Lifted laminate floor and the subfloor is sodden!!!!

Front garden is lower than dpc. Back garden (grass area) is higher, patio level is slightly lower.


O.k, so on the property / around the property we do have a ground level higher than DPC or actually i should say the concrete base inside the house (DPC will be higher than the subfloor)


A large area? is it just your garden or surrounding property's also?
 
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No just the grass is at a higher level.

The slabs between the grass and the kitchen where I took the photo is just slightly below the thicker mortar line that runs around the bottom if the house. The side of the house again is just slightly lower.

By slightly lower, I am talking 2/3 cm at most

Behind my house is a little estate that was built late 90s.

I have 1 attached neighbour, and 1 detached neighbour.

Neither report having any floor damp issues them selves
 
No just the grass is at a higher level.

The slabs between the grass and the kitchen where I took the photo is just slightly below the thicker mortar line that runs around the bottom if the house. The side of the house again is just slightly lower.

By slightly lower, I am talking 2/3 cm at most


Just to be clear here, im not worried how close to the house your land is. I looked at pics :cool:


Im trying to find out what the surrounding area is like .

Is all the ground within say 100 meters of your property level to your house? Is there a big hill next to you ? your neighbors garden, is it higher?


Im trying to get a picture of teh surrounding area mate .

Truth is you have issues and as 'Tarkett' has suggested, well that is the correct way to sort. But if i can get a full picture of surrounding area we can come up with a method to sort ( i hope)
 
Apologies.

At back of garden is a new ish estate (latte 90s)

Detached neighbour has same sized back garden and is virtually all soil and plants ass he grows veg. Pretty level.

Attached neighbour, same size garden, all grass, slight gradient sloping towards house, but only very slight. Not stepped like mine.

my road is art the top of a hill that slopes down to the river. I am approx 1/4 mile up hill from river.

Land behind is relativly same level and Mt garden.
 
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sounds promising.


Right the truth is that there is a issue (as you know) . First you need to eliminate any leaking pipes.

If leek found then sorted!

If not -

The correct way is to dig up subfloor and install new DPM and then concrete. (please look at building regs to see what is required)


As you are up on a hill the hygroscopic pressure effecting your house should be minimal.

So you can try a surface DPM system (not many that guaranty and to be 100% honest if you read the warranty you dont have one!)

Allow floor to air dry as much as possible.

Clean any old adhesives etc that MAY effect bonding of surface DPM.

Apply surface dpm (you 'should' remove skirts and paint up to DPC also)

Thats it, should be sorted.
 
I'm 90% certain I can rule out pipes.

Cental heating doesn't lose pressure, although there is 1 pipe buried under floor in door way ok kitchen to affected living room.

Looking at service points and where my main inlet water tap is I SE no reason why a Mains water pipe would run through the living room.

both toilets in the house are on the far wall of house, other side of living room side with their waste pipes so can almost certainly rule that out.

So damp can be 95% sure the problem
Out of interest what is the rough cost if digging floor up and relaying?
Its not really an option if there is an alternative as the disruption it would cause would be monumental.

If I dry out slab and cover in surface dpm will that put my walks at any risk if the moisture trying to escape sideways as it won't be able to come up any more?

Also would a polyurethane resin that's used to tank in under ground electric cable work be suitable to use as the surface dpm? Add this stuff is all but certain never to let Watter through?
 
Now everything is removed from the floor, does it dry out normally or does it still show signs of moist?

Looking at the barrier underlayment and the tiles it has been on, it could well be - due to the high air humidity we've been having over late - extensive sweating of the tiles and a tiny breach in the underlayment (at the seam for instance).
 
Now everything is removed from the floor, does it dry out normally or does it still show signs of moist?

Looking at the barrier underlayment and the tiles it has been on, it could well be - due to the high air humidity we've been having over late - extensive sweating of the tiles and a tiny breach in the underlayment (at the seam for instance).


woody, it looks like there has been actual standing water which is far more than you would get from a floor 'sweating' if the subfloor base was dry (below 75% rh) Sweat would be vaporous rather then actual water so a jump in air moister rather than water build up.
 
Dig up a subfloor and replacing for new isn't as bad as it sounds.


1 day work= Room needs to be emptied and skirts removed and old subfloor removed. (working on a 25 sq'm room) The floor will come up in large lumps like paving slabs.

day 2, lay dpm / sand/ concrete etc. This will all be done in one day.


