Loft boarding (with pics)

sometimes new timbers can be laid beside the old ones, and spaced slightly off the old ceiling to prevent bowing. It is easier if you can open up access through the side of the roof. You could push timbers in from a scaffold, all along the eaves.

If you actually want a loft conversion meeting BRs, I should think you'll need a professional design, perhaps from a structural engineer experienced in such work. I don't know how that would compare with the cost of pulling the old roof on and building a new one, which might be quicker.

Cutting timbers in a roof inexpertly can lead to spectacular collapses.

When boarding my own loft I used the longest timbers that I could get through the loft hatch and turn round, but yours is very obstructed. A boarded loft does not have to meet such high standards as a habitable conversion. I also use 2440x600 ply sheets, screwed down, they add more rigidity to the flooring deck than small boards, and I think are stronger than chipboard. It is fairly difficult to get them through a loft hatch. if 2440x1220 are better value, you can cut them outside. Shuttering ply is adequate if cheap.

I am a householder, not a builder.
 
Sponsored Links
sometimes new timbers can be laid beside the old ones, and spaced slightly off the old ceiling to prevent bowing. It is easier if you can open up access through the side of the roof. You could push timbers in from a scaffold, all along the eaves.

If you actually want a loft conversion meeting BRs, I should think you'll need a professional design, perhaps from a structural engineer experienced in such work. I don't know how that would compare with the cost of pulling the old roof on and building a new one, which might be quicker.

Cutting timbers in a roof inexpertly can lead to spectacular collapses.

When boarding my own loft I used the longest timbers that I could get through the loft hatch and turn round, but yours is very obstructed. A boarded loft does not have to meet such high standards as a habitable conversion. I also use 2440x600 ply sheets, screwed down, they add more rigidity to the flooring deck than small boards, and I think are stronger than chipboard. It is fairly difficult to get them through a loft hatch. if 2440x1220 are better value, you can cut them outside. Shuttering ply is adequate if cheap.

I am a householder, not a builder.

Thanks again, really helpful input. I am not really looking for a loft conversion for a room, just want to stick some old sh1t up there out the way. Things like suitcases, camping gear, some kitchen stuff we dont use, etc. So I am half tempted to just select an area and get that boarded. I expect the roof can take the weight of this light storage, if there was a water tank up there before?

That's the main question, can I chuck some boards down and get rid of clutter from downstairs
 
if you want a cheap and not-very-good fix for light storage, you can counterbatten by laying new timbers across your existing joists, screwed down, and ply deck on top of that, screwed down.

It will not increase overall strength, but it will spread the load somewhat and add rigidity. Try to position the weight near the supporting walls, and not in the middle of the span. If the timbers flex, your ceilings will crack or pop their nails. L&P ceilings are particularly prone to falling down.



Clean it out and renew the insulation first.
 
if you want a cheap and not-very-good fix for light storage, you can counterbatten by laying new timbers across your existing joists, screwed down, and ply deck on top of that, screwed down.

It will not increase overall strength, but it will spread the load somewhat and add rigidity. Try to position the weight near the supporting walls, and not in the middle of the span. If the timbers flex, your ceilings will crack or pop their nails. L&P ceilings are particularly prone to falling down.



Clean it out and renew the insulation first.

Thanks mate, really appreciate your help. I think that's what I will do - I've got the CLS for counterbattening, boards (will look at ply) and will spread the weight. Also got a load of knauf insulation to put down, just need to tidy cables up etc, and put a couple of strip lights in for proper lighting. If I am going to go ahead and look at a working room then will get a firm in
 
Sponsored Links
Brief update on this if anyone is interested: I got someone round who knows about this and so I went with a fairly lightweight option of counter-battening and then boarding with loft chipboards. Plus putting new insulation in and tidying everything up. It's not for a room or even really for anyone to be up there apart from getting stuff up/down. Mostly for boxes of kitchen bits, xmas decs, some tool boxes etc. I took a pic last week when I had done about 1/3 of it (seen in this post), and now have done about 50-60% of it, so plenty of storage, planning to carry on and finish it this weekend hopefully
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201111_184518.jpg
    IMG_20201111_184518.jpg
    296.9 KB · Views: 107
  • IMG_20201114_162523.jpg
    IMG_20201114_162523.jpg
    270.5 KB · Views: 109

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top