Leaving engine running without keys in

Maybe the OP want's to install a starter button, and pretend the van is a f1 car? Kits are available on ebay..
I once had a SeriesII Landrover where the started ignition switch failed, wired up push button started (modified electric window switch). Can't explain but just loved firing it up from a button on the dash :D

jetex ... thanks for the explanation, I take it a permanent magnet automotive alternator would be rather unusual?

pompeyal said:
.... maybe our friend requires this for his turbo protection..
Not on an old Berlingo van.

johnD
Winters on the way, van often iced up when I leave work, fire the van up 5 mins early, remove keys, lock van. By the time I return engine warm enough to start blowing hot air. Private property so no "Quitting" offence. Could also point steering towards wall, therefor any nutted breaking in to drive off, steering lock on, it would only get two yards and highly unlikely to be a danger to others.
 
Sponsored Links
Wouldn't it be easier to just get another key cut - one for ignition, one for door?

And hope the locked doors are enough to put off any would be tea leaves.
 
So what does a regulator exist for?

Machine sensed alternators are used in conjunction with external regulators, that's why if you spin them without being connected to a circuit, they will be damaged. Google 'machine sensed alternators', and you will find all the info you need.
 
So what does a regulator exist for?

Machine sensed alternators are used in conjunction with external regulators, that's why if you spin them without being connected to a circuit, they will be damaged. Google 'machine sensed alternators', and you will find all the info you need.

No that's a good explaination. Regarding an earlier post regarding starting the vehicle, to enable it to defrost, there are alarm systems available to remote start the vehicle, so it nicely warmed up for when you ate your brekkie etc..

Fords anti-ice windscreen is really cool, like a rear heated window, but with microfine wires, defrosts a screen in 30 seconds, but because Ford patented it, nobody else uses it..
 
Sponsored Links
Swap the berlingo for a 1990s Ford Escort - If there was a heavy enough load on the electrics (eg headlamps + rear fog lamps + screen heater + wipers + heater blower , or in other words, a typical British winter morning), the engine continued to run after the key was removed until at least one of the accessories was switched off.
 
My company vehicle has an electronic anti theft system fitted. You press a button, and then you can take the keys out of the ignition and the engine will continue to run. You cannot steal the vehicle because firstly, the steering is locked, and secondly, when you take the handbrake off the engine cuts out, and the alarm goes off. My vehicle needs to have the engine running to be able to use certain equipment that we use for our job. This immobiliser system is manufactured by a company called Maple Electronics.
 
There is always the argument about leaving the engine running for a few minutes after you've stopped to allow the turbo to cool down slowly and not cause damage to the bearings, almost surprised this option isn't built in on turboed vehicals
 
There is always the argument about leaving the engine running for a few minutes after you've stopped to allow the turbo to cool down slowly and not cause damage to the bearings, almost surprised this option isn't built in on turboed vehicals

I don't see running the turbo such an issue on diesel vehicles, whereas petrol turbos, mostly modified, seem to require extra running down time?

I do recall in the user manual of my TD car, that it said, after a long journey, don't switch off the car immediately, but always forgot..

Or is it that those with petrol powered cars with turbos, have a better bhp response by fiddling with them, as oppsosed a diesel, but then buy extra kit, such as turbo timers, as well as their dump valves, and waste gates?
 
From what I can remember turbos run at higher rmp's than the engine and so drain of oil quicker being hotter. This causes the turbo to run short of lubricant and thus potential for damage to the bearings, but as you say you forget I to be honest rarely bother and I suspect very few people let their engines cool down on tickover :oops:
 
From what I can remember turbos run at higher rmp's than the engine and so drain of oil quicker being hotter. This causes the turbo to run short of lubricant and thus potential for damage to the bearings, but as you say you forget I to be honest rarely bother and I suspect very few people let their engines cool down on tickover :oops:

Oh definately, turbos run up at speeds of 20,000 rpm, or so. I believe all my diesel powered cars had some turbo issues, when they were close to being replaced, as they used to drink oil/chuck out smoke. But they were company cars, so hey ho! Never had a petrol turbo car.
 
If your van is on the drive, do what I have done.

16A ceeform power inlet under back bumper.
inside car I have a small CU and a 13A socket.

fan heater goes in this in the winter on a timer.

was originally installed for running a freezer whilst camping....
 
There is always the argument about leaving the engine running for a few minutes after you've stopped to allow the turbo to cool down slowly and not cause damage to the bearings, almost surprised this option isn't built in on turboed vehicals

I ran high and standard turbo.It's a waste of time.
If you have driven that hard till you come to a stop the Turbo bearing is the least of your worries.
I was happy to track mine hard with just a couple of warm down lap then switch off.
Idling does not always help can be worse as at idle the oil pressure is lower so does not provide the same oil flow as even a small increase in rpm plus the rest will suffer heat soak as no air flow through the engine bay.
I always made sure the last bit of a journey was a bit slower and if i was forced to stop that quick i did not worry as it was not often
Same principle on "warming up the car by sitting their" best to drive of straight away but keep everything gentle that way everything warms up together( nice warm engine but cold brake gearbox diffs etc)
 
I don't see running the turbo such an issue on diesel vehicles, whereas petrol turbos, mostly modified, seem to require extra running down time?

Or is it that those with petrol powered cars with turbos, have a better bhp response by fiddling with them, as oppsosed a diesel, but then buy extra kit, such as turbo timers, as well as their dump valves, and waste gates?

The difference between petrol and diesel turbo is size( flow rate)
a petrol in general is designed to flow most air at a higher RPM as that is where the power is in a petrol.
Where as a diesel has a lower power band so is designed to run max flow at a lower rpm.
the turbo could be the exactly same in both cars but the max flow may be at 3000rpm on the derv and 6000rpm in the petrol by changing the impeller in the exhaust.
Neither require less or more run down time it just " this is modified so must require it" mentality

the Turbo mods for power can go on for a while on the inlet a smaller impeller will reduce the air into the engine so power drops but increasing the exhaust impeller will increase rpm so high flow but it can the be spinning to fast always a fine line
 
On the subject of running engines after arrival "to protect the turbo": I used to see adverts for turbo timers in the tuning press and wondered "why don't they just install an electric oil pump and keep that running for x-minutes after shutdown?"

I've even seen cars fitted with expensive dry sump systems that have a turbo timer integrated. You've spent £20K on engine mods, will a £100 oil pump kill you? :LOL:

Running a tuned car on idle is also likely to knacker the catalytic converter, unless it's been removed.
 
As it's on private land, I'd get an electric block heater. Run this off a timer and you don't have to go to the van twice. Cheaper than fuel+duty and saves fuel by avoiding cold starts.
 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top