Is it worth using 1cm x 1cm bracket for door of this drawer?

Yeah I'll use metal brackets but see my original question, I've only got a depth ifv1 centimetre to work with, the screws would need to be tiny. Is that a problem? Tiny screws will eventually loosen wont they?
The brackets need to be on the inside of the drawer, not the outside, and they are used to connect the side to the front, so you can exceed 10mm plate length.

This means that they will be visible when you open the drawet
 
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On finished surfaces? Also don't know if the drawer sides are foil wrapped. Either way a glue only joint is not very strong in tension, which is why the dowels failed in the first instance
 
On finished surfaces? Also don't know if the drawer sides are foil wrapped. Either way a glue only joint is not very strong in tension, which is why the dowels failed in the first instance
I am not talking about Evostick wood glue here but if you want to destroy the look by adding metal brackets then carry on.
(Last comment on the matter)
 
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Can you describe the method you used to glue the dowels?

Gorilla wood glue, best on market, shoved it around dowels and in dowel- holes, hammered the front literally with a hammer then got 5kg weight off barbell and left it on front for 24 hours.
 
I am not talking about Evostick wood glue here but if you want to destroy the look by adding metal brackets then carry on.
(Last comment on the matter)

Destroy the look in the inside of a drawer? You won't see them unless you bend down and poke your head in and who cares anyway what the inside of a drawer looks like if the drawer's full anyway?
 
Gorilla wood glue, best on market...
I wouldn't believe the hype, it's all Gorilla BS. There are many better glues on the market, just as there are many reasons why a dowel joint would fail. But we didn't go onto those.

BTW was it their awful overpriced polyurethane (PU) glue, or their similarly overpriced PVA glue?
 
Gorilla wood glue, best on market, shoved it around dowels and in dowel- holes, hammered the front literally with a hammer then got 5kg weight off barbell and left it on front for 24 hours.

Do you mean you pulled all the dowels right out of their holes first? Or smudged it round the visible bit?
 
The brackets need to be on the inside of the drawer, not the outside, and they are used to connect the side to the front, so you can exceed 10mm plate length.

This means that they will be visible when you open the drawet

Should the brackets be half way up or in the bottom corner?
Thanks mate.
 
I'd suggest that you use two in each front corner of the drawer - one near the bottom of the drawer, the other maybe 5mm down from the top edge, on each side.Your screws will need to be small - if your drawer sides are 16mm then you'll need 3.5 x 12mm although yo might just get away with 3.5 x 16mm. The best screws for the task are probably Hospa (much favoured in the kitchen trade), although any good quality chipboard-compatible screw (such as Reisser, Spax, etc.) will work almost as well. Don't power drive them, instead caretully pilot drill the holes (2.0 to 2.5mm pilot bit) and carefully screw in by hand
 
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5mm (No.3) x 10mm
Do you mean you pulled all the dowels right out of their holes first? Or smudged it round the visible bit?

The dowels on the right have come loose again. I just pulled them right out on that side (other side was still firmly in place) and shoved Gorilla glue down the dowel-sockets and in the grooves at the back and side of drawer best i could. I then hammered the front and put a 5kg weight on the back (door knobs to the floor).
 
If the dowels have come loose again it means one of two things - either the wood that they are in is cracked or otherwise damaged or that the joints are contaminated. Did you clean off all the old glue before you reglued? The instructions should always say that glue should be used on a clean, dry surfaces. If all you have done is to add glue onto an existing joint which has old glue on it then it can fail again. Time for Plan B? (brackets)
 
If the dowels have come loose again it means one of two things - either the wood that they are in is cracked or otherwise damaged or that the joints are contaminated. Did you clean off all the old glue before you reglued? The instructions should always say that glue should be used on a clean, dry surfaces. If all you have done is to add glue onto an existing joint which has old glue on it then it can fail again. Time for Plan B? (brackets)


The brackets are on the way , I'll be using 8. 4 for front and 4 at the back.
 

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