KENWOOD DISHWASHER KDW12SL3A PROBLEM

I didnt want to tip mine in case water was in somewhere that would spill out.

Regarding the capacitor I just removed it, no problem. I would guess the fact that your machine doesn't work probably means the capacitor is not storing a charge now.

Please note when you get the new one it does not matter which wire goes on which terminal for this type of capacitor.
 
Sponsored Links
I didnt want to tip mine in case water was in somewhere that would spill out.

Regarding the capacitor I just removed it, no problem. I would guess the fact that your machine doesn't work probably means the capacitor is not storing a charge now.

Please note when you get the new one it does not matter which wire goes on which terminal for this type of capacitor.

Thanks again. The replacement came with 2 pairs of terminals. Do I just leave the extra terminals exposed?
 
I’d first of all like to thank everyone who’s posted on here.
I have a KDW60 which packed up in June this year. Bout 3 yrs old and to be honest not the greatest purchase I’ve ever made. following advice I got a replacement start/run capacitor on eBay which has given us 4 months of further life.
However the same issue has recurred again. Have a feeling there is an underlying issue causing the capacitor to blow. Possibly switching relay or motor problem. The first replacement came via fleabay and was Chinese made. The second replacement I’ve got from RS components. It’s a Ducati version manufactured in Romania. Both similar price at around £5.50. Will be fitting it tomorrow and crossing fingers it gets me into next year.
When I purchased this dishwasher I actually thought Kenwood was a reputable brand. Having had my eyes opened by what I’ve learned here I shan’t make that mistake again.
 
Sponsored Links
I would suggest the Ducati one is far a more reliable item than the cheap Chinese copy. They were making electronic components long before they made Motorbikes.
 
Swapped out the start run capacitor today for second time and no good. Still humming without circulating motor pump engaging
Bit of searching reveals new pump around £90. Further research tells me I could buy this dishwasher new for £189. Just for my own amusement I’ve dismantled the pump and found no problem with it. Could be a switching issue but I’m no electrician and bored with it now. I prefer to fix things if possible but sense a new Samsung dishwasher will be on its way soon.
 
Unfortunately the capacitor change didn't fix my issue and it was also still humming. I had high hopes =P. Thanks to everyone's help and BJW64 in particular. Will just get a new one at this point.
 
Hopefully my final post on this issue. Wasn’t happy with myself giving up so easily so had a closer look at the parts I’d dismantled. Having taken the circulating pump off and not found any problem with it I looked closer at the plastic impeller. It was in two pieces. Unsure about it I looked at the replacement part online and found it should be a single piece. I’ll put a couple of pics up to show this. I’d always suspected a secondary issue causing the start/run capacitor to blow. Ordered replacement impeller from e-spares for £5.50 and fitted it today. Awkward to reattach the pump motor and O-ring seal. First attempt led to E4 code as O-ring had slipped and not sealed Properly. Second attempt was successful and low and behold I now have a working dishwasher again.
Why a part like this should fail so catastrophically in under 4 yrs is a mystery.
Again I’d like to thank previous posters on this forum , and if this helps anyone else then it’s a good thing. My albeit crap dishwasher has received a stay of execution from the dump for the foreseeable future.
 

Attachments

  • FB7AD465-35E7-4A28-A923-17C4C23B54A9.jpeg
    FB7AD465-35E7-4A28-A923-17C4C23B54A9.jpeg
    481.6 KB · Views: 246
  • DE5325FC-5015-4F32-B138-99C02EBDEF8D.jpeg
    DE5325FC-5015-4F32-B138-99C02EBDEF8D.jpeg
    328.6 KB · Views: 257
Last edited:
Wow i didnt see the posts on here since my original reply. Ducati was the capacitor i used and I never had to replace it again. The original tell tale that the factory capacitor had failed was it had a very obvious bulge on the side (a bit like a bulbous growth!). Both the factory capacitor and the ducati replacement were plastic ones. I also didnt realise 'kenwood' dishwashers were still being sold in 2017! I had to get rid of mine in 2013 as the racks rusted to buggery and would have costed half the cost of a new kenwood. Bought a neff and am back on diynot after 8 years as that is now playing up so im searching for a fix......keep fixing your stuff everyone!!
 
