LABC boys love a shower.

[atm]

Just putting in a new shower myself and have the LABC coming round for a cuppa before i go ahead.

8.5kw. NO room on the existing board. So going for dedicated mini shower cu with 40amp RCD and 40amp mcb.

100amp main fuse. i am coming from meter into Henley. then 25mm tails to existing CU and 25mm tails to new CU. Shower is 5 meters away so using 10mm t&e to shower via a DP cord switch.
Gas is bonded but water is not so will do this in 10mm and earth clamp and run all the way back to the MET block. Stop cock is 18 meters away.. oh joy.

The extraneous conductive parts in the bathroom are also not bonded so using 4mm with earth clamps starting at radiator, toilet cold feed, hot and cold on basin and tub and ending up in the earth of the shower or the DP switch.

Just checking this is ok depends on if i give the LABC guy a tesc0 value borbon with his cuppa or a foxes.

look forward to hearing from you

many thanks
atm

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Sounds fine, as long as the cable route & installation method complies...

How do you propose to isolate the supply so that you can mess with the tails?

 

[atm]

thanks BAS new you woul dget back to me..appreciate that. was just a little concerned re bonding sizes. but checked my red book and 4mm for sup and 10mm for main appears to be correct..

Isolation!... fuse fairy cut seal before i started.. apart from calling supplier cant see way round it..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Isolation!... fuse fairy cut seal before i started.. apart from calling supplier cant see way round it..

Hmmmmmm.

 

[sm1thson]

Isolation!... fuse fairy cut seal before i started.. apart from calling supplier cant see way round it..

all very well assuming you know what your doing (And its not a metal cutout etc) but what are you going to tell Mr BCO?

 

[Chri5]

Why not move the 1st floor lighting circuit (hopefully the only circuit in the bathroom) on to the new CU with the RCD and then avoid the need to do the supplementary bonding

 

[atm]

will mr bco get the hump about the main fuse?

"metal cut out"?

 

[sparkyspike]

I don't think he'll even ask about that. If he does, then you'll need to get DNO to fit an isolator (are you sure there isn't one on your meter?)

If you are determined to let the fuse-fairy disconnect for you, then ask them to disconnect the tails from the meter with VDE tools rather than pulling the fuse. And remind the fuse-fairy to isolate the CU first.

 

[Click-Sure]

Your not advocating working live are you spike?

I'd suggest you need more than just VDE tools for that kind of caper!

 

[sparkyspike]

Of course not, absolutely not...

But if the fuse-fairy is going to do it then that's fine, because they can hover in the air with no contact with earth, plus they're immortal.

 

[Chri5]

Immortal or immoral

 

[atm]

ok thats great thanks. dont fancy removing tails without removing fuse first so will do it that way.

why would i need to isolate the CU first. is it not isolated when i pull the main fuse.

Also sm1thson what is a "metal cutout" you mentioned please?

appreciate the feedback guys thanks.

 

[rebuke]

While ideally you don't want to be pulling the main fuse at all, you REALLY don't want to be pulling the main fuse with load present, i.e. switch off at the main switch on your CU before pulling it. If you don't do this, you could get an almighty bit of arcing when you remove the fuse!

 

[plugwash]

why would i need to isolate the CU first. is it not isolated when i pull the main fuse.

To minimmise the risk of arcing. Fuseholders are not generally designed to be pulled under load.

Also sm1thson what is a "metal cutout" you mentioned please?

an old one where the body made of metal rather than plastic and the fuseholder is generally either ceramic or some very old and crappy plastic. I would STRONGLY advise agasint interfering with such a cutout in any way.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Also sm1thson what is a "metal cutout" you mentioned please?

.

One of these, maybe?

Untitled

• Taylortwocities
• 4 Feb 2009
• 2