Kitchen Appliances Power

[JohnW2]

Even better, I bought and fitted a battery operated temperature display, with alarm. It is very versatile, settable to alarm on temperature rise or fall, at a programmable temperature. I have the sensor stuck to the inner wall of the freezer, with the display stuck to the outside and set to alarm at >13C. It updates every minute and if above 13C it bleeps loudly several times, once per minute.

Yes, I have similar on all my freezers, with alarms wired to the 'paging facility' of my intercom system, so that I can hear them all over the house. Similarly with 'flood' detectors in selected places and 'continuous water flow' alarms. Do I take it that you mean -13 C?

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

@JohnW2 mentioned 2.4hrs, I dont think your 20 minutes is comparable.

Whilst that's true, I was talking about 3kW for that 2.4h. At eric's 24 kW, it ought to be about 18 minutes!

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

A torch can quickly go flat, so then you have no indication...

Even better, I bought and fitted a battery operated temperature display, with alarm. It is very versatile, settable to alarm on temperature rise or fall, at a programmable temperature. I have the sensor stuck to the inner wall of the freezer, with the display stuck to the outside and set to alarm at >13C. It updates every minute and if above 13C it bleeps loudly several times, once per minute.

I once accidentality left the door ajar, so bought this gadget. It even triggers if SWMBO spends a little too long putting things in, or out. Cost was around £8 delivered from China, from Ebay.

I did the same thing with a fridge that often got left open {eventally realisted it wasn't standing level and magtetic seal wasn't strong enough to pull door closed} and it had an external alarm connexion so added a piezo buzzer in the lounge. it scared the tihs out of the kids when it went off and they ran to close the door before they got blamed again.

 

[SUNRAY]

Being aware of Legionaires disease I've always set my tank stats to >70'C. My first house I installed a SH Potterton 60,000BTU with cylinder directly above it using 28mm copper gravity fed. With just HW [ie not CH]it would run continuously and stop, guessing ambient as 20'C, for <1/2hr and more like 15 mins in summer. Cycling would be a couple of mins tops every hour or so.
Running a bath the boiler would fire again quite quickly and only run for about 5 mins after turning off hot tap.

With CH running the HW valve would be open for maybe an hour if CH called for heat that long. But since then I've been more aware of water flow and realise the pump may have been pushing the CH water round the cylinder in the wrong direction despite using different tappings on the boilet.

 

[JohnW2]

Being aware of Legionaires disease I've always set my tank stats to >70'C.

I hope that you don't live in a particularly hard water part of the world

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

I hope that you don't live in a particularly hard water part of the world

Kind Regards, John

Oh yes I do, it's a PITA but knowing of 2 deaths from Legionella...

 

[JohnW2]

Oh yes I do, it's a PITA but knowing of 2 deaths from Legionella...

I think 60 °C is high enough to keep Legionella at bay - that's certainly the (minimum) figure that HSE recommends (although many other sources seem to say 50 °C), and the difference between that and 70 °C has quite a marked impact on the rate of limescale deposition.

Perhaps more difficult if you have a water storage tank in a roofspace is ensuring that the water in it always remains under 20 °C.

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

I think 60 °C is high enough to keep Legionella at bay - that's certainly the (minimum) figure that HSE recommends (although many other sources seem to say 50 °C), and the difference between that and 70 °C has quite a marked impact on the rate of limescale deposition.

Perhaps more difficult if you have a water storage tank in a roofspace is ensuring that the water in it always remains under 20 °C.

Kind Regards, John

When I was first aware of the issue the figure bandied about was >70°C and the rules that apply to many of the places I've worked are <15 or >65°C.70-75 or even higher is regularly the soultion to ensure it's still >65°by the time it gets to the taps even when running recirc pumps.
One becomes very concious of some of these rules when working elbow deep in the resavoirs of 20ft high rooftop chiller cooling towers.

 

[JohnW2]

When I was first aware of the issue the figure bandied about was >70°C and the rules that apply to many of the places I've worked are <15 or >65°C.70-75 or even higher is regularly the soultion to ensure it's still >65°by the time it gets to the taps even when running recirc pumps.

I think that the current HSE recommendations are that hot water should be stored (where applicable) at ≥60 °C and delivered (to taps or shower mixers etc.) at ≥50 °C, and that the cold water should be both stored (where applicable) and delivered at <20 °C.

Having said that, I suspect that there is probably not an appreciable risk in a domestic environment unless one has a jacuzzi/suchlike and/or certain types of air conditioning.

Kind Regards, John