Levelling the top of studs

[Jupiter01]

I need to put in 10 studs at the same height of an existing one. Once in place, they will have a top timber screwed to them.

The floor is not entirely level.

What’s the easiest way of cutting out these additional studs at the correct height? I have a red laser but don’t thinks it’s much help outdoors.

I’d appreciate any tips on this.

 

[RandomGrinch]

Put in a sole plate, and pack it up level?

 

[foxhole]

Don’t they reach the ceiling?

 

[Jupiter01]

Put in a sole plate, and pack it up level?

Plastic packers?

 

[Jupiter01]

Don’t they reach the ceiling?

It’s for a shed and the rafters will sit on the top plate that will go over these.

 

[RandomGrinch]

Plastic packers?

Yup, broadfix type would probably do, although how out of level are we talking about?

 

[Jupiter01]

Yup, broadfix type would probably do, although how out of level are we talking about?

Tiny. Probably a few mm’s. Was wondering if there’s an easier way to measure and cut the studs so I can smash through it tomorrow.

 

[foxhole]

Fix stud at corners and just level those so top is level and remaining studs can be cut to fit.

 

[Jupiter01]

Fix stud at corners and just level those so top is level and remaining studs can be cut to fit.

The corners are 6 metres apart. How do I level these? A laser level would have been ideal but my dewalt red laser is very poor outdoors.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The corners are 6 metres apart. How do I level these? A laser level would have been ideal but my dewalt red laser is very poor outdoors.

A water level - Lidl, £3.99.

 

[RandomGrinch]

A laser level would have been ideal but my dewalt red laser is very poor outdoors.

Make sure the batteries are new, the screens are clear, and measure up at twilight/early morning.

 

[chirpychippy]

Go and buy a 6 foot spirit level.

Put your sole plate down and fix, put a corner stud in at desired height excluding head plate thickness at the highest point of the sole plate, plumb it and brace it, put another stud in at 1.7 mtrs, plumb it and brace it, then another at 1.7mtrs and so on until you reach the end of the wall.

The corner stud is your Datum, level off of the top of this to your next stud, mark it and cut it square to this line, then onto your next stud and so on.

Put head plate on and fix into studs, set your centers, 400/600 mark and measure stud lengths between head plate and sole plate.

With a 1.7mtr centre the head plate could sag, just plonk the spirit level onto of the head plate to see if it has sagged, say 3mm, add 3mm to stud length. You should end up with a level head plate ready for rafters.

 

[Notch7]

The corners are 6 metres apart. How do I level these? A laser level would have been ideal but my dewalt red laser is very poor outdoors.

Mark it out in the evening when almost dark

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Put your sole plate down and fix, put a corner stud in at desired height excluding head plate thickness at the highest point of the sole plate, plumb it and brace it, put another stud in at 1.7 mtrs, plumb it and brace it, then another at 1.7mtrs and so on until you reach the end of the wall.

Between setting each stud, switch the level, end for end, to help eliminate errors.

 

[Jupiter01]

You should end up with a level head plate ready for rafters

Should I be doubling up the head plate as the rafters will be sitting on this? Or is this not necessary? I am using 63mm CLS for head plate and rafters.