I want to replace the kitchen tap tails with the flexi type. Is there any way to identify the tail size without physically measuring the threads in the mono block? The narrow part of the copper tail is 12mm O.D. Thanks.
Kitchen tap tail size
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M10 and M12 are usually the size. Could you isolate one and take it with you?
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Why do you want to change them? The ones you have are better than flexi types
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I need to replace the flexi's below them. There doesn't seem to be a reason to keep them. Space limitations also means I can have the flexi straight rather than kinked as now.
Oh I see - I was too busy looking at the copper tap tails and didn't even see the flexi's below. Strange place to have flexi pipes - should be rigid pipe - either plastic or copper.
The reason to keep the copper tails is that they have a larger bore than most flexi's that and they won't corrode, twist or burst, things that flexi's have been known to do.
The reason to keep the copper tails is that they have a larger bore than most flexi's that and they won't corrode, twist or burst, things that flexi's have been known to do.
Flexi's are used because things don't line up. How do you connect the copper tails to the pipes then?
Here are the new flexi's with no stress on them. Bursting from mains is certainly a risk, and the pressure seems high even after the extra restriction in screwfix's tails.
Messing with the pipes resulted in a mini leak, 2-3 drops a day. There's not much room to work with. How best can this leak be fixed? Dealing with that will risk opening leaks in the other old joints.
Flexi pipes are used to make it easy to DIY plumbing work, but TBH it's pretty straightforward to set the pipe out to allow the copper tails to line up quite easily - The supply pipes should be clipped to the back panel and in such an orientation where the copper pipe tails can then be shaped and will then fit into 2 ISO valves.
It's difficult if working with old compression fittings and pipe, as they can be prone to leaking. If reusing old fittings, nuts and olives then always use some PTFE tape around the olive, to seal them back up again.
Flexi pipe like this?
The problem with the fittings I got is that if I fix one, the next one will start to leak. It will get nasty if any unreachable ones begin to leak. Brass olives were used. Those would damage the pipe sections. I have new fitting, pipes, and copper olives. Disassembling the whole thing seems risky. Two pipes going into the back are cold side . The third is hot side and separate.
The problem with the fittings I got is that if I fix one, the next one will start to leak. It will get nasty if any unreachable ones begin to leak. Brass olives were used. Those would damage the pipe sections. I have new fitting, pipes, and copper olives. Disassembling the whole thing seems risky. Two pipes going into the back are cold side . The third is hot side and separate.
They are a great alternative for a DIY'er just be careful when shaping. They would allow the connections to be made to the copper tap tails if they are out,. There is also something to be said for plastic in this scenario as that would give the flexibility too.
As someone that does this stuff all the time, it wouldn't be an issue to get some benders and the torch out, replace all those compression with soldered fittings and then bend a couple of offsets to take the tap tails but again I've been doing this stuff for a while so obviously would be easier for me.
As someone that does this stuff all the time, it wouldn't be an issue to get some benders and the torch out, replace all those compression with soldered fittings and then bend a couple of offsets to take the tap tails but again I've been doing this stuff for a while so obviously would be easier for me.
With my confidence in compression fittings totally shattered, I am coming to the conclusion I need soldering. But, learning soldering on full mains pressure gives no margin for error. I might learn it for another sizeable task I need to do that is subject to loft tank pressure. If that is successful, I could then do the mains stuff.
The beauty of soldering is though that it slowly on with the water and check all the time, if a soldered fitting hasn't taken it'll tell you pretty quickly. You could also start with using yorkies as they have the solder already present, so it's just > get the pipe clean > right amount of flux > right amount of heat for the right amount of time then check for the ring of solder appearing at the top of the fitting, cool it down and then clean and the job's done.
Confidence comes with time.
Confidence comes with time.
One step at a time! Got myself a beginner pipe bender for giggles. Will be needing some cheater bars. With this, hopefully I will be able to remove the compression elbow hanging off the cold tail. I want to terminate compression fittings with great prejudice.
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Have a look at some YT videos, some good ones out there
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