(NEEDS FURTHER EDITING)
Hi all - finally I have managed to upload the final result of my first ever wooden floor laid by yours trully. I may be in danger of sounding proud of my work, so let me assure you now that I am not. Mistakes have been made but I remain positive regarding the entire experience and have taken much away from it. Ill summarise my do's and dont's after a few little pics illustrating the outcome of my labour. Here are some images of the laid floor excluding skirting and beading etc. My achilles heal was in the alignment of rows. The photos dont illustrate this but i do have slight gaps between some boards indicative of an imperfect alignment between rows. In one row a gap of 1.3mm is clearly visible and makes me severly kick myself ( how i missed it i never know ) - take your time!
I found the experience very enjoyable and is definately do-able for any DIY'ER, however patience is of the utmost importance. However first things first, do your research. Gauge the kind of tools, materials, glue as well as online expertise required to lay the type of floor you desire. I spent a few days trawling the websites and reading about the recommended ways of laying wooden floor. What I tended to do was to group the documents that had good content overlap especially those from suppliers.
Given an introduction by research the next best thing is to read similar threads in this forum. I read a couple of good threads regarding laying wooden floor onto a existing wooden sub-floor. This is the specific problem I had to solve and will constrain my ramble to this specific case.
To begin, I wanted to lay wooden floor over an existing wooden floorboard sub floor. This floor was not 100% level and had gaps exposing the ventilation cavity under the house. I posted a thread asking where I should be begin. I got replies from two popular guys who know about wooden flooring which mostly agreed with the existing material i had read. In my case i needed to lay a 2nd sub-floor of a 5.5mm WBP plywood over existing floor to stabilise and reduce its deviation in it vertical plane. Once laid the floor seemed much more stabil with less flex to it. I then chose a method for installation of the new floor. As far as i can tell there were 3 methods of doing this: 1) Secret nail, 2) Glue to subfloor and 3) Float. At this point I took the decision to float the floor since this was the simplist approach for a novice DIY'ER but by no means the best method. I like the idea of floating the floor since only the basic tools are required and the entire floor can move as one during changable environental conditions, which apparently it will do. I also wanted to reduce noise and invested in some green underlay tiles (B&Q). These were 7mm thick and again, suppossidly reduce floor deviation in the vertical plane. With a floating floor in mind I ordered 20sq meteres of 120mm oak floor from MFI - In hind-site i should have checked about manufacturer warranties relating to floating the stuff - DOH!
Organisation was key as well as preperation! For preperation all radiators, and existing skirting was removed from the room. The room was swept and 2-boxes of the new wood opened. The tools which I used were: sawing bench, jigsaw, veneer saw, adjustable square, level, many pencils, spacers, knocking block, wooden mallet, glue (water-based), ruler, tape measure, hand brush and my mits!
Preperation involved laying a row of the underlay followed by marking out a straight line for the first row of planks. All subsequent rows follow this so any slight angular variation of a straight line will be magnified in subsequent rows. Therefore, getting the first 1 or two rows PERFECTLY straight is imperative. Unfortunately, i did not get a perfect line and paid the price through mental torture and anguish later. I laid the rows starting from the longest wall corner where both tongues of the planks would neighbour. Running along my line i would glue new board into the row applying the glue to the grooves of each new plank. At the end of each row (as well as begining ) each board is marked such that when cut a 12mm gap remains between the board and the wall. Continuing laying of each new row eventually results in your new floor. New underlay tiles were laid in rows when required.
If I could do it all again I would ensure a straight row layout ( perfect ) of all planks and take more time in the job to obtain a higher level of perfection.