. Havent heard it called that for years, is it a nationwide term? I'm from nth west, we called it that till cls appeared

 

[charly]

Am faced with another small problem . Does any one have any pointers as to attach the 60mill insulation to the batterns and then attach the plaster board ,I was hoping to fine some kind of purpose made screw with washer or plaster board screw with bigger head ? I rang the building inspector to see if he could advise but he said he can't in case it goes wrong

Also i am going through drill bits like you wouldn't imagine trying to get through the stone . does anyone know where i can get a really heavy duty 210 long 6.5 mill masonry drill bit . I have bought 7 this week already Thank you

 

[hotrod]

At last, another soul calls it scant!

Just looked at this thread and noticed the scant reference. Havent heard it called that for years, is it a nationwide term? I'm from nth west, we called it that till cls appeared

I'm from the nth west too (Lancs). It's still called scant round here, CLS and scant are two different timbers (CLS is more rounded). But you're right CLS is used more these days as it's quite a bit cheaper. Plus, scant only comes in 3"x2".

 

[hotrod]

Am faced with another small problem . Does any one have any pointers as to attach the 60mill insulation to the batterns and then attach the plaster board ,I was hoping to fine some kind of purpose made screw with washer or plaster board screw with bigger head ?

Hi charly, bit confused here as I thought you were going to frame out with studding and then infill between the studs with PUR insulation. This would mean you could just cut it to 'friction' fit between the studs and wouldn't have to fix through the insulation, studs and then into stone. WRT the drill bits I normally get the Bosch SDS Plus masonry bits, but obviously if you've not got an SDS they'll be no good!

hth

 

[charly]

Hi Hotrod The building inspector would not let me put the insulation between the batterns as this would leave a cold spot on the batterns ?? so this is the way he insisting i am doing it, house is a nightmare hate it at minute. yes builder is using an SDS

 

[charly]

ordered the bosch plus drill bit thanks

 

[hotrod]

Hi Hotrod The building inspector would not let me put the insulation between the batterns as this would leave a cold spot on the batterns ??

Arr right that old badger! I'm not totally convinced cold bridging is the problem people make out in scenarios such as yours (where the thermal conductivity differential isn't massive), but hey-ho the BCO gets what the BCO wants....

Right, I assumed you were infilling as you were using 3"x2" and this is overkill really for battening the PUR to the wall (plus you'll lose an extra 1"). So, two options:-

1. Infill the studding, as proposed, and then overboard the studding with additional thin layer of PUR (20/25mm) to prevent cold spots bridging through to the plasterboard. See if this method is ok with your BCO.

2. Friction fit the PUR to the wall - floor to ceiling. Fix the 3"x2" (or preferably 2"x1" treated slate batten) through the PUR into the wall. You will then have no cold spots on the timber and can fix the plasterboards straight into the studs/battens using 32mm plasterboard screws.

hth

 

[charly]

Thanks hotrod am too late for option 2 my walls now look like this :-

I shall speak to building inspector in the morn about option 1 . Thanks for time and have just realised it is batten not battern

 

[hotrod]

Looks like you're going to have some nice high ceilings there charly.

What did the BCO say to overboarding the studding with a 25mm layer of PUR?

 

[charly]

I couldn't speak to him he was in a meeting all day will try tomorrow .... yes very high ceilings have kept the roof pitched not good if i have to change a lightbulb eh .

will let you know what he says

 

[hotrod]

How did you get on with this charly?

 

[charly]

the building inspector wouldn't allow the slither to cover wood so i have had to go ahead with the 60 mill on top and plaster board on top it's taken up a huge amount of space am gutted really but nowt i can do . will be warm i guess windows are in now and ready for plumber but just trying to find out how much it will be (posted in plumbing ) Thanks for asking

 

[hotrod]

Sorry to hear that charly. That's a bummer

I can't help feeling the BCO's been unreasonable over the issue or maybe not fully understood the theoretical "cold bridging" implications (or lack of). If it had been me I would have sat down and done some calcs with him and had an in depth discussion, but I guess you're not in that position where you can challenge him. Hey ho! Onwards and upwards, good luck!

 

[charly]

Don't you just love insulation found out today because i have put a new floor in one side of house not only do i have to have sound proof plaster boards i have to put acoustic insulation inbetween each joist 45 quid a roll BCO is trying to cripple me i am sure .


Hotrod BCO is a lovely man but he will not deviate from what he has told me . I have just had to get over it and do it as planned ...

 

[mointainwalker]

Sounds a real nuisance, Charly. Hope it's really good when finished.

Don't remember if you said earlier, but what type of building is it ?