Just to be fair - there's actually nothing wrong with compression, it has it's place, especially where pipework may need to be demounted to get access to things and then remade again.One step at a time! Got myself a beginner pipe bender for giggles. Will be needing some cheater bars. With this, hopefully I will be able to remove the compression elbow hanging off the cold tail. I want to terminate compression fittings with great prejudice.
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Yes I understand. There's no room to do anything except full disassembly. Sealing the threads will have to do.Oh dear - redo them and get the PTFE tape off of the threads of the fittings - that's not where it supposed to be, the water tight seal isn't made at the threads - tape only goes around the olives and no where else as that's where the seal is made.
Fair enough and I do understand the thinking but honestly, it doesn't do anything. Compression fittings don't create the water seal at the threads, they create it at either end of the olive. Loosening and tightening the nut will have been what's eventually sat the olive down and sealed it up.Sealing the threads will have to do.
The olives, once compressed, wont ever slide on the pipework. They are compressed between the fluted edge of the body of the coupler and the fluted edge on the inside top of the nut as you tighten it, being compressed and shaped between the 2 and the surface of the pipe. That's why the olive is the shape it is. It's those fluted edges and the ends of the olives that mesh and compress together onto the pipe that forms the water tight seal.I can see some of these problems are caused by wonky olives. The olives not freely sliding on the pipe during compression would cause that.
OK. But I would use it. It would remove that horror movie door squeal noise that indicates olive binding.I must have fitted hundreds of compression fittings over the time I've been doing this and have never ever used a lubricant, It's just not something that's ever needed.
That's not the olive binding lol, that's the tightening squeak, that's when you know you've tightened the compression nut enough and all the surfaces are nicely mated. That's a tried and tested old school indicator that the compression fitting has been tightened properly and when to stop, it's certainly more noticeable when using brass olives than copper.It would remove that horror movie door squeal noise that indicates olive binding.
Well, if you grease the inside of the olive, you will not get that noise. Try it and see. You will get a tightening smooth as baby's bottom.That's not the olive binding lol, that's the tightening squeak, that's when you know you've tightened the compression nut enough and all the surfaces are nicely mated. That's a tried and tested old school indicator that the compression fitting has been tightened properly and when to stop, it's certainly more noticeable when using brass olives than copper.
Try it on a piece of waste pipe first.Will this work for 22mm pipe soldering?
I only have 15mm pipes and fittings laying around. I could try those. I will be needing to do 22mm's for better pressure upstairs.Try it on a piece of waste pipe first.
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