Is this how to change Sacrificial Anode in my cylinder?

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Hello,

Have an Ariston Contract STD 210 cylinder which is 3 years old and needs a new pro tech anode as I noticed the warning light was on the other day and when I inspected it the whole connection has corroded so much that the connection has actually broken off now. According to the part list (http://www.ariston.com/uk/Homeowner/media/files/659_Contract_STD_125_150_210_Protech.pdf) the part I need is 340407 (number 11 on that parts list). It's available in various places online such as: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ariston-3...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item46242c037a

So that's all fine. Only thing I'm not sure about is that all the ones I can find online have a hex shape in which to screw it in to the mounting in the cylinder whereas the one in my cylinder doesn't have that, it just has 2 flat parts on the purple end of it, here is a picture of mine: https://www.mediafire.com/?ard5mghl43b8ymy
Do I just grab that purple end with a pliers and twist it out? What way will it come out, clockwise or anti?

Also if any one knows as well, how do I know where the dial on an Ariston 340 3kW Immersion Heater Thermostat is at 60 degrees C? It just has a negative and positive but no where in the manuals tell me what that temperature range is and what the temperature is in the middle.. ?

Thanks!
 
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I dont think you'll get much advice on this, to work on an unvented cylinder you need to be certificated.
 
You might like to get a heads up by looking at the: waterheaterrescue.com forum, where you will find all about anodes - or anything else water heater.Perhaps mail your question and pics to them?

You appear to have a powered anode, and (after the usual safety precautions) they are typically pulled from the unit with an appropriate size socket.

Given that you have a plastic anode, i should be cautious about strong arming it out, or using pliers. If you cannot obtain a socket then some kind of spanner/wrench would be the next best tool - anodes can sometimes be unbelievably tight to move.

Examine the sacrificial rod condition when the anode has been freed.

I say the above with the presumption that a qualified, experienced person will undertake any of the advice.
 
As I stated on a more superior forum; you need a Plumber qualified with a G3 ticket to work on your unit. This is not a DIY job.
HTH
 
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Can you provide a reference to where it staes DIY work can not be carried out on an unvented cylinder?
 
And that was written by who? Doesn't look like an official document to me. Besides the op isn't installing a cylinder he's just replacing an anode.
 
And that was written by who? Doesn't look like an official document to me. Besides the op isn't installing a cylinder he's just replacing an anode.

It was the BBA that policed unvented cylinder installation & maintenance.
Should your post not read 'by whom'. Perhaps English formal education has not reached the Dales yet??
 
So you can't actually find anything that says the op can't replace his own anode then. Typical scaremongering from lying plumbers trying to drum up extra work for themselves.

You even have to try and criticise my grammar as you have nothing else to say. 'whom' is not a word used in Yorkshire. We're simple folk.
 
Try reading the instructions. Most state you have to be competent.

How does one prove competence.

Anyway, this argument has been drive to death. People low toy won't be told; although I'm sure you'll get a bee in your arris if certain electrical tasks are carried out by those who haven't demostrated ;)
 
The HSE definition of a competent person:

http://www.hse.gov.uk/involvement/competentperson.htm

If anyone thinks they are a competent person and still wish to carry out work be it gas, unvented, electrics, etc. then I say "Crack on, but please inform me that you've been playing around before you ask me to come and sort out the mess."

James.
 

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