LED 12 W ES Bulbs

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Need a couple of bright but warm LED ES bulbs and have to buy online. However, am a bit confused about wattage equivalents having found 3 different 12w LED bulbs with equivalents of 70w, 100w and 125w respectively! Can someone enlighten [no pun intended :) ] me please. As I said above I want warm white bright ES bulbs. Thank you.
 
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Lumens is the real measure of light - the higher the 'lm' number the more light it produces. Look to see if you can see that number.

With reference to your question and the information you currently have,
- All the bulbs are using 12W of power to make them illuminate (light up).
- But rather than say how much light they are producing in lumens, they are comparing them to an old incandescent bulb, (which used to produce more light the more Watts they used).
- They are doing this to make it simple - but it is so simple it can confuse.

But as we only have your 'W' numbers, lookinhg at your example,
-the first 12W bulb produces as much light equivalent to an old 70W incandescent bulb
-the 2nd 12W bulb produces as much light equivalent to an old 100W incandescent bulb
-the 3rd 12W bulb produces as much light equivalent to an old 120W incandescent bulb

So
-The 1st bulb is the dimmest (although in this case still bright).
-The 3rd bulb is the brightest.
-The 3rd bulb produces almost twice as much light as the first bulb, with both only needing 12W of electrical power to do so.
-The 3rd bulb is the most efficient of teh three.

BUT.... (and this is a big but) to make the 3rd bulb the brightest using the same power (12W) it is likely that its LEDs are being run hotter/harder to make them brighter. So it is likely (if they have not considered removing the heat) that the 3rd bulb will fail first.
“The flame that burns Twice as bright burns half as long.” ― Lao Tzu, Te Tao Ching

SFK
 
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If you want bright bulbs, I think that you need to be looking at the lumens given off, rather than just rely on the wattage.
 
Bare in mind, often less reputable suppliers and manufacturers will lie, or sometimes they're just clueless, about wattage, incandescent equivalent, lumens, and even voltage!
 
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A tungsten bulb could be designed for long life or high output, the long life bulb was often called rough service. Also the pearl coating on bulbs helped spread the light, as did using a translucent shade, for some reason the government decided we should only have rough service and not have the pearl coating, but it means there is no real standard output for tungsten bulbs.

Also we did not only have tungsten, the fluorescent tube has been around for a long time. And again vast changes in the visible light output, mainly down to the coating used, but also the control the wire wound ballast was very voltage dependent, so a tube marked as 58 watt can draw 75 watt due to slight over voltage. With an electronic ballast it used less power and produced more light so a 58 watt tube could give out anywhere between 50 and 95 lumen per watt, so up to 5500 lumen.

So to compare a LED to old type bulbs leaves a massive range.

The major problem however is direction, with a pearl tungsten bulb the light shines even past the connection cap, but with an LED it tends to aim all light away from the cap. So same bulb shining up at a white ceiling or down on a dark floor will light the room very differently even with same lumen output.

When I changed from single 100 watt tungsten to LED to get the spread I had to change the fitting so now 8 x 6 watt LED, the light is better, it was not really good enough with a single bulb, but the conversion simply does not work, neither does what it looks like, last house I swapped from 10 x 8 watt CFL to 10 x 3 watt LED and it looked far brighter, but could no longer read with the light, and had to move to 10 x 5 watt LED.

So although in theory the lumen is what matters in practice it does not work. In each room where I have gone from tungsten to LED I have needed to change the fitting so I can have multiple bulbs.
 
general comments you need the lummins out put 1350=100w normal bulb
a bulb with a say 185 - 250v input voltage [smaller range] will tend to use less electric for the same light output as a say 85v- 253v input bulb
bulbs from non uk sources can be unreliable but cheaper if on ebay more than 3 days tend to be hongkong even iff suggested as having a uk email and address
and be aware off import duty and tax if a large order off perhaps £50+ pounds
 
A good 60 W Incandescent lamp gave off about 800 lm (lumens)
A good 75 W Incandescent lamp gave off about 1000 lm.

"Warm" light can be anything from about 2700 K (Kelvin) to 3300 K. (See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature )
In my opinion 2700 K is too yellow and I would not use anything less than 3000 K for a "warm" light.
However, I now prefer lamps with a "colour temperature" of about 4000 K
 
Thanks for the advice given in your replies guys - I’ve read and re-read all of them 3 or 4 times. And if I’ve got it right, the very first sentence of the very first reply quoted below, tells me how to go about finding the bulbs I need. Time will tell. Thank you all again.