Hi. I wanted to post in this thread, primarily to thank all who posted their knowledge and experience. My dishwasher Kenwood KDW60x15 had similar symptoms: when started it would drain/pump but then not progress to spin/spray water. I opened up the bottom plastic panel held by clips that you can lever to open. My model didn't seem to spill much water when I turned it on its side. Be careful not to rush to move the bottom panel to far once unclipped as it has some wires attached. Anyway, there is enough slack in the wires to prop the panel out of the way to give access. I removed the capacitor 3uF same details as others have posted. Ordered a replacement online. As explained by BJW64 capacitors with two posts per terminal is ok (thankyou) and this is what my replacement part has. Also as per BJW64 that this particular type of capacitor does not have explicit polarity so I could connect either wire to either terminal. Dishwasher now working again. Feel glad that it didn't go to landfill/reclaim unnecessarily. Thanks again to previous contributors.
 
Last edited:
Hi Guys N' Gals.

Sorry to dig this old post up, but no matter how far I google (it's been hours), this thread seems to be the bible as it describes exactly the issue I'm having with my dishwasher.

So it ran fine on Thursday, but on Friday it starts the cycle perfectly, drains the water, then fills again, then the humming/buzzing noise begins and the fan/rotor inside doesn't spin, so the dishwasher stands with water in it, buzzing away and after a time the soap tablet drops in.....so think I've got what some of you Guys mention.

I've dragged the damned thing out, laid it on it's side (due to lack of space in the kitchen more than by choice), mopped up the bucketfull of water that gushed out of it and have taken a picture of the guts of the beast.

I'm guessing the pump and the capacitor bolted to the side, but just after two bits of advice really if you don't mind.

1) Some of you mention freeing up the pump by sticking a screwdriver in and rotating it......can you show me WHERE I'd do this, I don't just want to start sticking metal in the many holes and making it worse.

2) can someone please check over the photos of the capacitor and point me in the direction of WHERE I order one from please?, not sure what to even look for.

The Model is Kenwood KDW60B16/A

Many thanks all, I've washed up 5 times today, like a Caveman.....mild green Fairy Liquid is doing nothing for me.

Rich
 

Attachments

  • 20240629_121304.jpg
    20240629_121304.jpg
    213.1 KB · Views: 46
  • 20240711_172322.jpg
    20240711_172322.jpg
    291.8 KB · Views: 40
  • 20240711_172332.jpg
    20240711_172332.jpg
    237.1 KB · Views: 38
  • 20240711_172339.jpg
    20240711_172339.jpg
    208.7 KB · Views: 40
  • 20240711_172433.jpg
    20240711_172433.jpg
    201.1 KB · Views: 42
  • 20240711_211022.jpg
    20240711_211022.jpg
    233 KB · Views: 44
1) Some of you mention freeing up the pump by sticking a screwdriver in and rotating it......can you show me WHERE I'd do this, I don't just want to start sticking metal in the many holes and making it worse.

Make sure it is unplugged from the socket, first!

If not obvious, that is your motor, in your third photo, and the pump is to the left of it - the white cased item, with a black rubber pipe exiting it.

In the middle of the motor, is the rotor, it's shaft directly drives that pump. The idea is to simply see if that rotor, and the pump, are free to turn. You should be able to push it round, carefully, with a screwdriver. If not it is jammed up with debris. It looks as if the way to access the pump impeller, might be to loosen that white casing, by turning it. If not, you may need to cut that clamp, to remove the pipe, then refit with a jubilee clip..

If it proves to be free to turn, the it's probably worth buying a replacement capacitor - just search for parts the make and model, on Ebay.
 
Thanks for that, I'll try spinning the rotor to free it up.

The capacitor has proven impossible to buy. Everywhere I look they have 4 connectors on top instead of the two, do you think that'll matter?

Got this one in my hands:

Fixapart W1 – 11003 N Capacitor https://amzn.eu/d/0dhEiQy2

But not sure if I should try it as the outgoing model only has two connectors on top, this has 4.....

I found one in China.... But a delivery date of August 2024.
 
The capacitor has proven impossible to buy. Everywhere I look they have 4 connectors on top instead of the two, do you think that'll matter?

Got this one in my hands:

Fixapart W1 – 11003 N Capacitor https://amzn.eu/d/0dhEiQy2

If the terminals are connected as two together, in pairs, it doesn't matter - just use one terminal of each pair. What does matter is the voltage and the capacitance value being correct.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top