Is there a tool that will allow me to...

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... cut decking boards that are tight to a wall? In other words, my decking boards are in contact with my garage wall ABOVE the damp proof layer. It's a single-skin garage wall, and I've now noticed some damp coming through on the inside of the garage.

I therefore want to take about 10mm off the boards, all the way along the edge that butts up to the wall. Problem is, the decking boards have been nailed down with a nail gun (rather than screwed down) and are therefore a pain to get up. Just to be clear, the decking boards do not run parallel to the wall, they're perpendicular - i.e. I'd need to take up about 20 boards, not just one! Therefore need something that will let me get a cut really tight to the wall.

I thought that maybe there would be some sort of circular saw attachment I could get for an electric drill that might do it (like a bigger version of the circular saws for a dremmel), but can't seem to find one. Anyone got any bright ideas?

Many thanks
 
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A biscuit jointer would get you part of the way but not the full depth, the type circular saws that run on tracks are reputed to cut close to edges there is cheap one on the market for less than £200 I think its called a woodster other than that its a nice sharp rip saw say at least 8 tpi and a sturdy pair of gloves
 
You could try onf of the multitools like the Bosch PMF 180
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-PMF-1...OXV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1350916906&sr=8-1

That said, i'm pretty sure my circular saw will let me cut down as little as 6mm off an edge. With saw fence butted up and running along the wall, i would have thought that would allow you to do it.
If you have nails where you want to cut the wood then maybe look at the evolution circular saw?
 
Screw a piece of 12-18mm timber to the end of the boards next to the wall as a guide and use a saw.

Andy
 
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Take a board up at the edge and infill with shingle to just below dpc, 10mm of the edge will achieve nothing.
 
Thanks All for the suggestions. I quite fancy buying a plunge saw, just to add another power tool to the collection. But might be a bit of overkill for what I'm trying to do!

Will check my circular saw to see how close it could get, otherwise use the hand-saw method with guide screwed along boards.

Will also use some lead flashing in case splashback still causes the problem.

Thanks again!
 
Hear! Hear! B-A has made a very valid point. An angle grinder isn't a circular saw; it runs way too fast for a saw blade, has limited guarding and no baseplate. You'd have to be completely mental to use on this way IMHO
 

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