Insurance have declined drain/drive way claim
- Thread starter indus
- Start date
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Indus,
The post #13 (has now become post #12 - go figure?) that you refer to in your post #19 seems to have vanished. Now its all vanished.
The gist of the post was that the user name had spotted an imaginary interceptor trap where none existed.
The writer locates his interceptor trap high 30" to 33" above the main drainage invert in a redundant pipe that might actually be a vent pipe.
He located his imaginary interceptor trap on the inlet side of a manhole - very unusual.
The only interceptor trap in your manhole appears in your pic #15 - it can be seen in the channel outlet from your manhole where they are often located.
The post #13 (has now become post #12 - go figure?) that you refer to in your post #19 seems to have vanished. Now its all vanished.
The gist of the post was that the user name had spotted an imaginary interceptor trap where none existed.
The writer locates his interceptor trap high 30" to 33" above the main drainage invert in a redundant pipe that might actually be a vent pipe.
He located his imaginary interceptor trap on the inlet side of a manhole - very unusual.
The only interceptor trap in your manhole appears in your pic #15 - it can be seen in the channel outlet from your manhole where they are often located.
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Get back on your pills, ted. You are starting to ramble - you sound like bobasd . used to. Imaginary flues, now imaginary drains. The only thing vanishing is your credibility as "tel765" just start up another user name as you have done at least 4 times.
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Presumably the cctv camera saw no blind junctions in the run from " what appears....trap" towards the house. You presume much and imagine a lot. The green algae could be alien spawn ?
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If it were me, i would pay an independent contractor to do a full drain survey and investigation.
if they differ from auger i would then collate the evidence provided by the drainage company and submit to the insurance company and open a dispute.
if they differ from auger i would then collate the evidence provided by the drainage company and submit to the insurance company and open a dispute.
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The sunken blocks are a simple fix which you could do yourself if you are able, for a few hundred pounds at most. You'll spend more money and effort if you start getting independent surveys done and chasing the insurance company.
There are a number of good guys on here who could advise if required.
This sounds about right unfortunately. I was present when the insurance company's agent did the CCTV. The remainder of the system all functions fine. The vent pipe in question wasn't cctv'ed for the reason that jetting it might cause further damage, this sort of made sense.
I can't mess around for too long as the sewer is being constantly blocked. I've got somebody coming around this evening to give me a quote. If it's reasonable I'll just get them to crack on.
Taking an over view of all the responses on this thread I get the impression that the vent pipe is indeed redundant and that is what the insurance company will use to deny the claim.
No point me wasting more time and money. I'll just have to take it on the chin.
Cheers
The block will have to be lifted to relay, make sure whoever takes them up removes any broken/redundant vent pipe first, before making good the substrate and relaying the paviours. Hole into manhole can be carefully plugged with a stiff bit of concrete, ensuring any that falls into the chamber below is removed.
Hi
1) Can you please explain what you mean by;
The block will have to be lifted to relay,
Where/what is the relay?
2) By the statement below do you mean the vent pipe needs to be removed? At the level I can see the vent pipe in the manhole it looks to be a couple of feet deep. Does that mean you have to dig that far down and remove the pipe?
make sure whoever takes them up removes any broken/redundant vent pipe first,
Sorry for so many questions.
Thank you
What Hugh means is when the Blocks are removed they will be relaid and then to block up the vent going into the manhole with stiff concrete then make good substrate and relaying the blocks.
Andy
Andy
I new what you meant Hugh. 
Andy
Andy
1. The blocks will have to be lifted, (taken up) and put to one side, the base material made good, (should be a layer of crushed stone, followed by a compacted layer of sharp sand onto which the blocks are then laid), then the blocks can be put back, (relaid.) A 'Wacker' plate then needs to be run over the blocks to compact/vibrate them tightly down. Kiln dried sand should then be brushed over the top to fill all the gaps and ensure the blocks cannot move.
2. My concern is, if the vent pipe is in poor condition, it may continue to collapse over time, thus creating further voids under the surface, which could then result in further sinking of the blocks. I would want to make sure the substrate is firm before relaying the blocks, or you may be back to the same situation before too long.
2. My concern is, if the vent pipe is in poor condition, it may continue to collapse over time, thus creating further voids under the surface, which could then result in further sinking of the blocks. I would want to make sure the substrate is firm before relaying the blocks, or you may be back to the same situation before too long.
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