Leak in new brick and block building

[pfm401]

Please see below. There seems to be a DPC at 2 and 4 courses - see internal photo. I’m sure that in at least 2 joints they’re at the vertical joints between 2nd course of bricks ie not caused by the slab. I’m not saying what you’re saying isn’t right just maybe more than one explanation.

I was told there was a DPM under the slab as I asked if I could store things on the floor. Looking at the DPC I don’t think there’s any way that it can be lapped to the membrane under the slab as the DPC is just between the brick courses.

I’m thinking of getting someone to have a look, do surveyors do this sort of thing? I worry another builder will use the immortal phrase “It’ll cost you” which it may well do but I want it to be the right thing to do!!

And with the promised photos (sorry!)

 

[pfm401]

Please see below. There seems to be a DPC at 2 and 4 courses - see internal photo. I’m sure that in at least 2 joints they’re at the vertical joints between 2nd course of bricks ie not caused by the slab. I’m not saying what you’re saying isn’t right just maybe more than one explanation.

I was told there was a DPM under the slab as I asked if I could store things on the floor. Looking at the DPC I don’t think there’s any way that it can be lapped to the membrane under the slab as the DPC is just between the brick courses.

I’m thinking of getting someone to have a look, do surveyors do this sort of thing? I worry another builder will use the immortal phrase “It’ll cost you” which it may well do but I want it to be the right thing to do!!

And with the promised photos (sorry!!)

 

[Charlie George]

Single skin buildings will never be 100% water proof, especially when the outside ground level is above the internal level, a solution to improve the situation could be to raise the internal floor to DPC level with a membrane under the concrete.

 

[^woody^]

Simplest thing is to coat the exterior face of those blues and the joints with a clear water repellent and hope that's the issue. Use a cheap silicone product such as "Thompsons" and if that works, use a better silane product in a few years when the initial treatment wears.

If it's moisture coming up, that's more difficult and you'll need to coat the internal face (and the floor/joint) with a waterproofing/ tanking product such as Supaprufe or RIW.

 

[catlad]

Some of your photo's show some of the joints that haven't been struck which would help.

 

[Deleted member 292770]

wait until the winter comes with driving rain.
Should be cavity wall if you wanted it bone dry .