I've not seen this waste setup before - how to relocate sink?

[Hugh Jaleak]

Yes, expose as much of that plastic collar as you can, but be very careful, the clayware is brittle and you really dont want to risk cracking it. Once you've cleared enough, I'd run a hacksaw through the 'Lip' on the collar, this should then split and open up, allowing the seal to release a bit and the collar to come off the pipe without risk of damage.

Id then find a suitable sized Flexseal coupler to go from the clayware to 110mm plastic, carry on horizontally to your end point, then fit a 90° bend, and a suitable adaptor to accept the waste pipes.

If you cannot get the 62.5 mm of fall across that distance, then it can be reduced but no less than 1:100, or you will have issues.

 

[liftfan]

Yes, expose as much of that plastic collar as you can, but be very careful, the clayware is brittle and you really dont want to risk cracking it. Once you've cleared enough, I'd run a hacksaw through the 'Lip' on the collar, this should then split and open up, allowing the seal to release a bit and the collar to come off the pipe without risk of damage.

Id then find a suitable sized Flexseal coupler to go from the clayware to 110mm plastic, carry on horizontally to your end point, then fit a 90° bend, and a suitable adaptor to accept the waste pipes.

If you cannot get the 62.5 mm of fall across that distance, then it can be reduced but no less than 1:100, or you will have issues.

Oh dear. It cracked! That concrete was just too strong a mix!

Are these any good underground to connect into the clay pipe:

 

[Madrab]

They work better when there's a good fall on the run or they're fitted vertically. That being said it may be your best shot at getting a good seal in that clay pipe. If you try to expose more of that clay you'll probably find it'll just crack on you again so an external coupler isn't viable and the internal coupler may be the only option.

Clean the clay well and use a little soap to help the fins fit if it's too tight as you'll want that coupler fully home.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

The Fernco 'Icon' coupling might be another option, will fit more easily in the available space, without you needing to break too much additional concrete and risking further damage to the pipe.

 

[liftfan]

The Fernco 'Icon' coupling might be another option, will fit more easily in the available space, without you needing to break too much additional concrete and risking further damage to the pipe.

View attachment 317412

Didn't know you could get those thanks.

 

[liftfan]

They work better when there's a good fall on the run or they're fitted vertically. That being said it may be your best shot at getting a good seal in that clay pipe. If you try to expose more of that clay you'll probably find it'll just crack on you again so an external coupler isn't viable and the internal coupler may be the only option.

Clean the clay well and use a little soap to help the fins fit if it's too tight as you'll want that coupler fully home.

Will do Ta.

 

[liftfan]

I bought the McAlpine and it looks like it's a good fit with enough clearance around so I think I'll use that.

Just thinking about how to connect the 40mm waste. What's the best option here:

1. Boss is on awkward angle but maybe use some CT1 instead of solvent weld?

2. Waste in at the end with the 90 degree bend towards the horizontal. No boss just entry at the end.

3. With a waste in from the top with a bend in the waste pipe.

 

[liftfan]

I've only got 140mm from the top of the clay pipe to the floor level so I also have to account for some screed/concrete on top - say 50mm. That only gives 90mm of height to get the boss on hence I'm looking at different options.

How about this one (end pipe to be cut and plugged.

 

[Madrab]

Without going and checking the uplift from a single socket bend then that would be my choice, straight off the end of that pipe and then inset a 50mm adapter in the end of the bend. Where is this soil pipe end supposed to terminate? If you don't have the height can it terminate above ground level under a cabinet?

Wouldn't use one of those soft adapters BTW, they are lousy as a long term solution.

 

[liftfan]

Without going and checking the uplift from a single socket bend then that would be my choice, straight off the end of that pipe and then inset a 50mm adapter in the end of the bend. Where is this soil pipe end supposed to terminate? If you don't have the height can it terminate above ground level under a cabinet?

View attachment 317496
Wouldn't use one of those soft adapters BTW, they are lousy as a long term solution.

Not sure what other option I have apart from the soft adapter. Given that below is gravel and under that bricks and under that sand I'm thinking any minor leaks and it'll just drain away. No DPM in sight and after all these years everywhere is dry as a bone!

I had to make a decision so did as shown below. Since that picture this morning I've cut the channel so too late to change it. I'd would take a picture but it's beer o'clock!

 

[Madrab]

If you are going with the DC1 then you want to connect that to the clay then an 110mm SS bend, that'll to give you the vertical then just push fit the 110mm to 50mm end that was pictured. Then it's just a solvent weld a 50mm pipe into the top of it. If you leave the single socket level with the finished floor level then the 50mm adapter end could be well greased to ensure it is removeable for cleaning/clearing in the case of a blockage.

What height is there from the bottom of the DC1/clay to what would be the finished floor level? I know a single socket is about 200mm from the bottom of the bend to the top of the socket.

 

[liftfan]

If you are going with the DC1 then you want to connect that to the clay then an 110mm SS bend, that'll to give you the vertical then just push fit the 110mm to 50mm end that was pictured. Then it's just a solvent weld a 50mm pipe into the top of it. If you leave the single socket level with the finished floor level then the 50mm adapter end could be well greased to ensure it is removeable for cleaning/clearing in the case of a blockage.

What height is there from the bottom of the DC1/clay to what would be the finished floor level? I know a single socket is about 200mm from the bottom of the bend to the top of the socket.

It's about 250mm from to FLL.

I tried all the combinations in the hole (..Ohh.. you are awful!), but the one in the pictures below seems to have worked out with just the right amount of fall, plus room to get a cap on below FFL. Just need to depeen the channel a bit more. I'm also going to put a rodding point under the sink base unit accessible through a hole in the base of the unit.


Next question. How do I fill the hole and the channel?

I was going to use a bed of pea shingle, then a bit of DPM around the main body, then a weakish mix off 8 to 1 concrete. With screed on top.

Then fill the channel with liquid screed.

I want a fast drying screed as well. How about the stuff shown below?

 

[Madrab]

Ah ok, didn't understand what you were actually doing with the waste pipe. I presumed it was dropping straight down into the soil pipe, not then be channelled into the floor and ran another 3 odd m. Are you leaving the blank end accessible in the case of blockages?

 

[liftfan]

There will be an upstand against the wall at the end with a horizontal to the sink waste and I'm going to put a T in as circled below with a capped access accessible through a hole in the base of the sink unit. Hopefully!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I would, in all seriousness, put a 45° Rodding access on the end of the 100mm. It can be covered over with flooring, but will be there should it ever be needed. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast...zj-Se6qwLxjZSjHnDPxoCblgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds