Little help with 3 gang switch wiring

[winston1]

I was starting to doubt myself after some of the posts with the 13a socket on the lighting circuit and wondering if I should just take a feed form the sockets below the cabinets up the wall into the new single sockets and just ignore the wiring the building left to the switch!

Well that would be a better way of doing it. Or else change the power supplies on the hue lights for ones with wire ends rather wall worts.

 

[go3asy]

Just to clarify the lights can't be hardwired: https://images.philips.com/is/image/PhilipsConsumer/7190155PH-D2P-global-001?$jpglarge$&wid=1250

 

[winston1]

The switched will be permanently on to be fair. Rarely switched off, the whole kitchen is the Philips hue system which is controlled by a wireless switch mounted right beside the actual light switch. The hue lights dont like having the power switched off to them they resat back tot he 100% white setting on all bulbs and the kitchen is like a floodlit stadium.

Well the kitchen is a work room so you need good lighting. Can't really see why you would need to dim it anyway.

 

[Taylortwocities]

There really is no pleasing you, is there

 

[go3asy]

Jeeeeez...

Back on point, the multi metre and socket tester a wise purchase then? As for the different setup to my neighbour since everything working I'm assuming leave as is and just connect up the new wires and forgot about what's not broken... still curious as to why I appear to have 2 live feeds to the switch lol

 

[Taylortwocities]

still curious as to why I appear to have 2 live feeds to the switch lol

Need a better picture. But probably, there are two lives on the switch because one is live feed in and the other may be the live feed out to another switch or light.
Thats what you need your multimeter for. Don't like to guess with electricity. A test is better than a guess. Just thought of that, do you like it?

Personally, I don't see the point of getting a socket tester, as all you'll be doing with your sockets is checking that the line, neutral and earths are there and in place. You can do that from the back of the socket.

 

[go3asy]

Need a better picture. But probably, there are two lives on the switch because one is live feed in and the other may be the live feed out to another switch or light.
Thats what you need your multimeter for. Don't like to guess with electricity. A test is better than a guess. Just thought of that, do you like it?

Personally, I don't see the point of getting a socket tester, as all you'll be doing with your sockets is checking that the line, neutral and earths are there and in place. You can do that from the back of the socket.

The only other light switch in the kitchen is at the patio doors for the outside light which I would have thought the neighbours would be wired the same way. What would I be looking for with the millimetre?

 

[Taylortwocities]

first will be to test behind that switch and find out if my suspecions are correct, regarding the line connections, and if the blue wires are actually neutral.
Then wire up the switch and test is LN&E appear at the two connection plates when the switch is on.

HAve you used a multimeter before?

 

[go3asy]

first will be to test behind that switch and find out if my suspecions are correct, regarding the line connections, and if the blue wires are actually neutral.
Then wire up the switch and test is LN&E appear at the two connection plates when the switch is on.

HAve you used a multimeter before?

In a car yeaaaaars ago but never properly

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If not us, then who?
If not here, then where?
If not now, then when?

As a result I live in a new build ...

As a result of what?