kitchen units directly on to thermalite

Any sort of planed square edge stuff from Wickes will be fine - minimum thickness of around 20mm though really. They also sell it in single lengths. Squint down the length so you can see if its warped.
You'll also get smaller packs of screws there - they won't be Spax but the sizes are the same and they will do fine.
Countersink the drilled holes in your bearer so the screw heads are just below the surface.....you'll probably find they will pull their own heads in anyway. The drilled holes in the bearer should be the same size as the screw shank so the screw will just pass through.
John :)
 
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Thanks again John, grateful for the support.

Confused about installing the battern. If the battern is 2 inches think, doesn't the screw I use need to be 2 inches longer accordingly? Otherwise it wont go through the plug in the wall and cause it to expand.

Or have I misunderstood this altogether?
 
Absolutely correct (2" thick bearer is over doing it a bit)......the screw has to pass through the bearer, and enter deep into the plug in the wall.
So, if the bearer is 2" thick, and the plug is also 2" deep, you'll need 4" screws.
Go for a thinner bearer and 2 1/2" or 3" screws, I think. You can always drill a deeper countersink in the bearer you know - but this is technically called a 'counterbore'.
John :)
 
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You don't think 2 x 1 inch is too thick?

What size would you guys use generally for this sort of thing?

I haven't bought any of the materials yet so free to choose anything at this point.

Thanks for the help.

Edit:
Just noticed in John's first post on this thread you suggested 2 x 1 inch.
Will get whatever you think is best.
 
2x1 is fine.

As fitted to the wall that's 2" high and 1" deep / thick. Perhaps you're thinking of it the wrong way around?
 
Yes I was thinking of it the other way round and now realise how daft I was being.

Just one more thing (for now anyway ;) )
In what order do I do things here?
Do I mount the battern first at height i want bottom of cabinet and THEN measure up for the position of the mounting brackets?

Or do I mount the units via the mounting brackets, adjust the height screws so that they are slightly higher than level I want, then mount supporting brace and adjust the height screws again so that the unit drops down onto the beam?

You might have guessed I've not done this before!
 
If your cabinets are conventionally fixed, that is you can see the top mounting hole from inside of the cabinet, then fix the bearer first.....this will allow you to balance the cabinets on the bearer (with an assistant) whilst the position for the top holes are marked through, onto the wall.
John :)
 
OK thanks guys.
Will give this a go at the weekend.

Will report back when finished (or more likely when it starts going wrong, and I don't know my next move!! :LOL: )
 
Update:
Job done! Cupboards are up. And seem to be staying up!
Did things as John suggested; used a supporting beam below the units and then secured at the top via the mounting brackets.
I also secured each unit with two fixings at the bottom just for extra security.

All looks OK. Not perfect as a couple of units have a bit of a gap between them. But that's down to difficulty of drilling accurately into aerated block.

So conclusion is that this sort of block is rubbish for drilling and mounting. But do-able.

Many thanks for all the help and advice. John, you were like my personal mentor on this.
:D
 
I'm glad I was absolutely no help at all :LOL:

Yeah, you were pretty much useless!! :p

Ha ha!!

Seriously, I'm grateful for your help too - most appreciated.

Now, who wants to take me on as their apprentice?!?!? :eek:


:D
 

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