Lumens is the real measure of light - the higher the 'lm' number the more light it produces. Look to see ifyou can see that number.
 
a bulb with a say 185 - 250v input voltage [smaller range] will tend to use less electric for the same light output as a say 85v- 253v input bulb
That does not seem to follow, a LED chip is a current device, and can easy have thermal runaway, so we need to use a driver, these can be a simple capacitor or a complex pulse width modulating chip. The simple devices tend to have a low voltage range, but the PWM chip can have a massive range. So a colour changing wifi controlled lamp can have 100 lumen per watt, but the simple dim-able lamp can be down to 75 lumen per watt. As the colour changing lamp has a PWM chip.

However the simple lamps do seem to last longer, although hard to say, as to date think around 3 LED bulb/tube failures, one today, and all three of the failures were short lived lamps, one a day, (although fixed) one 2 months, and one a year, both the latter used PWM chips, I would say most my lamps have lasted well, and I do go for cheap lamps. Son however has had over 50% failure rate in the kitchen, odd same kitchen where the LED replacement for fluorescent failed for me. So maybe an arcing switch?

I wish I could explain why some bulbs last years and years and others have a short life, I have wondered about spikes on supply, and if the SPD helps? With tungsten at £2 a assorted pack of 10 we did not really worry if one had a short life, at £8 a bulb for colour changing GU10 when it fails one is more bothered, and the wifi controlled light switches also have it seems a short life.

But the major problem is be it GU10, BA22d, E27, or E14 the angle of the light from the LED is not the same as the tungsten so there is no way to compare. Same applies with compact fluorescent lamps (CFL) as well. I was lucky, I got 10 LED lamps for my last house and they were not bright enough, but mothers house the rooms were smaller, so my bulbs when into mothers house, and I got larger bulbs for mine. However I still have a draw full of bulbs.

I looked at this house and the single 100 watt bulb was not really bright enough to start with, so really wanted to fit some sort of chandelier and so have three 60 watt bulbs with tungsten, or 12 watt LED, but most the chandeliers seem to use E14 (SES) and then 6 watt seems to be the limit, we found an 8 bulb chandelier but it is heavy, so also fitted plug in ceiling rose, so all wired up on the floor, then lifted up and plugged in, but we spent just shy of £200 on one room to convert to LED, and we then found some visitors hit their head on the lamps so furniture arranged so you do not naturally walk under the light, and we still have up-lighters in the room to supplement the lighting.

I realise why when we moved in all tungsten quartz halogen lights, up stairs we have put in two extra ceiling lights, and have another waiting to be fitted. And at last the rooms don't look as if lit by TocH candles.
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or a complex pulse width modulating chip.

Some of these chips treat the LED elements very badly and hence the LED elements have a sort life. Triple the rated current for 25% of the time will give an average current less than the rated current. The element produces pulses of light that are approximately twice the rated brightness which the human eye see as continuous light.

Hence a lamp in which the driver pulses high current pulses through he LED looks very efficient. The high current pulses causes migration of atoms through the semiconductor layers in the LED element and this degrades the LED element much faster than the rated constant current would.
 
i have only gone by visual observation as in rated output and actual visual apearence off brightness compared to actual input wattage
this was done with several different makes/styles / bulbs and a plug in meter and often output and input are different as in rated at 12w actual consumption 9w some bulbs are marked as 2.4w but actually consume 1.6
all the bulbs initially where from h/k sources but recently toolstation and they are bang on as 12w output 12.8w input 175-250v
i was so convinced off the reduced energy consumption that i havend bought a full range bulb [85-260v]for perhaps 10 years so may have moved on in the mean time and be less input output difference :?:
any way as i say its judged by which seems to give the most light for the rated wattage so i decide if the extra say 10% light output is worth the extra 20%[10-12w](y)
 
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We were tasked with testing flashing an over driven LED in Uni, we used a 555 timer to flash them, they looked to the human eye brighter, but the lux meter showed they were not. Also I have looked at the room and thought that is a lot brighter, but when I tried to read found I could not read due to not enough light but I could read with the lights that were in before.

So it seems the human eye is no good at judging light, now I look at the camera settings to work out which lamp is brightest.
 
i think we are both off an age when the first real ebay offering where corn led bulbs very very inefficient at lighting a room but at around 6w and about £20+ where a start :LOL:
 
Rated at 2.4 Watts and consuming 1.6 VA, which could be due to the lamp having a non zero power factor.
With a non zero power factor the VA would be larger than watts.

If the watts is larger than the VA as in this example it is due to lies, nothing more.
 

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