Ok so I am old and forgetful, but here is the problem,
I had a bulb blow in one of my landing lights. It is an E27 ( Edison thread) holder. When removing the bulb the glass came away from the threaded connector. So I isolated the circuit at the CP and tried to remove the offending bulb base, only to find that is was sort of welded to the holder. Not good. So I thought I would replace said crappy E27 with a GU10 Halogen lamp holder, better light anyway. So I removed the old E27 and found some fairly hard baked cable for about 2 inches back. Suggests heat wouldn't you agree?. Anyway I cut supply cable back to reveal normal soft Insulation and pliable copper cores. Wired in new holder, checked with my DVM for connectivity, lamp out and in. Fitted brand new GU10 50W and switched back on. On switch on the circuit tripped immediately, suggesting short. Isolated circuit at CP, closed switch ( double sure) and removed lamp and holder. Rewired, refitted, same result. So tried circuit with new holder and no lamp. Circuit stable and operating across all other lamps on Upstairs Lighting. Tried another GU10 lamp ( new ) and it tripped immediately on switch on. Isolated ( again) removed lamp and holder and fitted another lamp and holder ( both new) with same result.
What I don't get is that there is obviously a short for it to collapse the circuit so fast, yet it is only present when there is a load, but we know the load device is a good unit, so it suggests that the short occurs ONLY with a load.
Only thing I can come up with is that the removal of the original unit has created this condition as it was working up until the bulb went.
Ergo, could this be a "proximty short" in the wiring that only occurs when the current flows , thus suggesting a bared wire within the sheath that is arcing when the current is present?
Any ideas ?
I had a bulb blow in one of my landing lights. It is an E27 ( Edison thread) holder. When removing the bulb the glass came away from the threaded connector. So I isolated the circuit at the CP and tried to remove the offending bulb base, only to find that is was sort of welded to the holder. Not good. So I thought I would replace said crappy E27 with a GU10 Halogen lamp holder, better light anyway. So I removed the old E27 and found some fairly hard baked cable for about 2 inches back. Suggests heat wouldn't you agree?. Anyway I cut supply cable back to reveal normal soft Insulation and pliable copper cores. Wired in new holder, checked with my DVM for connectivity, lamp out and in. Fitted brand new GU10 50W and switched back on. On switch on the circuit tripped immediately, suggesting short. Isolated circuit at CP, closed switch ( double sure) and removed lamp and holder. Rewired, refitted, same result. So tried circuit with new holder and no lamp. Circuit stable and operating across all other lamps on Upstairs Lighting. Tried another GU10 lamp ( new ) and it tripped immediately on switch on. Isolated ( again) removed lamp and holder and fitted another lamp and holder ( both new) with same result.
What I don't get is that there is obviously a short for it to collapse the circuit so fast, yet it is only present when there is a load, but we know the load device is a good unit, so it suggests that the short occurs ONLY with a load.
Only thing I can come up with is that the removal of the original unit has created this condition as it was working up until the bulb went.
Ergo, could this be a "proximty short" in the wiring that only occurs when the current flows , thus suggesting a bared wire within the sheath that is arcing when the current is present?
Any ideas ?