Load bearing wall acro prop question?

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I'm taking out approx 3m of load bearing wall (doing the work myself with a little help.) Plans have been drawn up and have spoken to building regs. According to them the lintel I've got would hold a block of flats but when inserting how many acro props should i use on either side of the gap? I was planning on using a scaffold board on either side of the gap with 2 props on each? is this enough? Also how far away from the wall should i put the support? The joists overlap on this wall.

Cheers
 
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W_Axl_Rose said:
...when inserting how many acro props should i use on either side of the gap?
One per two joists, on each side.

I was planning on using a scaffold board on either side of the gap with 2 props on each?
If you do this then please would you hook up a web cam so that we can watch it all fall down?

is this enough?
No.

Also how far away from the wall should i put the support?
As near to the wall as possible but har enough away to allow you to get the RSJ in.
 
No. You're being a bit naive.

If you want it from the horse's mouth then you should ask the engineer who did the calculations for the beam.
 
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Depends what you have above the wall and how much you are removing.. If it is just the floor above that sits on the downstairs wall (ie no first floor walls) and you are moving upto joist level then using a timber board placed parallel with the wall and putting acros at regular intervals is fine..
Course if the wall is continuous upstairs and/or there will be a downstand in the wall then you will need to use strongboys or needle the wall, depending on the load.
Using the scaffolding boards to support the wall is a no no (i had to delete the line about softus being correct, just couldnt do it ;). They will flex and allow it to drop a few inches which may make playing marbles upstairs hard when they all roll to the dropped wall.
 
W_Axl_Rose said:
Thanks for your answers. So scaffold boards won't support the joists!?

yes it will suffice, though we use a slightly stockier piece of timber, maybe a full 2" thick.

generally, once the masonry has been removed the only weak point to the wall above is a triangular section of masonry diminishing from the sides of the opening, inward and upwards.

so technically a central prop would probably suffice.

two props either side with a stout timber batten will eat it. fortunately, in your case the joists are acting as needles. piece of cake.

mind you, it would be tragic if your home had not been built correctly, say with straight bonded perps. :eek:
 

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