Cost = laborer to uplift and remove old flooring = £50 ?
Skip = £100
Concrete + other bits maybe £700 + labour.

So around £1200 ish?



However dont just go and dig up old floor without confirming what the issue is. A Hygrometer needs to be installed to confirm what the issue is.
 
Dig up a subfloor and replacing for new isn't as bad as it sounds.


1 day work= Room needs to be emptied and skirts removed and old subfloor removed. (working on a 25 sq'm room) The floor will come up in large lumps like paving slabs.

day 2, lay dpm / sand/ concrete etc. This will all be done in one day.


Cost = laborer to uplift and remove old flooring = £50 ?
Skip = £100
Concrete + other bits maybe £700 + labour.

So around £1200 ish?



However dont just go and dig up old floor without confirming what the issue is. A Hygrometer needs to be installed to confirm what the issue is.

Digging up the floor will be my absolute last resort, if no surface dpm can be used and be adequate.
Unless I can twist my insurance companies arm, then they are welcome to do it!

I have a damp company coming over Thursday afternoon to have a look at it all. So hopefully we will have something in concrete then (excuse the pun)

Daz had already suggested a product, are their any other suggestions on what to use if I can go down surface dpm route?

I have unlimited access to polyurethane resin if this is up to the job?

Thanks
 
Dig up a subfloor and replacing for new isn't as bad as it sounds.


1 day work= Room needs to be emptied and skirts removed and old subfloor removed. (working on a 25 sq'm room) The floor will come up in large lumps like paving slabs.

day 2, lay dpm / sand/ concrete etc. This will all be done in one day.


Cost = laborer to uplift and remove old flooring = £50 ?
Skip = £100
Concrete + other bits maybe £700 + labour.

So around £1200 ish?



However dont just go and dig up old floor without confirming what the issue is. A Hygrometer needs to be installed to confirm what the issue is.

Digging up the floor will be my absolute last resort, if no surface dpm can be used and be adequate.
Unless I can twist my insurance companies arm, then they are welcome to do it!

I have a damp company coming over Thursday afternoon to have a look at it all. So hopefully we will have something in concrete then (excuse the pun)

Daz had already suggested a product, are their any other suggestions on what to use if I can go down surface dpm route?

I have unlimited access to polyurethane resin if this is up to the job?

Thanks


what Daz suggested is fine. But a lot of ins and outs on guaranty. Basically you dont have one as the surface dpm wont fail but your subfloor might. Your subfloor has nothing to do with the product applied.

The Surface DPM is only as good as the subfloor you apply it to. However with what you have told us you SHOULD be o.k.

As for the urethane dpm you are talking about , i will guess it dries to a rubbery protection? This is no good when you have to stick something to it.
 
Yes dries rubbery.

How about if I used a surface dpm paint/epoxy, then use the polyurethane resin as a final top layer of dpm protection, to then lie the underlay and laminate on to of?

Is there any product(s) you would suggest?

If I have no dpm at the moment, would the concrete slab naturally sick moisture up to Mimick my problem, or would it be due to say a crack in the slab?

Thanks.
 
Sorry i wont recommend a Surface DPM to be used over a subfloor with 'rising damp' . To many issues out there so wont commit myself.


Forget the urethane system. You will cause issues for any changes it the future or new owners .


As for your slab, think of it like a sponge. You drop a sponge in water and it will slowly absorb moister.

With all the rain at moment your subfloor is being feed a large amount of water. With no DPM/not working dpm it is sucking this moister up.

Like i say tho, get a pro in to test the subfloor to see whats going on. Not someone with a 'pin meter' a hygrometer is needed and will take a few days to get a idea of whats going on.
 
Now everything is removed from the floor, does it dry out normally or does it still show signs of moist?

Looking at the barrier underlayment and the tiles it has been on, it could well be - due to the high air humidity we've been having over late - extensive sweating of the tiles and a tiny breach in the underlayment (at the seam for instance).


woody, it looks like there has been actual standing water which is far more than you would get from a floor 'sweating' if the subfloor base was dry (below 75% rh) Sweat would be vaporous rather then actual water so a jump in air moister rather than water build up.
We've seen cases where sweating of tiles, during a period of high air humidity caused such an effect.
Before you tell someone to dig out the whole floor I would suggest he takes a more cautious approach
 

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