LED switch on extractor fan

[theretrophoenix]

Again replying to sureitsoff. The fan clicks on & off itself due to humidity levels (our house is brick & lime built in 1896. It has lime plaster walls too, so it gets quite high humidity levels). It keeps going until it decides to stop, then the timer kicks in & keeps it on for another 15 minutes. This is functioning fine & just as it should. The switch is there in case me or my Mrs wants to put it on for whatever reason. When we switch it off, again the timer will kick in & it will continue to run for a further 15 minutes.

Ah, OK, so the little blue wire on the back of the switch connected to the empty neutral terminals just needs to be linked with the wago connector with the neutral wires. Is that correct, or should I join the neutral wires in the back of the switch rather than in that wago connector? I'd guess both methods would be the same & I'll have to open it up again to see if the LED wire is removeable. When you confirm which is best, or if either of these methods will work I'll give it a go & see if it works. Thank you for your advice.

EFLimpudence if I did that, then I'd lose the kill switch labeled fan isolator (yes I know that the fused spur does the same thing, so I have two kill switches), but I can reach the fan isolator & not the spur. I need a ladder to reach the spur, but can reach the isolator swich on tip toes. The switch is easily accessable. Also, if I sell the house, it will be clear to whoever buys it what each of these switches are for. I also need (due to my autism) to have things match other things in the house, so wouldn't be happy to ditch the fan isolator. I think sureitsoff's solution is the way to go for me, but thank you for taking the time to offer your advice.

I appreciate everyone who has given their valuable time to answer my questions. Thank you all. I'll post a pic when the LED is working.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Ah, OK, so the little blue wire on the back of the switch connected to the empty neutral terminals just needs to be linked with the wago connector with the neutral wires. Is that correct, or should I join the neutral wires in the back of the switch rather than in that wago connector? I'd guess both methods would be the same & I'll have to open it up again to see if the LED wire is removeable. When you confirm which is best, or if either of these methods will work I'll give it a go & see if it works. Thank you for your advice.

No Wagos or other connectors needed. Use the switch terminals.

EFLimpudence if I did that, then I'd lose the kill switch labeled fan isolator (yes I know that the fused spur does the same thing, so I have two kill switches), but I can reach the fan isolator & not the spur. I need a ladder to reach the spur, but can reach the isolator swich on tip toes. The switch is easily accessable.

Put whichever switch you decide to use where you can reach it.

Also, if I sell the house, it will be clear to whoever buys it what each of these switches are for.

No it won't. The isolator is unnecessary.

I also need (due to my autism) to have things match other things in the house, so wouldn't be happy to ditch the fan isolator. I think sureitsoff's solution is the way to go for me, but thank you for taking the time to offer your advice.

Ok.

 

[theretrophoenix]

OK guys, I've had a look & it appears the LED wires in the rear of the switch can not be removed from the switch without disasembling the whole switch & I don't wish to break it.

So just tried putting both wago connected neutrals into N1 neutral terminal in the back of the switch & the LED does not illuminate but it operates normally.

Putting neutrals into N1 & N2 on rear of switch, the LED works, but fan only operates on/off (because the neutral for the permanent live has now been hijacked by the switched live).

Tried using a 5 block wago, 1 empty, the 2 neutral cables, 1 in to the box 1 out of the box to the fan & additional 2 neutral cables connected to N1 & N2 on the back of the switch & the circuit tripped.

So I've restored the wiring back where I started.

It appears to me that the neutral is shared by both live wires. There's a permanent live which therefore needs a permanent neutral, so if this neutral is instead routed through the switch, it will only allow the flow of electricity when the switch is in the 'on' position. Hence why it only operates as on/off fan when wired in this configuration.

I'm starting to think that getting this LED to illuminate will be impossible.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

did you try both neutrals in to N2

 

[theretrophoenix]

I didn't. Would you expect that to have a different outcome?

 

[Sureitsoff?]

i would expect the led to be on the load side terminals ie only lights when the switch is on. if it was connected to the supply side then it would be always on
edit found a pic on the screwfix site and the led looks like it is across L2 and N2 but I cant post it here as its the wrong format

 

[theretrophoenix]

OK, I'll give it a go tomorrow. It's dark here & I don't mess with the electrics when it's dark in case anything blows. I'd rather do it in daylight hours.

 

[theretrophoenix]

I just looked on the screwfix website. It was the N2 terminal I had used, not N1. I hadn't read the printed text on the back & assumed the terminal on the top was N1, not N2. So, both neutrals were placed into N2 (not N1 as I previously stated) as this is where the small wires were. I have not tried N1 at the bottom as the small wires don't appear to be connected there.

 

[securespark]

View attachment 316891

I also said the 3P iso was not needed, but got ignored!

I agree with EFLI. Put the switch you need to use within easy reach without a ladder!

 

[EFLImpudence]

There's a lot of ignoring in this thread.

 

[theretrophoenix]

Sorry securespark. I didn't ignore you on purpose. I just got focused on the other two guys responses. I'm sorry if you felt you were left out. It wasn't an intentional snub. But I thank you for taking time to reply.

 

[theretrophoenix]

Update. Sorry if this isn't a timely response, but I've been somewhat busy today. So yesterday having tried the various methods listed above, they didn't work in this instance, so I've decided to go with the wiring diagram that EFLIpudence forwarded yesterday. However, I'm not going to do this myself as it'll mean more messing about with it, so I'll ask my electrician to tackle it when I have to call him around next time. I'm not going to call him out just to look at this, but ask him when he's here next time for something or other. I'm shur he'll be able to sort it. No doubt if I show him the diagram he'll know what to do.

So a big thank you to everyone who took the time to help. I appreciate everyone who gave their valuable time to respond to me.

A big thumbs up to you guys.

 

[securespark]

Sorry securespark. I didn't ignore you on purpose. I just got focused on the other two guys responses. I'm sorry if you felt you were left out. It wasn't an intentional snub. But I thank you for taking time to reply.

I'm not too upset.