Is this trade standard concrete patching...

Perhaps go overit with a mortar slurry to fill in the visible pockets and help stop the edges breaking up if you aren't going to do anything more drastic about it now - if it's concrete "with gaps" then filling in the gaps with what they would be filled with in normal concrete (item sand and cement) would get it looking more like normal concrete.
 
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...then will pop off at the first sign of frost.

It would be better to leave it if it's not going to be replaced with solid concrete.
 
Looks like whackered Type 1 which will probably be a temporary surface until they return with concrete. It is standard practice with water board reinstatement works to have a separate contractor to do the finishing. However, I would double check to make sure they are coming back. If not, it isn't sufficient.
 
It's dark grey, MOT is normally light grey or white, occasionally brownish. I think it's a semi-dry concrete mix, or type 1 with added cement.

It may well be someone's definition of finished.

I had a similar situation when our water meter was installed, but the sub-base was left recessed ready for the concrete team that followed later, with a metal board over it to prevent anyone breaking their ankle.

It would be interesting to hear the outcome on this - has a complaint been made, and what's been said?
 
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No complaint made. I am not pleased. They are finished. Am also the last person to not kick up a fuss....
If I had read the contract I would have seen their blurb. Says they do not finish, just fill. As mentioned already, that actual blurb is word for word same as some regular big firms.

But, yes...., we had a few repairs to the pipe over the years and they ALL did pretty good jobs of returning the surface to as 'was' with good wet concrete that was trowelled neatly.
And, they were not the cheapest. They were on the watersafe list of contractors.

I suppose I am pleased they didn't fill it with tyres or offal. I hope it doesn't sink. I am just pleased they did run a whacker in the trench

So, yeah,...it looks sh*t. I will probably have to dig down 6 inches and pour some proper concrete myself.

You live and learn.
 
It shouldn't need settlement, it looks very well compacted already, and breaking it out will inevitably loosen it anyway.

It looks like a driveway, so I'd go with 4-6 inches. Give it a good whacking with a compactor (or sledge hammer on-end). Give the edges of the existing a good wash with a hose just before, to clean the muck off. Ensure it's wet before you lay the new concrete.

For real certainty you could let it dry then blather the edges with SBR. Just be careful to not spill on the face, or you'll have wet-look patches for ever. Keep a sheet of something under where you're working.

You could wipe the surface with a sponge the day after laying, to expose the aggregate and help it blend in with the surroundings.

Sad that some are such cowboys. Consider it an exciting adventure and exercise opportunity!
 
It shouldn't need settlement, it looks very well compacted already, and breaking it out will inevitably loosen it anyway.
The problem with deep fills is that they can look well compacted, but below isn't. They are supposed to be wacked every 6 inches, but this doesn't normally get done. They often find with road repairs that it will sink a bit in the first 6 months. For concrete floors a maximum fill of 600mm is allowed before block and beam is required.
 
Yes, you're right. It's narrower than the wacker plate so very unlikely to have been done in layers.

I've got one of these for these sort of jobs...


But be careful if you're getting close to that new water pipe. But it should be well down from the surface to give the required frost cover anyway.
 

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